L'AMOUR DES STAFFIES
MISE À JOUR - 19 11 2019 - SOS VOTRE CHIEN AU QUOTIDIEN
Eleveuse passionnée depuis plus de 20 ans, comportementalisme éducatrice canin, formatrice en élevage canin, écrivain. Je vous propose mon aide dans votre élevage au quotidien, gestion de meute, comportement, éducation, santé, reproduction, mise bas (24h/24), gestion des chiots, psychologie du chien, juridique, création entreprise, droits et devoirs de l’éleveur et du particulier, … Pour toutes questions concernant votre/vos compagnons à 4 pattes… Avec bienveillance. Attention ! Je ne me substitut pas aux professionnels de santé que sont les vétérinaires. ? 08 90 17 25 30 0.80€/min
Je suis éleveuse de Staffordshire Bull Terriers depuis maintenant 16 ans.
Passionnée de cette race et des chiens en général. J’ai sorti le premier magazine
spécialisé Staffordshire Bull Terrier en France. 4 livres sur le sujet ...
Dans notre élevage, nous proposons "The all purpose dog" (le chien qui peut tout faire). Notre priorité, produire des chiens performants, avec des caractères parfaitement équilibrés, en santé et bien évidemment dans le standard de la race. Nos chiens sont à la fois de très bons chiens de familles, équilibrés avec les enfants et les humains. Des chiens de sport, dynamiques et joyeux.
Etant aussi comportementaliste-éducateur Canin, j'assure un suivi gratuit pour tous les propriétaires de mes chiots, qu'ils aient 2 mois ou 17 ans ;)
Chris
Traductions :
T is for tenacity, they´ll never concede,
A is for affection, the love that they give,
F is for faithfulness, as long as they live,
F is for fearsome, which they´ll willingly be,
O is for outstanding, when trouble they see,
R is for reckless, when chasing the ball,
D is for the other dogs, they can´t stand them at all,
S is for safety, you feel when they´re there,
H is for heroic, they don´t easily scare,
I is for impressive, there´s few breeds the same,
R is for ready, whenever they play the "game"
E is for effort, because they´ll always try,
B is for bravery, they´ll fight tooth and eye,
U is for unstinting, in their service to you,
L is for loyalty, only matched by a few,
L is for the life time, that they´ll spend by your side,
T is for the tenderness, that you see in their eyes,
E is for the eternity, that you´ll remember their name,
R is for replacements, that are never the same,
R is for regretting, their shortness off stay
I is for imagine, once they´ve gone away,
E is for earning the love that you´re shown,
R is for remembering, the "Staff" that you own.
1.Exhibitors should not be in too great a hurry to *get there*. Knowledge can be acquired by actual experience and by paying for such. Experience is undoubtedly the best, and by gaining this slowly the desired object is more quickly achieved 2.When starting in the fancy go to someone of repute, state your wants and the price you are prepared to pay. You will be advised honestly and your foundation will be sound.
3.Purchase only good strains
4.Dont go to extremes in size, some judges like big ones, whilst others like to put up little ones, a 34 pound stafford is a safe size
5.Go to shows as often as you can, getting your terriers to show themselves requires great patience. A good terrier will ruin its chances by being aggressive or shy
6.Follow the judging and try to understand it and pick out for yourself the merits and faults in the exhibits
7.Be unscrupulously clean in your kennels. Give your dog plenty of freedom
8.Dont put too much faith in the opinions of your friends, take your dog to a show, enter in one class, you will then get the opinions of an expert. After the judging is over ask the judge his opinion as to the faults and the good points of your dog. You will find he will readily give you his opinion
9.If you intend breeding and have secured a bitch, try mating her with a dog that will correct her faults. Do not think the successful show dog is bound to be more a successful sire, it is much better to mate her to a proved sire, also make sure the dog is sound
10. Feeding is a big item where the general health of the dog is concerned, each owner has his own way as to the feeding of his dog
8 EASY TO REMEMBER TIPS FOR RESPONSIBLE STAFFORD OWNERS
1. Exercise your dog everyday.Staffies have high energy levels they want to play and run forever the more exercise they get the calmer and better behaved they will be. If you can manage it two good long walks a day is good.
2. Supervise your dog with small children.
This is a must. Small children are often hurt by dogs not out of angry, but because dogs can scratch them, step on them, and otherwise injure them.
3. Always have your dog on a leash in public.
Always have your dog on the lead in public places, they can be nervous and excitable when there are lots of people it is bettter to be safe than sorry.
4. Always supervise your dogs and never allow them to roam free.
Loose dogs are often hurt by cruel people and accidents can happen as well. Always know where your dog is.
5. Spay or Neuter your dog.
Unless you plan on doing something where the dog can not be spayed or neutered get it done. This will reduce accidental breedings and stop roaming males from getting loose.
7. Train your dog.
Take your dog to obedience classes or hire a private trainer to help you train your dog. This is very important for Staffie owners. If you can not control your dog bad things will eventually happen. Get your dog into training as soon as possible.
8. Socialize your dog.
Take your dog to as many places as you can, meet new people and while they are young meet as many other dogs as possible. Socializing your Staffies will help curb any future problems that might occur.
Responsible ownership starts from the time your Staffordshir Bull Terrier comes to live with you. Irresponsible owner's are one of the major causes for all the problems the breed faces today. It's our hope here at Staffordshire Bull Terrier Website we can spread the word and educate more owners to take responsibility for their dogs actions.
In order for things to change, we must change the way we look at our own actions and how they effect the world around us. Until we do that, things will simply stay the way they are right now.
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Before the nineteenth century, bloodsports such as bull baiting, bear baiting and cock fighting were common. Bulls bought to market were set upon by dogs as a way of tenderizing the meat and providing entertainment for the spectators; and dog fights with bears, bulls and other animals were often organized as entertainment for both royalty and commoners. Early Bull and Terriers were not bred for the handsome visual specimen of today, rather they were bred for the characteristic known as gameness. The pitting of dogs against bear or bull tested the gameness, strength and skill of the dog. These early "proto-staffords" provided the ancestral foundation stock for the Staffordshire Bull Terrier, the American Pit Bull Terrier with the exception of the American Staffordshire Terrier.
These bloodsports were officially eliminated in 1835 as Britain began to introduce animal welfare laws. Since dogfights were cheaper to organized and far easier to conceal from the law than bull or bear baits, bloodsport proponents turned to pitting their dogs one against another instead. Dog fighting was used as both a bloodsport (often involving gambling) and as an effort to continue to test the quality of their stock. For decades afterwards, dog fighting clandestinely took place in pockets of working-class Britain and America. Dogs were released in a pit, and the last dog still fighting (or occasionally, the last dog surviving) was recognized as the winner. The quality of pluckiness or "gameness" was still highly prized, and dogs that gave up during a fight were reviled as "curs". As an important aside, fighting dogs were often handled in the pit during fights, by both their owners and the judge, so were bred to be as trustworthy with humans as they were aggressive towards other dogs.
It is this nefarious history that gives the Stafford his celebrated temperament, as in the words of the American Kennel Club: "from the past history of the Staffordshire Terrier, the modern dog draws its character of indomitable courage, high intelligence, and tenacity. This, coupled with its affection for its friends, and children in particular, its off-duty quietness and trustworthy stability, makes it a foremost all-purpose dog."
The breed attained UK Kennel Club recognition on 25 May 1935. Much of the groundwork to attain this status can be attributed to Joseph Dunn and Joe Mallan. Dunn and Mallan invited friends to a Stafford fanciers meeting at the Cross Guns Hotel, Cradley Heath, South Staffordshire (a hotel owned and managed by Mallan). About fifty breeders met at the hotel and formed the Original Staffordshire Terrier Club. The name was shortly changed to Staffordshire Terrier Club due to the Bull Terrier Club objecting the use of the word 'original'. Stafford were imported into the US during this time. Since that time the breed has grown to be one of the most popular breeds of dogs with a large representation at the Crufts Dog Show.
In the US many were imported by pit fighters and used in their breeding programs to produce the American Pit Bull Terrier and American Staffordshire Terrier. Many were imported by British nationals who brought their dogs with them or U.S. expatriates who fell in love with the breed in England and brought it home. Eventually through the campaign of many people the Stafford was recognized in the U.S. in 1976. He has a loyal following.
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These men, hardy of frame, forgemen, furnacemen and colliers, with no fear of danger, were also able to bear up to and face physical pain without flinching. Many of them displayed great heroism at pit and foundry accidents, a regular feature of their lives. Disasters were not infrequent; There were no Factory Acts to protect them in those days. The hours were long and arduous, in conditions unsuitable for the lowest form of beast, including intense heat or extreme cold and dampness. Emerging in darkness at the end of the day, covered in dirt, grime, and, at times filth, they headed home. Their homes were sparsely furnished and lit by candel and oil lamps. The men of this era had to be tough and strong to survive. Is it any wonder they looked upon dog-fighting and it's fatalities with no qualm?
In many instances, the courage and 'fight' of the Black Country man was his only asset. Men boys and dogs were expected to show courage, gameness and fighting spirit. The manner of meeting death was also important to these men. It was only acceptable to go down fighting; this was as vital as victory......
Illustration de ce texte
Merci à Vincent propriétaire de Duke et Eden ^^
Baiting sports were indeed outlawed in 1835, but to suggest that our breed was in the 'wilderness' until Kennel Club recognition is wrong. The baiting dogs of the time were still kept and admired by those who valued them for their gameness, often using them as outcrosses to other breeds to improve the qualities of these other dogs. These owners were more interested in whether the dog could undertake his task, rather than how he looked. Baiting continued to be participated in well into the late 1800's. However, as it was illegal, large crowds were not encouraged. It was far easier to hold clandestine dog-fights rather than events with larger animals, and these matches would be held inside, often in pubs. In these areas the spectators would have been much closer to the action, and trying to contain an excited 50lb dog would have been difficult. Smaller examples would have been easier to handle and these smaller dogs began to become popular.
Further evidence that baiting continued, is to be found in an 1889 book on the bulldog by Fulton. In it, he writes from memory of a bull-baiting that took place in Greenwich. He describes how Bull-dogs, very different from the ones exhibited at the time, were run at the Bull. One has only to examine old paintings and prints that depicted baiting, etc. They clearly show the dogs that Fulton is describing; very different to Bulldogs but identical to Staffords. Of course these dogs were named according to their main function at the time, Bull dogs. Not all dogs of this type were run at the bull, the pastime cost money and the poorer classes tested their dogs against other dogs.
