L'AMOUR DES STAFFIES
MISE À JOUR - 08 11 2016 - Annonce chiots Michonne
Je suis éleveuse de Staffordshire Bull Terriers depuis maintenant 16 ans.
Passionnée de cette race et des chiens en général. J’ai sorti le premier magazine
spécialisé Staffordshire Bull Terrier en France. 4 livres sur le sujet ...
Dans notre élevage, nous proposons "The all purpose dog" (le chien qui peut tout faire). Notre priorité, produire des chiens performants, avec des caractères parfaitement équilibrés, en santé et bien évidemment dans le standard de la race. Nos chiens sont à la fois de très bons chiens de familles, équilibrés avec les enfants et les humains. Des chiens de sport, dynamiques et joyeux.
Etant aussi comportementaliste-éducateur Canin, j'assure un suivi gratuit pour tous les propriétaires de mes chiots, qu'ils aient 2 mois ou 17 ans ;)
T is for tenacity, they´ll never concede,
A is for affection, the love that they give,
F is for faithfulness, as long as they live,
F is for fearsome, which they´ll willingly be,
O is for outstanding, when trouble they see,
R is for reckless, when chasing the ball,
D is for the other dogs, they can´t stand them at all,
S is for safety, you feel when they´re there,
H is for heroic, they don´t easily scare,
I is for impressive, there´s few breeds the same,
R is for ready, whenever they play the "game"
E is for effort, because they´ll always try,
B is for bravery, they´ll fight tooth and eye,
U is for unstinting, in their service to you,
L is for loyalty, only matched by a few,
L is for the life time, that they´ll spend by your side,
T is for the tenderness, that you see in their eyes,
E is for the eternity, that you´ll remember their name,
R is for replacements, that are never the same,
R is for regretting, their shortness off stay
I is for imagine, once they´ve gone away,
E is for earning the love that you´re shown,
R is for remembering, the "Staff" that you own.
1.Exhibitors should not be in too great a hurry to *get there*. Knowledge can be acquired by actual experience and by paying for such. Experience is undoubtedly the best, and by gaining this slowly the desired object is more quickly achieved
2.When starting in the fancy go to someone of repute, state your wants and the price you are prepared to pay. You will be advised honestly and your foundation will be sound.
3.Purchase only good strains
4.Dont go to extremes in size, some judges like big ones, whilst others like to put up little ones, a 34 pound stafford is a safe size
5.Go to shows as often as you can, getting your terriers to show themselves requires great patience. A good terrier will ruin its chances by being aggressive or shy
6.Follow the judging and try to understand it and pick out for yourself the merits and faults in the exhibits
7.Be unscrupulously clean in your kennels. Give your dog plenty of freedom
8.Dont put too much faith in the opinions of your friends, take your dog to a show, enter in one class, you will then get the opinions of an expert. After the judging is over ask the judge his opinion as to the faults and the good points of your dog. You will find he will readily give you his opinion
9.If you intend breeding and have secured a bitch, try mating her with a dog that will correct her faults. Do not think the successful show dog is bound to be more a successful sire, it is much better to mate her to a proved sire, also make sure the dog is sound
10. Feeding is a big item where the general health of the dog is concerned, each owner has his own way as to the feeding of his dog
8 EASY TO REMEMBER TIPS FOR RESPONSIBLE STAFFORD OWNERS
1. Exercise your dog everyday.
Staffies have high energy levels they want to play and run forever the more exercise they get the calmer and better behaved they will be. If you can manage it two good long walks a day is good.
2. Supervise your dog with small children.
This is a must. Small children are often hurt by dogs not out of angry, but because dogs can scratch them, step on them, and otherwise injure them.
3. Always have your dog on a leash in public.
Always have your dog on the lead in public places, they can be nervous and excitable when there are lots of people it is bettter to be safe than sorry.
4. Always supervise your dogs and never allow them to roam free.
Loose dogs are often hurt by cruel people and accidents can happen as well. Always know where your dog is.