The qualities that the baiting dogs possessed were ideally suited to all forms of combat and in particular dog-fighting. The 'official' history suggests that this was not so, as the the dog held too much and drew too little blood. This is a fallacy which history compounds further by explaining dog-fighting rules. The sole aim of dog matching is to find the most game dog, however, this is not always the winning dog. The dog who is most game, is the one which will continue to fight regardless of the punishment that he receives. It cannot be sensible to claim therefore that the old time dogmen bred their dogs to 'let go' more and have less instinct to hold, as Cairns suggested. It is the tenacious dog who keeps his hold that shows his willingness to fight, whereas the dog that does not keep its hold would appear to be unwilling to continue, and wants to give up the fight. What's more, once the dogs were fighting the aim would be to bite hard and thus injure or incapacitate the opponent. With this in mind, it does not seem credible to suggest that jaw strength was reduced and thus makes this less probable. It would be akin to Mike Tyson working on his fighting style, to enable him to punch lighter.
What is more, the dog fighting rules mentioned explain that dogs 'out-of-hold' can be counted out. With that in mind, would dogs be crossed with Terriers to 'let go' more.
The Stafford, with the exception of perhaps the American Pit Bull Terrier, has the strongest jaw of any dog, coupled with an instinct to hold on. It is obvious that the argument given for reducing jaw strength is perhaps the clearest example, of how the idea of a Terrier cross is being woven into the baiting dogs history, with little or no evidence to support it.
The article then goes on to extol the virtues of owning a white-coated dog, claiming that the blood showed more clearly on its coat, thereby providing more visible blood and attracting more spectators; yet more inaccurate information. It seems to have been forgotten that the pastime was illegal. The reason that whites predominated amongst baiting dogs was due to the fact that they were descended from the 'Alunt', a white-coated mastiff type dog, brought to Europe by tribes from Asia, and used as guards, hunters and sporting dogs. Boxers also originate from the Alunt and a glimpse at photographs of old Boxer (or 'Bullenbeiser') Shows reveal a majority of the dogs to be completely white. White still occurs in Boxer litters despite the attempts of exhibition breeders to eradicate the colour.
Let it not be forgotten the 'official' history explains that the bull-baiting dog had small teeth to help him hold on to the bull, but which were no good in drawing blood. The Terrier blood was then introduced to lengthen the teeth (weaken the jaw and reduce the holding instinct). Can it really be, that smaller teeth were more efficient at holding flesh than long ones? Of course not! The American Bulldog is quite capable of holding a wild boar during the hunt with 'normal' sized teeth, as is the Dogo Argenteno. It is assumed that because the modern Bulldog has small teeth, the old baiting dogs must have had them too. This is forgetting of course that the modern-day Bulldog has been crossed with all manner of dogs, including the Pug, to obtain the ultra-short face; not a characteristic of the early baiting dogs.
To sum up, the Bulldog that we know today bears no resemblance to the baiting and fighting dog of the 1800's, whereas the Stafford is identical. Early fanciers of the Bulldog such as Farnham and Fulton acknowledge that the Bulldog, with its ultra-short muzzle, was a show development. The excuse given for the muzzle, was that the dog needed the nose turned up in order to breathe with a hold on the Bull. The wrinkles that cause so much discomfort, were required to drain the blood from the dogs eyes. Strange, when we've been told that; a: the Bulldogs short teeth drew very little blood, hence the Terrier cross, and once he took hold he never let go, so what did he need to look at...and b: other dogs that hunt by biting and holding do not possess ultra-short muzzles, or turned up noses. The Stafford, as previously mentioned has no problem with biting or holding. It seems as though a story has been created to explain a deformity.
Thus, I believe that the Staffordshire Bull Terrier is the original baiting dog, with no crosses. The 'official' history has been created to fit the nameand not the facts. A name considered because the Bull Terrier, touted as the gladiator of the canine race, had already been Kennel Club registered. This dog had hard evidence of Terrier cross and was registered by its creator James Hinks. This dog was widely admired for its alleged gladatorial prowess; what a shame when it was everything the Stafford was, and the Bull Terrier was not.
Traductions : The SBT Body by John F Gordon
The body should be close coupled, with a level topline, wide front, deep brisket and well sprung ribs, being rather light in the loins
the body of the staffordshire must show to even the casual observer, great strength for its size and considerable springiness in body structure. A deep brisket, neck to chest region, should have no evidence of pinching and the chest itself should be profound. Viewed in profile, the line of the chest in an animal in good contour would run through the point of the elbow. Massive shoulders without loaded muscle are essential to his powerful make up and the same applies to a big rib cage, protective framework for a great heart and adequate respiratory machinery. The ribs should shorten as they approach the loin, producing a moderate tuck. the sides and loins need to be well filled out with muscle not fat. Fatness is anathema in a staffordshire bull terrier and should be consdiered seriously against the dog by any judge who admires the breed.
Look for: a good level topline and compact couplings, that part of the body between the last ribs and hip joints, connected to the backbone. Try and imagine the dog fitted into a square. If he fits nicely, he is sure to be compact and well balanced which is in his favour. Keep an open eye for the bad sway back. This is evidenced by a dip behind the shoulders, due to poor rib development. The roach back is shown by a convex backline, commencing from a dip at the withers to another at the tail set on. This is an objectionable fault in the breed and is due to abnormal arching of the spine, often accompanied by proppy shoulders.
Traductions : The Breed Standard, common sense
Breed Standard is intended to be a guideline for breeders to help them strive for excellence, and as a benchmark for conformation judges. Absolute perfection in any living creature may be unattainable, but the existence of a standard which exemplies the ideal, enables breeders and judges to work together to improve and maintain the quality of dog breeds.
When a Breed Standard is written it is critically important that the author/s have a sound appreciation of certain principles including but not limited to, the following:
1. The purpose for which the dog breed was developed
2. An understanding of the different ways that conformation impacts on the health of the dog
3. The relationship between anatomy and the dynamics of movement
4. Form to function and the relationship between the purpose of the breed and its temperament
5. The importance of BALANCE and the absence of exaggerations. If the Breed Standard requires a ' long neck' for example, longer is not necessarily better! And if the croup is to be 'sloping' let's not breed the dog so that he looks as if he is sitting down when he is standing up! And words in a Breed Standard, such as 'moderately' are terms often used in the pursuit of 'balance'.
Without a working knowledge of such basics, mistakes can be made which may result the over emphasis of certain traits that may not be able to be erased in the future. Writing a Breed Standard is not something to be undertaken lightly.
SOME BRIEF EXAMPLES OF EXAGGERATED 'VIRTUES'
Let us suppose that 'someone' thinks that a breed would look nicer with an exaggeratedly flat face, combined with as deep a jaw as possible to create, big chunky shoulders, wide chests and narrower hips...the result may include bitches who need Caesarian Section to deliver their puppies and dogs who have dental issues and breathing problems .... i.e. the wonderful British Bulldog.
L'importance de la couleur bringée dans le Staffordshire Bull Terrier
Brian Gilbert (Knightwood Oak)
Traduction :
Il est très important de garder une lignée de staffords bringés de bonne qualité dans un programme d'élevage, le bringé étant la couleur originale du Stafford. Ceux-ci peuvent être croisé avec n'importe quelle autre couleur et permet ainsi de garder une bonne pigmentation. Avec la mode actuelle pour les rouges, si nous ne faisons pas attention, la couleur rouge et très pigmentée que nous voyons dans les lignées sud-africaines pourrait devenir alors comme délavée ... jaune sablonneux, semblable à la couleur du Labrador. Le bringé devrait être considéré comme une couleur noble qui, comme je viens de l'exposer, est la clef de tout...
COLOUR CONUNDRUM IN THE U.K.
Some while ago I wrote an article about the gradual disappearance, or rarity of the S.B.T. traditional colour of Brindle, that is the Brindle of varying shades, i.e. red, fawn, mahogany, tiger, and all of the different shades of these colours. It seems to me that in time I, or perhaps someone else, will be writing a similar article about the rarity or the decline of the Red, at least in the show ring.
I will endeavour to explain, at a recent S.B.T. Championship Breed Show, I noticed that only one Red was present in both the Open dog and bitch classes, the rest were black and dark brindles, (in classes of well over 25 exhibits), and most of the main awards were won by Dark Brindles, this situation is becoming common practice at many shows, in fact people now regularly comment on the number of dark and black brindles who seem to win most or many of the prizes, and, at many shows, the line up for the challenge for the Challenge Certificates, consists mainly (sometimes all of them) with dark and black brindles.
The question therefore, has to be asked, why is this, why are dark and black brindles becoming a greatly dominant force in the show ring, and why has the traditional brindle (in the showring) almost disappeared, and now the Reds seemingly losing popularity?
I have discussed this matter for some time, with various people, and a number of reasons and observations are offered, i.e.
1/ Breeders of dark or black brindles (and never ever owned or bred Reds) can only see or understand dark or black brindles
when they judge this breed.
2/Dark or black brindles are easier to assess (!)
3/ The reds are not good enough (!)
4/ The brindles are superior.
If the first two solutions are correct, then I can only reach the sad conclusions that this breed is in serious trouble!
And exhibitors who exhibit red dogs are being swindled out of their entry fees! Surely if everyone pays the same entry fees then
everyone is entitled to the same consideration, or perhaps it should be made perfectly clear to all in the schedule, that
Mr. Bloggs, (or Mrs. Bloggs) the judge, will only look at,and only place the dark and black brindles, and will ignore or disregard
the colours that he (or she) does not like or understand!
At least exhibitors with Reds would not have to waste their time and money in entering under such judges! But there can
be no doubt that such judges do exist, but the reason why these judges possess this attitude is beyond my comprehension.
The third reason I cannot except, while agreeing that there are a very large number of excellent quality Dark and Black
Brindles being exhibited, but nevertheless we have seen, at times, quality reds standing down the line behind black or
dark brindles that do not possess the same qualities as those particular Reds.
The third and fourth I cannot except, but I believe that there is some confusion about quality and quantity, the plain fact
is that the Dark and Black Brindles have become extremely popular, and that there are many more Dark and Black Brindles
bred, and not nearly so many Reds. In fact I am always being requested for Red bitches, which only proves my point that
quality red bitches are becoming hard to find, and in fact people who like Reds often wait months to obtain one.
However, we can continually speculate about the possible reasons, but if this situation continues, our breed could develop
problems of coat colour. If breeders continually breed Dark or Black Brindles to other Dark or Black Brindles the more dominate
this colour will become. Carried to extreme limits, the main or only colours of the S.B.T., in say 20 years time, will be Dark or
Black Brindle.instead of the attractive diversity of colours we have at the present.
As I have written in previous articles (which I hope that my faithful reader found interesting) there are over 30 colours and
combinations of colours in this breed, a situation that must be envied by some other breeds.
I have seen litters in the whelping box with various colours, there could be a Red, or two, a Red or Fawn Brindle, and a
variety of shades of Dark Brindles, often the result of breeding Reds to Dark Brindles or Brindles.
The most important point here is the fact that Dark Brindles will only produce Dark or Black Brindles, (if there is no red
background in either of the Sire and Dam,) and no other colour, except of course when mated to a Red, when then we
may see the variety of colours, i.e. Reds, Dark Brindles, and Traditional Brindles!
Therefore, we can clearly see the great importance of the Red colour in breeding, if we are going to keep all the various
colours, if we do not appreciate or value this colour, then there can be no doubt about the final outcome.
There are of other vital reasons in keeping our valuable diversity of colour, firstly the Pigmentation factor, (i.e. intensity
of colour, and markings, black toenails and eyerims, etc.) There can be no doubt that the mixing of colours considerably
helps to keep or improve pigmentation. Continual breeding of Red to Red, or Dark or Black Brindle to Dark or Black Brindle
will only result in the eventual deterioration of good pigmentation. I have seen poor pigmentation in all colours, because
of such breeding, the signs are all too obvious, grey noses, washed out brindles (often refered to as Blues), grey eyerims,
with ‘spectacles’, lack of hair inside the thighs, white or fawn toenails, and so on.
Another obvious reason for the mixing of colours in our breeding, is that it helps to improve or keep the correct texture of
coat, dogs from mainly Dark or Black Brindle breeding sometimes have harsh coats, mainly along their backs, whereas dogs
from mixed colour breeding usually have close coats of the desired texture.
At this juncture I would make it clear that I like and admire the Dark and Black Brindles, and had the fortune to have ‘made
up’ 3 Dark Brindle Champions, but I also like and appreciate the Reds!
Colour breeding :
The following GENERAL ( or GUIDE LINES) rules of colour breeding are as follows
Red to red produce only reds,
Red to Dark Brindle, produce reds, traditional brindles of various shades, dark brindles
Dark brindle to Dark Brindle (if one or more of the parents of the pair is red) produce,
Reds and dark brindles, and possibly red or fawn brindles.
Black brindle to black brindle, produce only black brindles
Traditional brindle (any brindle carrying red) to any kind of brindle, produce reds, various shades of brindle
White to white, produce all whites with various small markings.
It is important to note that the colour of the parents of the mating pair, play an important part in the colour of the puppies.
White to any solid colour often produces solid colours and/or pieds
ALEC WATERS (ASHSTOCK)
Traduction : Form follows Function
Form follows function, aesthetics follow fashion. aesthetics follow fashion. The tendency of the Stafford toward his current "Bully" conformation is strictly due to the last hundred years or so of breeding for standard "show" conformation. If the Stafford were still being used as a working pit dog, he would not be the dog that he is; and thus, not the dog I wanted. If the Space Shuttle were a Crop Duster, it wouldn't need ceramic tiles.:-) If you will look at the old pictures of Staffords that were used in the pits, they bore a striking resemblance to today's American Pit Bull Terriers. Smaller heads, deeper chests, longer muscle, etc. etc. This was strictly due to their success in the pit, not because he had a perfect bite, topline, ears, and so on and so forth.
Conformations only contribution to the working pit dog was wrestling ability. Gameness, stamina, biting ability, and conditioning were all as important if not more important than what the dog looked like. His form followed his function until we, society, decided he had no legal, moral, or ethical function. From that point on, asthetics followed fashion. Today's Stafford could be bred back to his earlier days if he were used in the pits and Champion was bred to Champion for a few generations. The resulting dogs would not look like the barrel chested athlete asleep at my feet, nor would it have many of the characteristics that make my 1997 model Staffords different from the 1897, 1797, and 1697 models.
We cannot compromise our standard. We cannot breed bad attitude into a perfect shape. The 1997 Stafford is not a working pit dog as his ancestors were. He is my companion, my child's playmate, my wife's foot warmer, and my neighbor's poodles' worst nightmare. :-)
To sum it up, our dogs couldn't be made to last 2-3 hours in a pit today, and I don't want mine to. I also don't want my little barrel chested 1997 model Staffordshire Bull Terrier athlete turning into a 65 pound 20 inch show-stopping champion that is more Bulldog than Bull Terrier. I love dogs and I love the Stafford. We serve him best by keeping to our standard, "Jim the Dandy". If you love the Stafford, don't show, promote, condone, or for any reason breed an oversized, big headed, pot bellied, 65 pound 20 inch dog for aesthetics or profit.
Etalon disponible pour saillie
Traductions : Wise Words - Paroles sages
Raymond H. Oppenheimer wrote:
1. Remember that the animals you select for breeding today will have an impact on the breed for many years to come. Keep that thought firmly in mind when you choose breeding stock.
2. You can choose only two individuals per generation. Choose only the best, because you will have to wait for another generation to improve what you start with. Breed only if you expect the progeny to be better than both parents.
3. You cannot expect statistical predictions to hold true in a small number of animals (as in one litter of puppies). Statistics only apply to large populations.
4. A pedigree is a tool to help you learn the good and bad attributes that your dog is likely to exhibit or reproduce. A pedigree is only as good as the dog it represents.
5. Breed for a total dog, not just one or two characteristics. Don't follow fads in your breed, because they are usually meant to emphasize one or two features of the dog at the expense of the soundness and function of the whole.
6. Quality does not mean quantity. Quality is produced by careful study, having a good mental picture of what you are trying to achieve, having patience to wait until the right breeding stock is available and to evaluate what you have already produced, and above all, having a breeding plan that is at least three generations ahead of the breeding you do today.
7. Don't bother with a good dog that cannot produce well. Enjoy him (or her) for the beauty that he represents but don't use him in a breeding program.
8. Use out-crosses sparingly. For each desirable characteristic you acquire, you will get many bad traits that you will have to eliminate in succeeding generations.
9. Inbreeding is a valuable tool, being the fastest method to set good characteristics and type. It brings to light hidden traits that need to be eliminated from the breed.
10. Breeding does not "create" anything. What you get is what was there to begin with. It may have been hidden for many generations, but it was there.
11. Discard the old cliché about the littermate of that great producer being just as good to breed to. Littermates seldom have the same genetic make-up.
12. Be honest with yourself. There are no perfect dogs (or bitches) nor are there perfect producers. You cannot do a competent job of breeding if you cannot recognise the faults and virtues of the dogs you plan to breed.
14. Hereditary traits are inherited equally from both parents. Do not expect to solve all of your problems in one generation.
15. If the worst puppy in your last litter is no better than the worst puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.
16. If the best puppy in your last litter is no better than the best puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.
17. Do not choose a breeding animal by either the best or the worst that he (or she) has produced. Evaluate the total get by the attributes of the majority.
18. Keep in mind that quality is a combination of soundness and function. It is not merely the lack of faults, but the positive presence of virtues. It is the whole dog that counts.
19. Don't allow personal feelings to influence your choice of breeding stock. The right dog for your breeding program is the right dog, whoever owns it. Don't ever decry a good dog; they are too rare and wonderful to be demeaned by pettiness.
20. Don't be satisfied with anything but the best. The second best is never good enough.
Benefits of Swimming for dogs...
Benefits of Swimming for dogs...
Benefits of Swimming for dogs...
Swimming involves the use of almost all the muscles required for movement, without the concussive stresses of walking or running. Also, because water resistance is greater than air resistance, the muscles have to work harder.
It may surprise you to know that for a dog, 1 minutes' swimming is equivalent to about 4 minutes of running, according to Dr Arleigh Reynolds, a Veterinary Surgeon and Canine Physiologist.
However, swimming has the benefit of achieving this level of work on the muscles, improving strength and tone, and working the cardio-vascular and respiratory systems, without the impact of unsupported exercise, with the associated damage that can cause.
In fit dogs, swimming can be used as a supplementary form of exercise to improve strength and stamina. Once used to swimming, most dogs enjoy it, at the same time as improving their fitness. Stronger, toned muscles help to protect dogs against injuries sustained during normal exercise, such as running or chasing a ball, or during more demanding exercise such as agility and flyball. Swimming should be used in conjunction with normal exercise to ensure the dogs' bones are also kept strong and prepared for exercise on land.
For dogs with medical conditions that restrict or prohibit normal, concussive exercise, swimming is vital.
For example, in the case of a Total Hip Replacement operation, it is important to build up the supporting muscle prior to the operation. However, walking and running are unsuitable forms of exercise, For weight loss, swimming provides a form of supported exercise, enabling good use of muscles and improving the metabolic rate. It can be difficult to give an overweight dog sufficient exercise on land without over-stressing bones and joints, so swimming is an excellent complementary exercise.
As with any fitness programme, you should expect to start gently and increase the exercise over time. Don't be surprised if your dogs only swim for a few minutes or a few short bursts to begin with. Gradually, as their fitness improves, they will be able to swim longer with fewer rests.
The Staffordshire Bull Terrier by Phil Drabble...
The Staffordshire Bull Terrier by Phil Drabble...
STAFFORDSHIRE BULL TERRIER
Like most of the worthwhile things in life, a good Stafford is not attained without effort on the part of his owner. If he is thoroughly trained and well exercised, no dog could possibly be a more delightful companion. On the other hand, an untrained, under-
exercised Stafford can do more mischief in a few moments than any dog I know.
This is easily understood when it is realised that Staffords have been bred for more than a century for the sole purpose of dog-fighting. When bull-baiting finally ceased, about 1835, the men who worshipped at the shrine of the Game Dog transferred their devotion from the bull-ring to the dog pit. Dog-fighting had long been very popular and bulldogs had been crossed with various terriers to produce the combination of dauntless courage with agility and endurance which was even more necessary in the pit than the ring. At first, the resulting crossbreds, which must have been anything but uniform, were called "bull-and-terriers" and, as the best of them were used for breeding, a new breed was gradually evolved which became known as 'bull terriers." Some of these bull terriers took after their bulldog ancestors and were quite heavy "cloddy" dogs of up to 50 lbs in weight. Others, which took after the terriers, were only between 10 and 20 lbs. There was no "type", as the term is understood by modern dog-breeders. Men did not care what they looked like so long as they would fight; and, if they would not fight, they went in the water-butt no matter how good looking they were.