5. Spay or Neuter your dog.
Unless you plan on doing something where the dog can not be spayed or neutered get it done. This will reduce accidental breedings and stop roaming males from getting loose.
7. Train your dog.
Take your dog to obedience classes or hire a private trainer to help you train your dog. This is very important for Staffie owners. If you can not control your dog bad things will eventually happen. Get your dog into training as soon as possible.
8. Socialize your dog.
Take your dog to as many places as you can, meet new people and while they are young meet as many other dogs as possible. Socializing your Staffies will help curb any future problems that might occur.
Responsible ownership starts from the time your Staffordshir Bull Terrier comes to live with you. Irresponsible owner's are one of the major causes for all the problems the breed faces today. It's our hope here at Staffordshire Bull Terrier Website we can spread the word and educate more owners to take responsibility for their dogs actions.
In order for things to change, we must change the way we look at our own actions and how they effect the world around us. Until we do that, things will simply stay the way they are right now.
Before the nineteenth century, bloodsports such as bull baiting, bear baiting and cock fighting were common. Bulls bought to market were set upon by dogs as a way of tenderizing the meat and providing entertainment for the spectators; and dog fights with bears, bulls and other animals were often organized as entertainment for both royalty and commoners. Early Bull and Terriers were not bred for the handsome visual specimen of today, rather they were bred for the characteristic known as gameness. The pitting of dogs against bear or bull tested the gameness, strength and skill of the dog. These early "proto-staffords" provided the ancestral foundation stock for the Staffordshire Bull Terrier, the American Pit Bull Terrier with the exception of the American Staffordshire Terrier.
These bloodsports were officially eliminated in 1835 as Britain began to introduce animal welfare laws. Since dogfights were cheaper to organized and far easier to conceal from the law than bull or bear baits, bloodsport proponents turned to pitting their dogs one against another instead. Dog fighting was used as both a bloodsport (often involving gambling) and as an effort to continue to test the quality of their stock. For decades afterwards, dog fighting clandestinely took place in pockets of working-class Britain and America. Dogs were released in a pit, and the last dog still fighting (or occasionally, the last dog surviving) was recognized as the winner. The quality of pluckiness or "gameness" was still highly prized, and dogs that gave up during a fight were reviled as "curs". As an important aside, fighting dogs were often handled in the pit during fights, by both their owners and the judge, so were bred to be as trustworthy with humans as they were aggressive towards other dogs.
It is this nefarious history that gives the Stafford his celebrated temperament, as in the words of the American Kennel Club: "from the past history of the Staffordshire Terrier, the modern dog draws its character of indomitable courage, high intelligence, and tenacity. This, coupled with its affection for its friends, and children in particular, its off-duty quietness and trustworthy stability, makes it a foremost all-purpose dog."
The breed attained UK Kennel Club recognition on 25 May 1935. Much of the groundwork to attain this status can be attributed to Joseph Dunn and Joe Mallan. Dunn and Mallan invited friends to a Stafford fanciers meeting at the Cross Guns Hotel, Cradley Heath, South Staffordshire (a hotel owned and managed by Mallan). About fifty breeders met at the hotel and formed the Original Staffordshire Terrier Club. The name was shortly changed to Staffordshire Terrier Club due to the Bull Terrier Club objecting the use of the word 'original'. Stafford were imported into the US during this time. Since that time the breed has grown to be one of the most popular breeds of dogs with a large representation at the Crufts Dog Show.
In the US many were imported by pit fighters and used in their breeding programs to produce the American Pit Bull Terrier and American Staffordshire Terrier. Many were imported by British nationals who brought their dogs with them or U.S. expatriates who fell in love with the breed in England and brought it home. Eventually through the campaign of many people the Stafford was recognized in the U.S. in 1976. He has a loyal following.
These men, hardy of frame, forgemen, furnacemen and colliers, with no fear of danger, were also able to bear up to and face physical pain without flinching. Many of them displayed great heroism at pit and foundry accidents, a regular feature of their lives. Disasters were not infrequent; There were no Factory Acts to protect them in those days. The hours were long and arduous, in conditions unsuitable for the lowest form of beast, including intense heat or extreme cold and dampness. Emerging in darkness at the end of the day, covered in dirt, grime, and, at times filth, they headed home. Their homes were sparsely furnished and lit by candel and oil lamps. The men of this era had to be tough and strong to survive. Is it any wonder they looked upon dog-fighting and it's fatalities with no qualm?