Between 1860 and 1870 these bull terriers were split into two camps. James Hinks, of Birmingham, who had always loved a game dog, produced a white strain which he registered at the Kennel Club as "English Bull Terriers". It is believed that they were produced by crossing the original bull terriers with Dalmatians, and much of their gameness was quickly sacrificed for looks, which was the only commodity paying dividends in the show ring. The original breed, which was still unspoilt by crossing with dogs which had not been bred for gameness, was now barred from the official title of Bull Terrier and it gradually became known as the Staffordshire Bull Terrier to distinguish it from the newer breed. The reason that Staffordshire was used as the qualifying term, to distinguish between the old and the new, was that the colliers and ironworkers of Staffordshire were so attached to dog-fighting that the sport became practically localised in the Midlands.
Half a century went by without the popularity of dog fighting waning, despite spasmodic brushes with the police. Nothing had been done to standardise any type, for courage and physical fitness were still the only things which mattered. Any dog which proved unusually successful in the pit was certain to be used as a sire irrespective of his looks and there was still a wide variation of types which have since become curiously localised. In the Walsall district it is common to find dogs of 34-38 lbs which are tall enough to convey a suggestion of whippet in their ancestry. My own theory of this is that a faint cross of bull terrier was sometimes used to impart endurance to whippets and it is possible that the offspring of one of these crosses displayed sufficient aptitude for fighting to have been crossed back to bull terriers, for agility in the pit is as necessary as courage. Only a few miles from Walsall, in the Darlaston district, the Staffords obviously favour their terrier forbears. They are much "finer" in the muzzle and obviously "terrier faced." They are smaller altogether and lighter boned, turning the scale at from 25-38 lbs, and occasionally] even lighter. The Darlaston men say all the others "must have been crossed with mastiff" and that "theirs" are the only real Staffords.
To confound them both, there is a third type to be found in the Cradley Heath area a few miles to the west. This time it is obvious that some members in the pedigree had more than a nodding acquaintance with a bulldog. Short, thick muzzle and broad skull, tremendous spring of ribs and breadth of chest, muscles which seem to be symbolic of power, everything combines to convey an impression of doggedness. This time agility has been sacrificed for strength and yet there is an unmistakable resemblance between all three types. The expression of the face is the same and the way the tail is carried drooping like a pump handle; the characteristic high-pitched staccato bark and the mincing springy walk, which emphasises the constant craving for action. Who can say that one type is "right" and the others "wrong"? Who can say that this dog is a "real" Stafford and that is not? Until very recent years, nobody minded very much so long as each was willing to give a good account in the pit. But that is changing now.
In 1935 it occurred to a band of owners that, as the police had become so extra-ordinarily fussy about dog-fighting since the Great War, it might be a good idea to arrange dog-shows as an alternative attraction. Accordingly, a schedule was drawn up to depict a scale of points for judging and the Kennel Club obliged by "recognising" the breed as the Staffordshire Bull Terrier.
It was natural that the men who drew up the scale of points should model their ideal from their own particular strains, which happened to be the "bulldoggy" type in favour in the Cradley Heath district. The result has been very far-reaching. Due to the publicity acquired from organised dog shows the popularity of Staffords has soared and their market value has been inflated in the same ratio. This attracted a new type of owner who is interested more in the value than the gameness of the breed, and who is loud in his assertion that the show type is "right" and that the show enthusiasts will "standardise" the breed and eradicate all which do not conform to the standard.
I feel very sorry about all this for I think it is a great pity to try to "breed out" all the types which do not conform to such an arbitrary standard. Fighting was the original purpose of the breed, yet all which do not waddle round the show ring without any display of fire are penalised. I have heard long arguments about which type is best for the pit. Some like the "reachey" dog, like the Walsall breed, because he can "fight down" on his adversary. Some like the stocky Cradley type because they are hard to knock off their feet. Some like the little terrier-like dogs which are so nippy and can do such damage by shaking. In the pit one triumphs today and another tomorrow. Despite the fact that failures were not given the opportunity to perpetuate their like, there were many good dogs of each type that there could have been nothing to choose for prowess. Yet the money to be by made by selling "pedigree" dogs is inducing owners not only to "standardise" to an arbitrary type but to exaggerate the points of that type, so that it appears more powerful by being thicker and lower to ground and bigger in skull than was any dog which fought in the pit.
This extraordinary variation in type of Staffords is by no means confined to physical appearance. All good Staffords are game, but some are essentially boisterous and rough while others are equally docile and gentle, both characteristics being passed on through strains as definitely as physical appearance. Two very famous dogs, which I happen to have known very well, exhibited these tendencies to a marked degree--Ch. Gentleman Jim and Great Bomber. Jim was all that his name implies, and generally speaking his offspring are tractable, intelligent and easily trained. Bomber on the other hand just could not keep still, was overflowing with boisterous friendliness and extremely headstrong. His type need an exceptionally firm (and occasionally heavy!) hand to control, whereas it is easy to hurt the gentler type's feelings and make them deeply offended with a few harsh words.
No dogs are physically tougher than Staffords, for they seem almost impervious to pain. I have seen my own bitch, which is "broken" to ferrets, go into the ferret pen to see what she can scrounge. One of the ferrets "pinned" her through the lip and hung on, which must have been pretty painful. Yet she didn't get annoyed or make any fuss but calmly came to find me to have it throttled off. It is this indifference to pain which makes them such peerless fighting dogs. Almost any dog will fight if he is winning, but it takes an exceptional dog to fight a long losing battle and then go back for more, when he has the chance not to; yet a good Stafford will go back so long as he can crawl across. Despite this the breed is not naturally pugnacious, and it is unusual for a Stafford to begin his first fight. He is either "set on" by someone or attacked and fights back in self defense. But once he (or she, for bitches will fight) has tried fighting there is nothing they would rather do. And that is why I advise no one but a real enthusiast to embark upon the ownership of one of these dogs. The man who wants a dog for a household pet, but who expects it to run loose and look after itself will soon regret his choice. I have known them run loose in the streets and play with other dogs for two or three years. But sooner or later they either get hurt playing or mixed up in someone else's quarrel and suddenly realise what fun they have missed. From that time forth they need no second invitation and they fight to kill. Neither water nor any of the usual remedies will part them and I have seen a dog fighting a collie twice his size in a canal, where the owner of the collie had thrown them to part them. But the terrier could not loose and they both very nearly drowned before we could get them out. And owners who are not enthusiastic are often averse to getting sufficiently mixed up in the bother to choke their dog off, which is the only effective way.
Anyone who is willing to take the necessary pains to train and exercise a potential handful of trouble will be amply rewarded by finding it far less onerous than he thought. He will get devotion undreamed of in lesser breeds-and "Stafford men" regard all other breeds as curs. He will get a dog which is a peerless companion for children, though it will be necessary to watch that he doesn't "help" too vigorously if his young master has a quarrel with a playmate. He will have a dog which is unbeatable on rats and will be game to have a go at any other quarry his master selects. Some Staffords have made very fine gun dogs but, oddly enough, a high proportion are gun-shy, though often not initially. My own bitch for instance, came shooting quite happily at the beginning of her first season. She gradually took a dislike to the gun and it almost seemed as if it wasn't the bang to which she objected but that she came to realise that something got killed when it went off and that my marksmanship wasn't so hot. Similarly many Staffords make fine water-dogs and I have seen them matched to beat spaniels and retrievers over a distance, but it is necessary to introduce them to water gradually and in warm weather, or they often will not take to it at all.
In a word, the Stafford is a dog of very exceptional character. Take great pains to develop it and direct it into useful channels and there is no breed in the world as good. Let it grow haphazard without training or care and you will have a villain whose only aim in life is to fight. "And to keep a fighting dog", they say, "you have to be a fighting man."
Origins of the Staffordshire bull terrier
Origins of the Staffordshire bull terrier
Origins of the Staffordshire bull terrier
By Fred Phillips
The origins of the Staffordshire bull Terrier have never been told. Although books were written in the 1930’s none have ever given any description of the dog’s and bitche’s our present day dog have originated from. I know that a great deal of controvesy will start when I say; that in my opinion there was very little of the Bull Dog in the make-up of the Stafford. The only thing I think compares the Bull Dog to the Stafford is it’s courage. The old Bulldog’s were more like a Stafford than the present day Bull Dog, but it would be a NIGHTMARE to to-days Stafford breeder if his stock looked anything like a Bull Dog.
The Staffords head should be tight without wrinkle over both skull and foreface and without any sign of lippiness. A lippy dog, if fought,would be in risk of loosing half of his face in the first few seconds of any serious encounter.The essential thing is that a dogs appearance should convey his ability to do his rightful work.,even if he is never fought and only for the show.The Bull dog’s mouth is undesirable for the Stafford and the prized flews of the Bull Dog are well and truly out when it comes to the Stafford. The dish face and down face, and the head without a stop, should also be avoided.
The White English Terrier, now extinct, had all the similarities of the Stafford, other than showing great strength and power for his size. The head was as clean-cut as the Staffords but not stronge enough or as deep through enough to fit a well balanced Stafford.The head resembled a wedge, were a Stafford should resemble a half brick.The skull and foreface of the English White Terrier were parallel, to each other, thus avoiding either dish or down face, and the stop of a Stafford should be deep as it determines the size and shape of the eye, which should be round and shallow. The foreign eye shapes appear to destroy the typical expression. Ears were small and rose shape, if they were large they were cropped. The neck of the English was longer than the Stafford without the power needed. The old-timmers wanted a neck of reasonable length and great strength and demanded a crest of the neck. This permitted a wide range of vision without presenting a vulnerable target, and gave the Stafford a regal stance
The front of a Stafford is of great importance. The legs must be set in line and squarley underneath the shoulders, with the rounded briscket lying snugly between them. The legs should be straight to the pasterns, with the feet turning out a little, this is to allow the dog to brace himself on being attacked and better able to resist being thrown, or bowled over, similar to a wrestler taking a stance. The structural efficiency was of great importance to two evenly matched Staffords.Many judges admire the great bredth of chest and shoulders and large head, without determing wether the exhibit is in balance and many broad fronted dogs have what is known as a Buul dog front with no breadth of rib- cage,and no indentation behind the shoulders into the ribs. The Stafford should be nothing like the Buuldog whose shoulders appear to be just tacked with the body slung between them.
Breeders to-day are trying to breed dogs like there terrier ancestors, not like the bulldog which they are supposed to have come from.The faults which are know so noticeable came from the bulldog,not the White English terrier,and I state that the top line should be level,another attribute that is totaly unlike the bulldog,who has a pronounced dip behind the shoulders with a roached back and stern higher than the shoulder.We do not want the straight stifle and hock of the bulldog. When the Stafford is veiwed from behind, the hind legs should be straight in line from hip to foot, again the shape of the terrier with the bone of the bulldog, and without the cowhocks, which were such a feature of the bulldog.
The Stafford is or should be a strongly built compact dog, and the one’s termed very square are of the ideal type.The rib cage should extend for a good two thirds of the body,with a very short space between the last rib and the hind quaters. This correct conformation gives that charictoristic devil-may-care gait that is so different to other terriers, which have narrow shoulders and rib-cage and slightly longer back, making there movment like an articulated truck. Hence all that desired compactness is lost. The Stafford strike one as jaunty and very light on his feet, despite his stronge build. He should never appear to be ponderous or give the impression of which is found in the bulldog ‘cloddy type dogs’. Terriers which we which we can persume to be part of the Staffords make up and similar to the Manchester would have been similar in type to the English white terrier the main difference being the colour. Liverand black and tan were not to be encouraged. A black bull dog is never seen,as the bulldog’s standard bars this colour. Therfore if the Stafford came from the white English terrier and the bulldog, how did the black Stafford originate?.After looking back at what was supposed to be the main ancestors of the Stafford, one can only assume that other breeds were also involved in his evalution. Having examined the origin of the Stafford, one moves on to his charicteristics, and it is from the past history the modern day dog inherits his charicter of indomitable courage and high itelligence, his great affection for his freinds, family, children and his total trustworthy stability makes him the foremost all purpose dog.
The Stafford is not indiscriminately aggresive towards other dogs, but if challenged usually responds with eager and brisckness and his memory is long. If he is attacked by a dog of another breed he will harbour an intence dislike for that breed in or out of the show.
The Staffy Bull by Charles Barker (poem)
The Staffy Bull
Staffie, loi et cetera ...
Staffie, loi et cetera ...
Cette race chère à nos coeurs, a une histoire, ces 3 mots ont une raison d'être et n'ont pas été choisis par hasard, on ne peut changer cela uniquement pour faire entrer le Staffie dans une loi, une case, une catégorie.
Un Bull terrier du Staffordshire, n'est pas un Terrier du Staffordshire ...
Un Berger Americain n'est pas un Berger Allemand, ni un Berger Belge même si le nom est similaire.
Le Staffie n'est donc pas un chien inscrit dans la 1ère, 2ème, 3ème, ..., 50 ème catégorie.
C'est forte de cet argumentaire et du dossier que j'avais constitué que j'ai défendu Mes Staffies/Les Staffies auprès de la mairie de mon domicile.
Comme je l'avais dit à la police ce jour là, je me battrai pour mes Staffies !
Je tiens à la disposition de toute personne ayant des soucis avec les administrations et les forces de l'ordre un dossier complet prouvant que le Staffie n'appartient à aucune catégorie, à part celle du meilleur chien de l'univers ^^.
Namasté
Chris.
06 47 35 90 44
Hints for the novice; by Joe Dunn 1935
Hints for the novice; by Joe Dunn 1935
Hints for the novice; by Joe Dunn 1935
1. Exhibitors should not be in too great a hurry to *get there*. Knowledge can be aquired by actual experience and by paying for such. Experience is undoubtedly the best, and by gaining this slowly the desired object is more quickly achieved
2. When starting in the fancy go to someone of repute, state your wants and the price you are prepared to pay. You will be advised honestly and your foundation will be sound.
3. Purchase only good strains
4. Dont go to extremes in size, some judges like big ones, whilst others like to put up little ones, a 34 pund stafford is a safe size
5. Go to shows as often as you can, getting your terriers to show themselves requires great patience. A good terrier will ruin its chances by being aggressive or shy
6. Follow the judging and try to understand it and pick out for yourself the merits and faults in the exhibits
7. Be unscrupulously clean in your kennels. Give your dog plenty of freedom
8. Dont put too much faith in the opinions of your friends, take your dog to a show, enter in one class, you will then get the opinions of an expert. After the judging is over ask the judge his opinion as to the faults and the good points of your dog. You will find he will readily give you his opinion
9. If you intend breeding and have secured a bitch, try mating her with a dog that will correct her faults. Do not think the successful show dog is bound to be more a successful sire, it is much better to mate her to a proved sire, also make sure the dog is sound
10. Feeding is a big item where the general health of the dog is concerned, each owner has his own way as to the feeding of his dog.
The SBT Body by John F Gordon
The SBT Body by John F Gordon
The body should be close coupled, with a level topline, wide front, deep brisket and well sprung ribs, being rather light in the loins
the body of the staffordshire must show to even the casual observer, great strength for its size and considerable springiness in body structure. A deep brisket, neck to chest region, should have no evidence of pinching and the chest itself should be profound. Viewed in profile, the line of the chest in an animal in good contour would run through the point of the elbow. Massive shoulders without loaded muscle are essential to his powerful make up and the same applies to a big rib cage, protective framework for a great heart and adequate respiratory machinery. The ribs should shorten as they approach the loin, producing a moderate tuck. the sides and loins need to be well filled out with muscle not fat. Fatness is anathema in a staffordshire bull terrier and should be consdiered seriously against the dog by any judge who admires the breed.
Look for: a good level topline and compact couplings, that part of the body between the last ribs and hip joints, connected to the backbone. Try and imagine the dog fitted into a square. If he fits nicely, he is sure to be compact and well balanced which is in his favour. Keep an open eye for the bad sway back. This is evidenced by a dip behind the shoulders, due to poor rib development. The roach back is shown by a convex backline, commencing from a dip at the withers to another at the tail set on. This is an objectionable fault in the breed and is due to abnormal arching of the spine, often accompanied by proppy shoulders.
The development of the Bulldog
The development of the Bulldog
It is certainly a great achievement that the modern bulldog, without the application of force to cause deformities, has the very developments which in earlier times were rare, and when present, more often than not, were the result of maltreatment.
When bull-baiting and dog-fighting ended, the dog was bred for "fancy," and characteristics desired at earlier times for fighting and baiting purposes were exaggerated, so that the unfortunate dog became unhappily abnormal. In this transition stage huge, broad, ungainly heads were obtained, legs widely bowed were developed, and frequently the dog was a cripple. Then gradually the desired points were rounded off and the transition stage had passed. How these changes of type were obtained is difficult to say. Even now, when the abnormalities are no longer so exaggerated, the modern variety would have no chance to succeed as a bull-baiting dog, but for that purpose he is no longer required.
The earliest mention of a bulldog occurs in a letter written in 1632 from St. Sebastian by Prestwick Eaton to one George Willingham, of St. Swithin's Lane, London, now in the Record Office. " Pray," it reads, " procuer mee two good Bulldoggs, and let them be sent by ye first shipp " ; but it is very questionable as to what the writer meant by the word "Bulldogs," whether merely a smaller mastiff or bandog. The bulldog then was certainly not the bulldog of to-day, for even a hundred years later, sporting prints and such illustrations as shown by Bewick in I790, and by subsequent artists in the works of Taplin, Bell, and Colonel H. Smith prove this so. Earlier illustrations, these occurring in illuminated manuscripts, woodcuts, early etchings, and engravings as well as descriptions, suggest that the bulldog as we know him did not exist. Dr. Caius, Gesner, Abraham Fleming, Aldrovandus, had not heard of such a dog, authorities only too anxious to discover strange forms of life. Certainly in Dr. Caius' letter to Gesner we find a mention of dogs used by butchers, known naturally enough as butchers' dogs, probably the first step in the naming of the breed. We see that this is more than likely the explanation, for, according to Dickson in his work on the breeding of livestock of 1823, he shows a picture of a dog, naming it "Bulldog or Beast dog," the word "beast" of course being a rural expression for cattle.
The butcher, requiring a dog to bring up his cattle, naturally valued the dog the more if able to face a bull when such necessity arose. Quite possibly, therefore, the word bulldog was used instead of butchers' dog, to describe such a mastiff or mastiff-type animal more fleet on foot than the heavier variety. The popularity of bullbaiting acted as an incentive to butchers able to practice in the precincts of the slaughter-house, "trying" their dogs and developing their art. A good bull-facing dog was of some monetary value and could be disposed of to some of the wealthier frequenters of this sport. The phrase "a dog for bull-baiting" would be shortened into "a bull-baiting dog" and "a bull dog." Thus the term "bulldog" would pass into the language. But the bulldog then was nothing like the bulldog of to-day.
Whitaker, in I77I, describes the bulldog, but does not allude to the type of head for which the breed is to-day noted, nor to the bow legs and bow body. Illustrations of I775 show the bulldog to be long-legged and with the face of a mastiff, and in Linnaeus's work (I792) the bulldog is named mollosus.
Even if all this was not enough, examinations of the butchers' dog or bulldog depicted by Bewick and on prints of later times show that the variety was without doubt a small mastiff. with a comparatively long head. We might suggest, as an explanation, that the word "mastiff" was dropped when describing these smaller mastiffs, as the mastiff proper was found too slow for butchers' work and at a disadvantage when facing a bull. The introduction of greyhound crosses, the later held in high esteem for speed, would be popular, so that butchers' dogs or bulldogs, faster than the mastiff and yet retaining that breed's ferocity, were evolved. Here was a step to reduce size and weight and increase speed, and the greyhound can be seen in specimens of that time.
The seventeenth and eighteenth centuries were the heyday of the sport of bullbaiting and dog-fighting in England, and the development of the breed on special lines was to be expected. Bull-baiting, though varying considerably from time to time, could be divided into what is known as the "let-go" and "turn-loose" matches, both needing dogs of considerable ferocity and perseverance, but also dogs quick in their movements. But the bulldog, though mainly engaged in bull-baiting, was also in great favor as a dog-fighter.
In dog-fighting speed of movement was of little importance, for a dog able to keep its body lose to the ground had the advantage. Whilst bull-baiting, therefore, caused certain developments, the dog-pit was responsible for others. At bull-baiting the dogs entered into a "turn-loose" match were liberated two or sometimes three at the same time, whilst in the "let-go" match the dogs were let go alternately, each dog having its second, who ran towards the bull with it, to goad it on. We might add that in these "let-go" matches, to show the sporting spirit of fair play, the bull had its second, who by shouting "Halloo" gave it notice of the loosing of the dog. Some bulls, we read, would dig a hole to put their noses in, and in some contests a hole was prepared for their use.