In many instances, the courage and 'fight' of the Black Country man was his only asset. Men boys and dogs were expected to show courage, gameness and fighting spirit. The manner of meeting death was also important to these men. It was only acceptable to go down fighting; this was as vital as victory......
Illustration de ce texte
Merci à Vincent propriétaire de Duke et Eden ^^
Baiting sports were indeed outlawed in 1835, but to suggest that our breed was in the 'wilderness' until Kennel Club recognition is wrong. The baiting dogs of the time were still kept and admired by those who valued them for their gameness, often using them as outcrosses to other breeds to improve the qualities of these other dogs. These owners were more interested in whether the dog could undertake his task, rather than how he looked. Baiting continued to be participated in well into the late 1800's. However, as it was illegal, large crowds were not encouraged. It was far easier to hold clandestine dog-fights rather than events with larger animals, and these matches would be held inside, often in pubs. In these areas the spectators would have been much closer to the action, and trying to contain an excited 50lb dog would have been difficult. Smaller examples would have been easier to handle and these smaller dogs began to become popular.
Further evidence that baiting continued, is to be found in an 1889 book on the bulldog by Fulton. In it, he writes from memory of a bull-baiting that took place in Greenwich. He describes how Bull-dogs, very different from the ones exhibited at the time, were run at the Bull. One has only to examine old paintings and prints that depicted baiting, etc. They clearly show the dogs that Fulton is describing; very different to Bulldogs but identical to Staffords. Of course these dogs were named according to their main function at the time, Bull dogs. Not all dogs of this type were run at the bull, the pastime cost money and the poorer classes tested their dogs against other dogs.
The qualities that the baiting dogs possessed were ideally suited to all forms of combat and in particular dog-fighting. The 'official' history suggests that this was not so, as the the dog held too much and drew too little blood. This is a fallacy which history compounds further by explaining dog-fighting rules. The sole aim of dog matching is to find the most game dog, however, this is not always the winning dog. The dog who is most game, is the one which will continue to fight regardless of the punishment that he receives. It cannot be sensible to claim therefore that the old time dogmen bred their dogs to 'let go' more and have less instinct to hold, as Cairns suggested. It is the tenacious dog who keeps his hold that shows his willingness to fight, whereas the dog that does not keep its hold would appear to be unwilling to continue, and wants to give up the fight. What's more, once the dogs were fighting the aim would be to bite hard and thus injure or incapacitate the opponent. With this in mind, it does not seem credible to suggest that jaw strength was reduced and thus makes this less probable. It would be akin to Mike Tyson working on his fighting style, to enable him to punch lighter.
What is more, the dog fighting rules mentioned explain that dogs 'out-of-hold' can be counted out. With that in mind, would dogs be crossed with Terriers to 'let go' more.
The Stafford, with the exception of perhaps the American Pit Bull Terrier, has the strongest jaw of any dog, coupled with an instinct to hold on. It is obvious that the argument given for reducing jaw strength is perhaps the clearest example, of how the idea of a Terrier cross is being woven into the baiting dogs history, with little or no evidence to support it.
The article then goes on to extol the virtues of owning a white-coated dog, claiming that the blood showed more clearly on its coat, thereby providing more visible blood and attracting more spectators; yet more inaccurate information. It seems to have been forgotten that the pastime was illegal. The reason that whites predominated amongst baiting dogs was due to the fact that they were descended from the 'Alunt', a white-coated mastiff type dog, brought to Europe by tribes from Asia, and used as guards, hunters and sporting dogs. Boxers also originate from the Alunt and a glimpse at photographs of old Boxer (or 'Bullenbeiser') Shows reveal a majority of the dogs to be completely white. White still occurs in Boxer litters despite the attempts of exhibition breeders to eradicate the colour.