But though here and there, and very frequently perhaps, bull-baiting was an organized sport, many a meeting took place without any consideration of rules and was engaged in by dogs of all kinds, irrespective of breeding, size, or shape. So any dog might be a bulldog, though it appears that by common consent the mastiff type was considered to be justified with the title.
Bull-baiting was, more often than not, a bull securely tethered to a stake or a ring fastened into the roadway, stirred up into a paroxysm of madness by a crowd of men, armed with instruments of torture, and a numerous assembly of dogs of all kinds. Taplin gives us a vivid description of such a scene, the bringing-up of the purchased bull with the herd of cows, his separating from them, and his leading through the streets on a chain, and a rope attached to a stout leather collar round his neck, his horns quite possibly muffled with tow, tallow, and pitch. The bull was led through a crowd of ribald onlookers, [For many days before, every heart beats high with the coming joy . . . every window is filled with children to enjoy the scene, not a street or avenue but is crowded."-Taplin.] and doubtlessly great care was taken not to excite him by ill-usage whilst he had good opportunity to use his great strength. As soon as he was tethered to the stake the attack started; hissing, shouting, and waving hats, and the blows from sticks from all sides, and the twisting of the tail or the pointed sticks driven into the body, woke the bull up. Surrounded by enemies, in a frenzied condition of blood-lust, the sport for which he was intended commenced. The noise grew worse as the unfortunate bull, roaring with pain and fear, and the madness to end it all, had the dogs attacking his head and seizing on to his nostrils.
Once held, the bull was more than ever at the mercy of his enemies and could be subject to inconceivable cruelty. A time came when agony and misery brought no amusing nervous response, and we read how on one occasion a bull beaten by the torment had boiling water poured into his ears to liven him up to a more sporting spirit.
By a will dated May I5, 1661, one George Staverton gave the whole rent of his dwelling-house, situated at Staines, in Middlesex (after two years), to buy a bull annually for ever; which bull he gave to the poor of the town of Wokingham, in Berkshire, to be there baited, then killed and divided. (In revenge because he was once chased by a dull.-E. FARMAN) He instructed that the offal, hide, and gift-money (collected from the spectators) were to be laid out in shoes and stockings to be distributed among the children of the poor, the chief Alderman and one Staverton (if one of the name should be living in the town or neighbourhood) to see the work truly and justly performed, that "one of the poor's piece did not exceed another in bigness."
The bulldog was able to afford other forms of amusement as well as facing bulls or other dogs in combat. In the reign of Queen Anne, an advertisement tells us that on a Monday as well as a great match to be fought between two dogs of Hampstead at the "Reading Bull" for one guinea "to be spent," and the "fairest Bull of fireworks," bear-baiting, and other forms of bull-baiting, a bulldog was also to be drawn up with fireworks. Pepys went to a bull-baiting at Southwark on August 4, 1666, when a dog was tossed into the boxes-"a very rude and nasty pleasure," he writes.
At a bull-baiting at Bury St. Edmunds in 1801, the bull-baiters hacked off all four hoofs, during the early stages of the affair, leaving the unfortunate bull to face his tormentors on bleeding stumps.
Whether such a variety as the bulldog would have existed at all if the sport of dog-fighting and bull-baiting had not been popular is difficult to say. But it seems more than likely that no such breed would have been evolved.
It was during the bull-baiting times that dogs were required about 16 inches high weighing up to 45 lb., and attempts were made to breed such dogs, able to hold on to a bull, without being compelled to leave go to obtain its breath. It seems to me quite possible that pug-dog crosses, or even pug-dogs, were used to cross with the smaller mastiffs, crossed-greyhound to obtain the desired shortened head. Certainly Edwards's description of a bulldog and his illustration of 1800 somewhat substantiates such a suggestion, and indeed he even mentions that this may be a solution of the development of the bulldog type.
Under the title of Canis pugnax he describes the variety to have a round head, underhanging jaw, and smooth coat, and states that he believes that " probably by accident or design " a mixture of the pug-dog and mastiff took place, and suggests as the pug has been bred small and their original size must have been much larger, that such a cross was feasible.
Bulldogs, he tells us, stood 18 inches high, and weighed about 36 lb.
The round full head and short muzzle, small ears, which he describes, are similar characteristics to those of to-day, but in some ways the characteristics are decidedly out when compared to modern types. We read that in some the ears are turned down; in others they were perfectly erect and such were called Tulip-eared. (Typical of French Bulldogs, but a serious fault in the bulldog proper.)
The chest, Edwards tells us, was to be wide, the body round, the limbs muscular and strong, the tail thin and tapering, and in some curling over the back, in others hanging down, Those with tails with a downward carriage, "rarely erected, except when excited," were termed tiger-tailed, and appeared to be rare. He tells us also that the skins were to be loose, "thick particularly about the neck, the hair short, the hind feet turned inwards, hocks rather approaching each other," "which seems to obstruct their speed in running, but is admirably adapted to progressive motion when combating in their bellies," and that "the most characteristic point the under jaw, almost uniformly projecting beyond the upper."
In I799 there was a classic fight between a monkey and a bulldog, but the bulldog depicted is a small and lighter mastiff and not the pug-like bulldog shown by Edwards. The fight, indeed, was to be the slaughter of the monkey, but it turned out otherwise. An engraving of the scene is given in the "Sporting Magazine" of I779, with the following description:
A curious battle took place at Worcester, between these two animals, on a wager of three guineas to one, that the dog killed the monkey in six minutes ; the owner of the dog agreed to permit the monkey to use a stick about a foot long. Hundreds of spectators assembled to witness the fight, and bets ran eight, nine, and ten to one in favour of the dog, which could hardly be held in. The owner of the monkey taking from his side pocket a thick round ruler, about a foot long, threw it into the paw of the monkey, saying, "Now, Jack, look sharp, mind that dog." "Then here goes for your monkey "cried the butcher, letting the dog loose, which flew with tiger-like fierceness. The monkey, with astonishing agility, sprang at least a yard high, and falling upon the dog, laid fast hold of the back of the neck with his teeth, seizing one ear with his left paw, so as to prevent his turning to bite. In this unexpected situation, Jack fell to work with his ruler upon the head of the dog, which he beat so forcibly and rapidly that the creature cried out most eloquently. In short, the skull was soon fractured, and the dog was carried off in nearly a lifeless state. The monkey was of middle size. A famous monkey to fight dogs successfully was kept at Westminster. This monkey, when attacked, bled the dog to death.
In 1801 a bulldog, also of mastiff type, was tried against a man, and, though handicapped by being partly muzzled, yet did considerable damage to his opponent. The "Sporting Times" gives an engraving of the scene:
"An engagement took place between a Gentleman and a Bulldog; (for a wager) some time ago. On the sett too, the Bulldog so far mastered his adversary as to bring him to the ground; and, notwithstanding the animal's mouth was nearly closed by the muzzle, he fastened on the body of the Gentleman; and if not instantly taken off, would have torn out his bowels."
One of the first serious attempts to put an end to bull-baiting was a Bill introduced into Parliament in 18O2. We read that " The pluck of the English nation would certainly decrease, if the Bill became Law."[Mr. Windham, in opposition to the Bill.] So strong Was the resistance, and so plausible the arguments, the Bill being labelled as a conspiracy of Jacobins and Methodists to make life dull and to bring to an end constitutional Government, that it was defeated by I3 votes. A second attempt was made in 1829, but it met with similar treatment, being defeated by 45 votes. But much spade-work had been done, and there was hardly a reference to the bulldog made in speeches or in writing that did not refer to its moral turpitude, and the awful part it played[Further accounts of bull-baiting appear in "Dogs in English History.] in the sickening scenes of cruelty.[There was considerable feeling on this question. At the end of the eighteenth century and early in the nineteenth century writers describe the bulldog as "the criminal of the canine world as a monster of ferocity.]
Bull-baiting, thanks greatly to the outspoken criticism of a clergyman of the Church of England, [The Rev. Dr. Barry in I802.] became less popular, and in 1853 was prohibited by law. But the it sport " had done its work; the bulldog had been developed to be a dog of remarkable tenacity and endurance. At a bull-baiting in the North of England a man for a small wager cut off the feet of his dog, one by one, whilst it was holding on to a bull ; and it is recorded that a butcher on another occasion, in order to sell his bulldog puppies, cut the bitch, then very old, and almost toothless, after she had pinned the bull, into several pieces with a bill-hook. The puppies were immediately sold for 5 guineas apiece.[ Sheridan, in his speech in favour of a Bill to abolish bull-baiting (18O2).] On both occasions the dog held on whilst being mutilated, in the latter until dead.
As well as tenacity and endurance, the bulldog " fashion " required a dog on stout legs, nimble and quick, though overmuch size was then not desired, and to be able to " play low," as it was termed, was considered an advantage. This " play low " gave the dog the power to keep close down to the ground, below horn-level, if it was possible. It led to a development towards shorter legs and bow-shaped body. These latter characteristics were more than ever important in dog-fighting, and so when bull-baiting ceased, the minds of bulldog breeders were centered on the development of the bow legs and short front legs. Cropping was necessary and the ears of the bulldog were cut off close to the head, thus preventing an adversary from obtaining a grip there.
The forebodings of writers who feared the extinction of the bulldog breed if bullbaiting ceased [The last recorded bull-baiting took place at West Derby in 1833.] proved incorrect. Dog-fighting was allowed and was immensely popular.
Of the many rendezvous the Westminster Pit was a noted one, and here sportsmen of all grades of the Society of the Metropolis and sightseers from other parts of the world congregated. We read in contemporary accounts of the dogs held by their backers, howling with rage, or " in a silence still more ominous," eyeing each other, with their " tongues licking their jaws." We can imagine the gasping, growling, and barking of those held waiting their turn. Some would make for the head, others the throat, others for the legs. In a silence only broken by the sharp, short, tense breathing, they fought it out. When a dog released its hold, a round ended, the seconds then sponged and wiped the fighters. A fight might last a few minutes, some lasted for three or more hours.
Two noted dogs, "Young Storm" and "Old Storm," each weighing nearly 70 lb., had won every contest in which they had been entered. "Old Storm" on two occasions had brought the fight to an end by killing his adversary, and "Young Storm" at two years old had fought four combats of over an hour each.
There was a dog "Belcher," the winner of I04 battles, the property of noted prize-fighters of that day. At one time Humphreys had him, and later Johnson and Ward. Ward sold the dog to Mellish for 20 guineas, and it was from him that Lord Camelford obtained him, at a cost of a favourite gun and a brace of pistols. No pedigrees were kept, and "Old Storm" and "Young Storm" and "Belcher" may or may not be the ancestor of some of the dogs of to-day.
A play-bill of 1819 advertises a match between two dogs the property of a sporting nobleman, weighing 43 lb. each, to take place at the Westminster Pit for 100 guineas, the contest being between "that famous white bitch of Paddington whose wonderful performances are so well known to require no further comment," and a brindle dog of Cambridge, "a remarkable and well-known favourite, as his form bears extensive proof."
On January 18, at the same Pit, "‘Boney’ a well celebrated dog" and "a novice" "Gas," lately introduced to the Fancy by Charley, to whom the dog belongs,"were to meet, the stakes to be L40. On this occasion the pit is fully described. It was illuminated with great splendour, "an ellegant chandelier and a profusion of waxlights, "and it proved a great attraction, as nearly 300 persons were present. At 8 p.m. the battle started. Though " Gas " had taken the lead from the very first, the celebrated dog "Boney" was favourite at 3 to 1 until the last ten minutes, and at the end of one hour and fifty minutes "Boney" was carried out insensible, the novice lately introduced to the Fancy by Charley had won. We read particulars of "the bleeding" and the recovery.
So popular were these dog-fights that to fail to know the name of a bulldog was to prove oneself out of touch with the world's affairs. Jesse [Researches into the History of the British Dog (1866)] tells us that a relative, while riding through Wednesbury, stopped at the toll-gates, on hearing the church bells ringing, and asked the reason. "‘Old Sal's’ brought to bed!" came the answer. Being none the wiser, he inquired who this "Old Sal" might be. "‘Old Sal!’ ‘Old Sal!’" he repeated as if addressing a deaf person-"don't you know who ‘Old Sal’ is?"
Then the toll-keeper explained that "Old Sal," a somewhat ancient but celebrated bullbitch, had just borne her first litter of puppies, and the bells were sending glad news around the countryside.
But dog-fighting came to an end, the law stepped in. It continued for some years, taking longer to die than bull-baiting! The latter attracted attention, but a dog-fight could be carried out successfully with few being any the wiser. Often at night the company would collect in a backyard, or clear away the forms and tables in the bar-parlor.
In 1871 an article in a Birmingham paper describes a dog-fight at Walsall: Dog-fights, according to this authority, were constantly taking place. Visitors were subject to careful scrutiny and a detective had little chance of obtaining admittance.
The "old-world" bulldog fancier, to whom bulldog-fighting was a means of sustenance, gradually died out. Such a man was Ben White, who had a "trial ground" in Harper's Field, and later in Old Conduit Field, Bayswater, where clients could try the dogs either on some unfortunate badger or in combat with each other. After the death of Ben White, Bill George took over, altered the name to "Canine Castle," and there, with a change of name, changed the tone of the place. Dog dealing was his business: times had changed, the dog show era was starting.
Bill George [Bill George died on the 4th of June I884 at the age of seventy-nine.] became noted as a reliable authority on all and every breed. His business methods were above criticism and his name became a hall-mark, especially in the bulldog world.
It is to do with bulldogs that Punch, in 1864, shows us a picture of a pleasant visit to this Canine Castle, and Mr. Punch is evidently taking up as little space as it is possible for mortal man to cover. The bulldogs in barrels; their chains are long; the safety-zone limited! [see page 9 of ABR #14) But these bulldogs are not the broad, powerful, cloddy, short-legged creatures of to-day, though they show a marked step in that direction.
The Rendorn Kennel
The Rendorn Kennel
Norman and Dorothy Berry registered` there Rendorn affix in 1965. They had been active in breeding Staffords in partnership with there friend Mr Norman Entwistle prior to this, when both parties decided to dissolve the partnership and peruse there own separate breeding programs. There early years brought forth the odd decent specimen but nothing to shout about until they struck gold when they mated there bitch Rendorn Rapid Reprisal to Eddie and Mary Pringle’s CH Hurricane of JudaelFrom this litter came CH Rendorn Deadly Nightshade and her brother Rendorn the Mighty Quinn.
Although Nightshade made it to Champion status very easily Quinn did not attain his tittle though he did receive several RCC’s. He did however prove a very valuable asset to the Rendorn breeding program in the years that followed.
Unfortunately Night shade was not able to be bred from and luckily they had kept her litter sister not as good but still having the same bloodline. She was in turn mated to her half brother Brewmaster Sparticus and from this litter came CH Rendorn no Retreat a black brindle. CH Rendorn no Retreat was in turn mated to a dog that has made probably more impression on the breed than any other dog up to this point in time no prizes for guessing his name of course I am talking of CH Black Tusker.
This litter produced another very good Champion bitch in CH Rendorn Devil’s Timpani a very sound and well constructed bitch well of the leg she gained her tittle very quickly and proved her worth as a brood bitch to the kennel producing some very good specimens. No retreat was also mated to Constones Tuscaloosa Sam and produced another flyer in CH Rendorn right marker. Insodently for me Tuscaloosa Sam was very unlucky not to have been made up to Champion status he was very similar in type to CH Spartan Victor although bigger all round.
Meanwhile Timpani had been mated to Quinn and this produced one of the best
dogs of that time who was CH Rendorn Drummer boy of Kazemick. I remember seeing him for the first time at the North West open show when he was only a young dog and was very impressed by him. He was a black brindle well off the leg and very well constructed.
Timpani was also mated to a great favorite of mine who was CH Skean Dhu who was by CH Black Tusker as was Timpani. This mating produced CH Rendorn Apollyon who was for me the best bitch produced by this kennel. She was again well off the leg very good in outline but was stronger in the head than her mother and grand mother but very similar to them in size and shape.She was the last champion bitch to be bred from the kennel and was never bred from. I myself had her brother who sired a few good litters and sired one champion daughter(I would have loved to have owend both).
Norman and Dorothy are no longer active as breeders but still remain very active in the breed as judges and in committee work. Many of there dogs can be found behind allot of to-days winning dogs.They bred a strain of dog’s that by type were easily identified and benefited many a kennel that bought from or used dog’s from the Rendorn kennel.
The Rellim story... by Jack Miller
The Rellim story... by Jack Miller
I was introduced to the S.B.T.in 1949 by a seventeen year old girl who was eventually to become my wife. Therse, was always known by Terry by her friends . We used to take a bitch, Killingworth Bell for walks; she was a bit of a character and we both fell for her. Eventually she had puppies and Terry aquierd a red bitch that we named Terrys Nell.
There was in those days a North Eastern Bull and Staffordshire bull terrier club and although we were not members we were persuaded to show Nell at there open show, the judge on the day being Mr Gerald Dudley (this was about 1952). Nell did very well and we were determined to continue showing and perhapseven start breeding Staffords.
By know by reading the dog press we relised that Gerald Dudley and the world famous Wychbury kennel were connected. Since we had met him at our first show we decided to buy a dog puppy from him. It took six months before Terrys Pip arrived. He was a black brindle with an immense head. Unfortunately he went undershot. Although useless for showing he was Terries special Stafford until he died at 13 years of age.
Terry and I were by now very interested in everything to do with the Sbt, and read everything we could find about the art of breeding dogs, infact the breeding of any stock. We studied pedigrees of winning stock and read many books on genetics. Everything pointed to the necessity to obtaining a very good and well bred specimen of the breed.We decided to contact Gerald Dudley who had the leading kennel at the time to see if we could purchase a well bred brood bitch. I well remember Terry running back from the phone box to say she had been offered CH Wychbury Midly Girl (Queenie). In due course Queenie arrived , she was a beautiful black brindle- three years old.
The Wychbury kennel was being disbanded and Queenie’s half brother CH Wychbury red riband was sold to Dr John Silvera of Newcastle. This was the mating (Midly Girl to her half brother Red Riband) that all our our reading had pointed to and after contacting Gerald and been given the go ahead we went ahead with the mating. It was however the second mating that produced CH Rellim A’Boy
A’Boy was the first to carry the Rellim affix and he did cause a stir within the
Stafford world. Much has been written about this dog and he was consided to be an exceptional specimen for that point in time. His nature was always a puzzle to us at home he was a true gentlemen but out of the house he was very aggressive a kind of Jekyl and Hyde character. Having read reports on temperament we thought he had real Stafford character. Rellim A’Boy (Roger) was a good stud dog but had very few bitches . Transport was problem in those days and people would not travel. However a keen fancier called Sid Craik traveled over from Ireland with his bitch Fury of Drugade. Fury was mated to Roger this line produced Ken Bailey’s
CH Benext Beau. Tom Winter used him on a very good bitch but lost the litter . Maurice Ramshaw from Kelloe mated his Chestoinion bitch to him and this produced CH Rellim Ferryvale Victor
sire of five English champions and many overseas. About this time the kennel took a terrible blow with the death of CH Rellim A’Boy after a short illness..
Second to none...by Alan Greenwood
Second to none...by Alan Greenwood
This is the essence of my article,you should relise that guarding property is not computerd into the mind of our breed but fighting another able bodied dog is. In the days when dog fighting was rife and transport by car was almost nonexistent, fighting dogs were taken to the venue, usually on a Sunday morning and probably by a stranger who would pick him up in a parambulator, more often than not with the baby, which he had never seen before and having his eyes poked or his tail pulled by the baby without any complante at all. Then on arriving at the venue he would be probably passed over to another stranger and yet another disreputable looking human being would come across the ring, maul him about,smell him, lick him and then he was expected to change completly into a perfect fighting machine. After all this was over, if he were still in one piece, the stranger would pour peroxide into the often gapping wounds to stop infection setting in. The strangers that had brought him would then wrap him in a sack to prevent blood getting onto the covers of the pram ; put him in with the baby and wheel hin home. Horrible isn’t it ?. But once you have an incedent of your own , may be by accident or as in my own case by - negligence ( not closing the run door properly and allowing the bitch to rattle the door and open it, there is not much you can keep a Stafford in if she wants to get at another bitch.) Iv’e had 12 gauge chain link torn apart as though it were paper. I had one bitch - Elizebeth( Albert and Betty Eastwood will remember her ) She weighed around 24 lb and went through a plate glass window to get at patch (pin up girl). I’ve had them rip of kennel doors - of no mein thickness, they are houdinis of the canine world when so inclinde!.