Let it not be forgotten the 'official' history explains that the bull-baiting dog had small teeth to help him hold on to the bull, but which were no good in drawing blood. The Terrier blood was then introduced to lengthen the teeth (weaken the jaw and reduce the holding instinct). Can it really be, that smaller teeth were more efficient at holding flesh than long ones? Of course not! The American Bulldog is quite capable of holding a wild boar during the hunt with 'normal' sized teeth, as is the Dogo Argenteno. It is assumed that because the modern Bulldog has small teeth, the old baiting dogs must have had them too. This is forgetting of course that the modern-day Bulldog has been crossed with all manner of dogs, including the Pug, to obtain the ultra-short face; not a characteristic of the early baiting dogs.
To sum up, the Bulldog that we know today bears no resemblance to the baiting and fighting dog of the 1800's, whereas the Stafford is identical. Early fanciers of the Bulldog such as Farnham and Fulton acknowledge that the Bulldog, with its ultra-short muzzle, was a show development. The excuse given for the muzzle, was that the dog needed the nose turned up in order to breathe with a hold on the Bull. The wrinkles that cause so much discomfort, were required to drain the blood from the dogs eyes. Strange, when we've been told that; a: the Bulldogs short teeth drew very little blood, hence the Terrier cross, and once he took hold he never let go, so what did he need to look at...and b: other dogs that hunt by biting and holding do not possess ultra-short muzzles, or turned up noses. The Stafford, as previously mentioned has no problem with biting or holding. It seems as though a story has been created to explain a deformity.
Thus, I believe that the Staffordshire Bull Terrier is the original baiting dog, with no crosses. The 'official' history has been created to fit the nameand not the facts. A name considered because the Bull Terrier, touted as the gladiator of the canine race, had already been Kennel Club registered. This dog had hard evidence of Terrier cross and was registered by its creator James Hinks. This dog was widely admired for its alleged gladatorial prowess; what a shame when it was everything the Stafford was, and the Bull Terrier was not.
Traductions : The SBT Body by John F Gordon
The body should be close coupled, with a level topline, wide front, deep brisket and well sprung ribs, being rather light in the loins
the body of the staffordshire must show to even the casual observer, great strength for its size and considerable springiness in body structure. A deep brisket, neck to chest region, should have no evidence of pinching and the chest itself should be profound. Viewed in profile, the line of the chest in an animal in good contour would run through the point of the elbow. Massive shoulders without loaded muscle are essential to his powerful make up and the same applies to a big rib cage, protective framework for a great heart and adequate respiratory machinery. The ribs should shorten as they approach the loin, producing a moderate tuck. the sides and loins need to be well filled out with muscle not fat. Fatness is anathema in a staffordshire bull terrier and should be consdiered seriously against the dog by any judge who admires the breed.
Look for: a good level topline and compact couplings, that part of the body between the last ribs and hip joints, connected to the backbone. Try and imagine the dog fitted into a square. If he fits nicely, he is sure to be compact and well balanced which is in his favour. Keep an open eye for the bad sway back. This is evidenced by a dip behind the shoulders, due to poor rib development. The roach back is shown by a convex backline, commencing from a dip at the withers to another at the tail set on. This is an objectionable fault in the breed and is due to abnormal arching of the spine, often accompanied by proppy shoulders.
Traductions : The Breed Standard, common sense
Breed Standard is intended to be a guideline for breeders to help them strive for excellence, and as a benchmark for conformation judges. Absolute perfection in any living creature may be unattainable, but the existence of a standard which exemplies the ideal, enables breeders and judges to work together to improve and maintain the quality of dog breeds.
When a Breed Standard is written it is critically important that the author/s have a sound appreciation of certain principles including but not limited to, the following:
1. The purpose for which the dog breed was developed
2. An understanding of the different ways that conformation impacts on the health of the dog
3. The relationship between anatomy and the dynamics of movement
4. Form to function and the relationship between the purpose of the breed and its temperament
5. The importance of BALANCE and the absence of exaggerations. If the Breed Standard requires a ' long neck' for example, longer is not necessarily better! And if the croup is to be 'sloping' let's not breed the dog so that he looks as if he is sitting down when he is standing up! And words in a Breed Standard, such as 'moderately' are terms often used in the pursuit of 'balance'.
Without a working knowledge of such basics, mistakes can be made which may result the over emphasis of certain traits that may not be able to be erased in the future. Writing a Breed Standard is not something to be undertaken lightly.
SOME BRIEF EXAMPLES OF EXAGGERATED 'VIRTUES'
Let us suppose that 'someone' thinks that a breed would look nicer with an exaggeratedly flat face, combined with as deep a jaw as possible to create, big chunky shoulders, wide chests and narrower hips...the result may include bitches who need Caesarian Section to deliver their puppies and dogs who have dental issues and breathing problems .... i.e. the wonderful British Bulldog.
L'importance de la couleur bringée dans le Staffordshire Bull Terrier
Brian Gilbert (Knightwood Oak)
Il est très important de garder une lignée de staffords bringés de bonne qualité dans un programme d'élevage, le bringé étant la couleur originale du Stafford. Ceux-ci peuvent être croisé avec n'importe quelle autre couleur et permet ainsi de garder une bonne pigmentation. Avec la mode actuelle pour les rouges, si nous ne faisons pas attention, la couleur rouge et très pigmentée que nous voyons dans les lignées sud-africaines pourrait devenir alors comme délavée ... jaune sablonneux, semblable à la couleur du Labrador. Le bringé devrait être considéré comme une couleur noble qui, comme je viens de l'exposer, est la clef de tout...
COLOUR CONUNDRUM IN THE U.K.
Some while ago I wrote an article about the gradual disappearance, or rarity of the S.B.T. traditional colour of Brindle, that is the Brindle of varying shades, i.e. red, fawn, mahogany, tiger, and all of the different shades of these colours. It seems to me that in time I, or perhaps someone else, will be writing a similar article about the rarity or the decline of the Red, at least in the show ring.
I will endeavour to explain, at a recent S.B.T. Championship Breed Show, I noticed that only one Red was present in both the Open dog and bitch classes, the rest were black and dark brindles, (in classes of well over 25 exhibits), and most of the main awards were won by Dark Brindles, this situation is becoming common practice at many shows, in fact people now regularly comment on the number of dark and black brindles who seem to win most or many of the prizes, and, at many shows, the line up for the challenge for the Challenge Certificates, consists mainly (sometimes all of them) with dark and black brindles.
The question therefore, has to be asked, why is this, why are dark and black brindles becoming a greatly dominant force in the show ring, and why has the traditional brindle (in the showring) almost disappeared, and now the Reds seemingly losing popularity?
I have discussed this matter for some time, with various people, and a number of reasons and observations are offered, i.e.
1/ Breeders of dark or black brindles (and never ever owned or bred Reds) can only see or understand dark or black brindles
when they judge this breed.
2/Dark or black brindles are easier to assess (!)
3/ The reds are not good enough (!)
4/ The brindles are superior.
If the first two solutions are correct, then I can only reach the sad conclusions that this breed is in serious trouble!
And exhibitors who exhibit red dogs are being swindled out of their entry fees! Surely if everyone pays the same entry fees then
everyone is entitled to the same consideration, or perhaps it should be made perfectly clear to all in the schedule, that
Mr. Bloggs, (or Mrs. Bloggs) the judge, will only look at,and only place the dark and black brindles, and will ignore or disregard
the colours that he (or she) does not like or understand!
At least exhibitors with Reds would not have to waste their time and money in entering under such judges! But there can
be no doubt that such judges do exist, but the reason why these judges possess this attitude is beyond my comprehension.
The third reason I cannot except, while agreeing that there are a very large number of excellent quality Dark and Black
Brindles being exhibited, but nevertheless we have seen, at times, quality reds standing down the line behind black or
dark brindles that do not possess the same qualities as those particular Reds.
The third and fourth I cannot except, but I believe that there is some confusion about quality and quantity, the plain fact
is that the Dark and Black Brindles have become extremely popular, and that there are many more Dark and Black Brindles
bred, and not nearly so many Reds. In fact I am always being requested for Red bitches, which only proves my point that
quality red bitches are becoming hard to find, and in fact people who like Reds often wait months to obtain one.
However, we can continually speculate about the possible reasons, but if this situation continues, our breed could develop
problems of coat colour. If breeders continually breed Dark or Black Brindles to other Dark or Black Brindles the more dominate
this colour will become. Carried to extreme limits, the main or only colours of the S.B.T., in say 20 years time, will be Dark or
Black Brindle.instead of the attractive diversity of colours we have at the present.
As I have written in previous articles (which I hope that my faithful reader found interesting) there are over 30 colours and
combinations of colours in this breed, a situation that must be envied by some other breeds.
I have seen litters in the whelping box with various colours, there could be a Red, or two, a Red or Fawn Brindle, and a
variety of shades of Dark Brindles, often the result of breeding Reds to Dark Brindles or Brindles.
The most important point here is the fact that Dark Brindles will only produce Dark or Black Brindles, (if there is no red
background in either of the Sire and Dam,) and no other colour, except of course when mated to a Red, when then we
may see the variety of colours, i.e. Reds, Dark Brindles, and Traditional Brindles!
Therefore, we can clearly see the great importance of the Red colour in breeding, if we are going to keep all the various
colours, if we do not appreciate or value this colour, then there can be no doubt about the final outcome.
There are of other vital reasons in keeping our valuable diversity of colour, firstly the Pigmentation factor, (i.e. intensity
of colour, and markings, black toenails and eyerims, etc.) There can be no doubt that the mixing of colours considerably
helps to keep or improve pigmentation. Continual breeding of Red to Red, or Dark or Black Brindle to Dark or Black Brindle
will only result in the eventual deterioration of good pigmentation. I have seen poor pigmentation in all colours, because
of such breeding, the signs are all too obvious, grey noses, washed out brindles (often refered to as Blues), grey eyerims,
with â€˜spectaclesâ€™, lack of hair inside the thighs, white or fawn toenails, and so on.
Another obvious reason for the mixing of colours in our breeding, is that it helps to improve or keep the correct texture of
coat, dogs from mainly Dark or Black Brindle breeding sometimes have harsh coats, mainly along their backs, whereas dogs
from mixed colour breeding usually have close coats of the desired texture.
At this juncture I would make it clear that I like and admire the Dark and Black Brindles, and had the fortune to have â€˜made
upâ€™ 3 Dark Brindle Champions, but I also like and appreciate the Reds!
Colour breeding :
The following GENERAL ( or GUIDE LINES) rules of colour breeding are as follows
Red to red produce only reds,
Red to Dark Brindle, produce reds, traditional brindles of various shades, dark brindles
Dark brindle to Dark Brindle (if one or more of the parents of the pair is red) produce,
Reds and dark brindles, and possibly red or fawn brindles.
Black brindle to black brindle, produce only black brindles
Traditional brindle (any brindle carrying red) to any kind of brindle, produce reds, various shades of brindle
White to white, produce all whites with various small markings.
It is important to note that the colour of the parents of the mating pair, play an important part in the colour of the puppies.
White to any solid colour often produces solid colours and/or pieds
ALEC WATERS (ASHSTOCK)
Traduction : Form follows Function
Form follows function, aesthetics follow fashion. aesthetics follow fashion. The tendency of the Stafford toward his current "Bully" conformation is strictly due to the last hundred years or so of breeding for standard "show" conformation. If the Stafford were still being used as a working pit dog, he would not be the dog that he is; and thus, not the dog I wanted. If the Space Shuttle were a Crop Duster, it wouldn't need ceramic tiles.:-) If you will look at the old pictures of Staffords that were used in the pits, they bore a striking resemblance to today's American Pit Bull Terriers. Smaller heads, deeper chests, longer muscle, etc. etc. This was strictly due to their success in the pit, not because he had a perfect bite, topline, ears, and so on and so forth.
Conformations only contribution to the working pit dog was wrestling ability. Gameness, stamina, biting ability, and conditioning were all as important if not more important than what the dog looked like. His form followed his function until we, society, decided he had no legal, moral, or ethical function. From that point on, asthetics followed fashion. Today's Stafford could be bred back to his earlier days if he were used in the pits and Champion was bred to Champion for a few generations. The resulting dogs would not look like the barrel chested athlete asleep at my feet, nor would it have many of the characteristics that make my 1997 model Staffords different from the 1897, 1797, and 1697 models.
We cannot compromise our standard. We cannot breed bad attitude into a perfect shape. The 1997 Stafford is not a working pit dog as his ancestors were. He is my companion, my child's playmate, my wife's foot warmer, and my neighbor's poodles' worst nightmare. :-)
To sum it up, our dogs couldn't be made to last 2-3 hours in a pit today, and I don't want mine to. I also don't want my little barrel chested 1997 model Staffordshire Bull Terrier athlete turning into a 65 pound 20 inch show-stopping champion that is more Bulldog than Bull Terrier. I love dogs and I love the Stafford. We serve him best by keeping to our standard, "Jim the Dandy". If you love the Stafford, don't show, promote, condone, or for any reason breed an oversized, big headed, pot bellied, 65 pound 20 inch dog for aesthetics or profit.
Etalon disponible pour saillie
Traductions : Wise Words - Paroles sages
Raymond H. Oppenheimer wrote:
1. Remember that the animals you select for breeding today will have an impact on the breed for many years to come. Keep that thought firmly in mind when you choose breeding stock.
2. You can choose only two individuals per generation. Choose only the best, because you will have to wait for another generation to improve what you start with. Breed only if you expect the progeny to be better than both parents.
3. You cannot expect statistical predictions to hold true in a small number of animals (as in one litter of puppies). Statistics only apply to large populations.
4. A pedigree is a tool to help you learn the good and bad attributes that your dog is likely to exhibit or reproduce. A pedigree is only as good as the dog it represents.
5. Breed for a total dog, not just one or two characteristics. Don't follow fads in your breed, because they are usually meant to emphasize one or two features of the dog at the expense of the soundness and function of the whole.
6. Quality does not mean quantity. Quality is produced by careful study, having a good mental picture of what you are trying to achieve, having patience to wait until the right breeding stock is available and to evaluate what you have already produced, and above all, having a breeding plan that is at least three generations ahead of the breeding you do today.
7. Don't bother with a good dog that cannot produce well. Enjoy him (or her) for the beauty that he represents but don't use him in a breeding program.
8. Use out-crosses sparingly. For each desirable characteristic you acquire, you will get many bad traits that you will have to eliminate in succeeding generations.
9. Inbreeding is a valuable tool, being the fastest method to set good characteristics and type. It brings to light hidden traits that need to be eliminated from the breed.
10. Breeding does not "create" anything. What you get is what was there to begin with. It may have been hidden for many generations, but it was there.
11. Discard the old cliché about the littermate of that great producer being just as good to breed to. Littermates seldom have the same genetic make-up.
12. Be honest with yourself. There are no perfect dogs (or bitches) nor are there perfect producers. You cannot do a competent job of breeding if you cannot recognise the faults and virtues of the dogs you plan to breed.
14. Hereditary traits are inherited equally from both parents. Do not expect to solve all of your problems in one generation.
15. If the worst puppy in your last litter is no better than the worst puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.
16. If the best puppy in your last litter is no better than the best puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.
17. Do not choose a breeding animal by either the best or the worst that he (or she) has produced. Evaluate the total get by the attributes of the majority.
18. Keep in mind that quality is a combination of soundness and function. It is not merely the lack of faults, but the positive presence of virtues. It is the whole dog that counts.
19. Don't allow personal feelings to influence your choice of breeding stock. The right dog for your breeding program is the right dog, whoever owns it. Don't ever decry a good dog; they are too rare and wonderful to be demeaned by pettiness.
20. Don't be satisfied with anything but the best. The second best is never good enough.