So to the novice - take heed if you are at a show and waiting around at the ring side remember they are transmitting and recieving. If the built in switch is triggerd off take evasive action. You will more than likely be warned useually by impulses traveling down the lead and what sounds like a Ferrari in the distance. YOU are in the driving seat take your foot off the accelerator by moving to a safer distance . Dont belt your dog over the head as I have seen done on many occasion’s . You would not strike a Collie if on seeing sheep for the first time if he crept cautiously behind them, waiting for a signle from his owner.
If you are unfortunate to have an incident and there’s no-one to help you, and your pet has hold of another by it’s throat, don’t panic. Keep cool and try to get the handler of the other to do the same. I know it’s easy to give advice but I am talking from experience. Dont what ever you do try and drag the dogs apart- get hold of his collar and twist it firmlly and if possible cover his nostrils to hasten the procedure. What you are doing is cutting of f the breathing so that he has to open his mouth to draw air and it is at that point you whip him away maker sure the handler of the other dog has firm hold of there dog as he will probably what his revenge. In my opinion it is not advisable to thrash a dog - it may appease the other dog owner but on the other hand your dog may think he did not do a good job and promises to do better next time.
WHY DO WE WORSHIP THE BULL AND SACRIFICE THE TERRIER
I think that the old-timers such as Cockney Charlie Lloyd, Joe Dunn, H.N. Beilby, Joe Mallen, and J.T. Barnard would think we have lost our way. The men who formed the first Staffordshire Bull Terrier Club worked their dogs and showed them. They firmly and always held to the belief that a dog should look like it could do what it was bred to do. Since they had practical experience, they knew how a dog should be constructed in order to get the job done. They had this in mind when they wrote the first breed standard in 1935. WHY DO WE WORSHIP THE BULL AND SACRIFICE THE TERRIER
Although sixty-two years have passed, and a new breed standard has been adopted, there have been no significant changes that would effect the over all function of the dog other than the height to weight ratio. The original standard called for dogs to be 13 inches to 18 inches tall. However, the weight of 28 - 38 pounds in relation to height, still applies, and nonconformity with these limits is a fault. If we actually followed the current standard this weight would probably be all right for a show dog, but a bit on the heavy side for a fighting dog.
Since the abolition of dog fighting, Staffords have continued to grow in popularity to the public and dog fancy. Bill Boylan, one of the old-timers, felt that dog showing would be the death knell for the Stafford. He knew that there are always those breeders and show enthusiasts whom might be called "exaggerationists" who when told that a Stafford should have a wide skull, short and strong and muscular body, would breed and show a dog with an extremely wide skull, and short, low stationed, thick body.
Too many of the top winning show dogs enter the ring with a fault -- they do not conform to the standard. Both in the height to weight ratio and in appearance (they do not look like they could do the job they were bred to do).
Today, we are seeing show specimens that may be 16 inches in height, but are weighing 46 - 50 pounds or more. At that height to weight ratio, they would not have the agility or endurance of a fighting dog. I read a description of the Stafford that stated they should be envisioned as a tank in battle, with all the functions of a tank. A tank may be able to climb hills, crush objects by sheer weight, track through water, etc... But a tank is a ponderous piece of equipment, and compared to other equipment used in battle, is more difficult to maneuver. If the old-timers who actually fought their dogs felt that a tank like dog could win in the pit, they would have bred them that way -- they didn't. They wanted a dog that was quick on it's feet, able to spin on it's hindquarters, dodge teeth, lunge forward in an instant, and not run out of gas.
Why do we worship the Bull and sacrifice the Terrier? True strength and agility have always been the cornerstone of the Staffordshire Bull Terrier. When we talk of strength we do not imply the strength of the old massive Bulldog, but rather the graceful balanced strength of the Bull and Terrier. When we talk of agility what we mean is power - the power of free and rapid motion,
Since dog fighting is no longer an appropriate lifestyle for the Staffordshire Bull Terrier, his popularity as a loving and faithful companion continues to grow. When bred to the standard, today's Stafford is active and energetic. He loves to ride in the car, go hiking, jogging, back packing and delights in sharing in his families activities. Although gentle and sweet by nature he can and will protect his human family, if duty calls.
Thankfully, there are still some breeders who have managed to ignore the dictates of fashion and continue to breed Staffordshire Bull Terriers that are true to type. They are the real backbone of the breed for they have taken this pugilistic warrior and turned him into a wonderful modern athlete.
By: Carolyn Stewart
COLOUR CONUNDRUM IN THE U.K.
COLOUR CONUNDRUM IN THE U.K.
COLOUR CONUNDRUM IN THE U.K.
Some while ago I wrote an article about the gradual disappearance, or rarity of the S.B.T. traditional colour of Brindle, that is the Brindle of varying shades, i.e. red, fawn, mahogany, tiger, and all of the different shades of these colours. It seems to me that in time I, or perhaps someone else, will be writing a similar article about the rarity or the decline of the Red, at least in the show ring.
I will endeavour to explain, at a recent S.B.T. Championship Breed Show, I noticed that only one Red was present in both the Open dog and bitch classes, the rest were black and dark brindles, (in classes of well over 25 exhibits), and most of the main awards were won by Dark Brindles, this situation is becoming common practice at many shows, in fact people now regularly comment on the number of dark and black brindles who seem to win most or many of the prizes, and, at many shows, the line up for the challenge for the Challenge Certificates, consists mainly (sometimes all of them) with dark and black brindles.
The question therefore, has to be asked, why is this, why are dark and black brindles becoming a greatly dominant force in the show ring, and why has the traditional brindle (in the showring) almost disappeared, and now the Reds seemingly losing popularity?
I have discussed this matter for some time, with various people, and a number of reasons and observations are offered, i.e.
1/ Breeders of dark or black brindles (and never ever owned or bred Reds) can only see or understand dark or black brindles
when they judge this breed.
2/Dark or black brindles are easier to assess (!)
3/ The reds are not good enough (!)
4/ The brindles are superior.
If the first two solutions are correct, then I can only reach the sad conclusions that this breed is in serious trouble!
And exhibitors who exhibit red dogs are being swindled out of their entry fees! Surely if everyone pays the same entry fees then
everyone is entitled to the same consideration, or perhaps it should be made perfectly clear to all in the schedule, that
Mr. Bloggs, (or Mrs. Bloggs) the judge, will only look at,and only place the dark and black brindles, and will ignore or disregard
the colours that he (or she) does not like or understand!
At least exhibitors with Reds would not have to waste their time and money in entering under such judges! But there can
be no doubt that such judges do exist, but the reason why these judges possess this attitude is beyond my comprehension.
The third reason I cannot except, while agreeing that there are a very large number of excellent quality Dark and Black
Brindles being exhibited, but nevertheless we have seen, at times, quality reds standing down the line behind black or
dark brindles that do not possess the same qualities as those particular Reds.
The third and fourth I cannot except, but I believe that there is some confusion about quality and quantity, the plain fact
is that the Dark and Black Brindles have become extremely popular, and that there are many more Dark and Black Brindles
bred, and not nearly so many Reds. In fact I am always being requested for Red bitches, which only proves my point that
quality red bitches are becoming hard to find, and in fact people who like Reds often wait months to obtain one.
However, we can continually speculate about the possible reasons, but if this situation continues, our breed could develop
problems of coat colour. If breeders continually breed Dark or Black Brindles to other Dark or Black Brindles the more dominate
this colour will become. Carried to extreme limits, the main or only colours of the S.B.T., in say 20 years time, will be Dark or
Black Brindle.instead of the attractive diversity of colours we have at the present.
As I have written in previous articles (which I hope that my faithful reader found interesting) there are over 30 colours and
combinations of colours in this breed, a situation that must be envied by some other breeds.
I have seen litters in the whelping box with various colours, there could be a Red, or two, a Red or Fawn Brindle, and a
variety of shades of Dark Brindles, often the result of breeding Reds to Dark Brindles or Brindles.
The most important point here is the fact that Dark Brindles will only produce Dark or Black Brindles, (if there is no red
background in either of the Sire and Dam,) and no other colour, except of course when mated to a Red, when then we
may see the variety of colours, i.e. Reds, Dark Brindles, and Traditional Brindles!
Therefore, we can clearly see the great importance of the Red colour in breeding, if we are going to keep all the various
colours, if we do not appreciate or value this colour, then there can be no doubt about the final outcome.
There are of other vital reasons in keeping our valuable diversity of colour, firstly the Pigmentation factor, (i.e. intensity
of colour, and markings, black toenails and eyerims, etc.) There can be no doubt that the mixing of colours considerably
helps to keep or improve pigmentation. Continual breeding of Red to Red, or Dark or Black Brindle to Dark or Black Brindle
will only result in the eventual deterioration of good pigmentation. I have seen poor pigmentation in all colours, because
of such breeding, the signs are all too obvious, grey noses, washed out brindles (often refered to as Blues), grey eyerims,
with ‘spectacles’, lack of hair inside the thighs, white or fawn toenails, and so on.
Another obvious reason for the mixing of colours in our breeding, is that it helps to improve or keep the correct texture of
coat, dogs from mainly Dark or Black Brindle breeding sometimes have harsh coats, mainly along their backs, whereas dogs
from mixed colour breeding usually have close coats of the desired texture.
At this juncture I would make it clear that I like and admire the Dark and Black Brindles, and had the fortune to have ‘made
up’ 3 Dark Brindle Champions, but I also like and appreciate the Reds!
Colour breeding :
The following GENERAL ( or GUIDE LINES) rules of colour breeding are as follows
Red to red produce only reds,
Red to Dark Brindle, produce reds, traditional brindles of various shades, dark brindles
Dark brindle to Dark Brindle (if one or more of the parents of the pair is red) produce,
Reds and dark brindles, and possibly red or fawn brindles.
Black brindle to black brindle, produce only black brindles
Traditional brindle (any brindle carrying red) to any kind of brindle, produce reds, various shades of brindle
White to white, produce all whites with various small markings.
It is important to note that the colour of the parents of the mating pair, play an important part in the colour of the puppies.
White to any solid colour often produces solid colours and/or pieds
ALEC WATERS (ASHSTOCK)
Interesting old text
Interesting old text
Someone once told me ‘Dare to overcome the pretense of common discretion, and prioritize the standard elements of the Stafford’s makeup according to his intent rather than popular fashion. By all means, form an opinion, but form one with regard to the original, athletic purposes of the Stafford, and not just what looks pretty or impressive to others.' When evaluating Staffords, the ideal image that comes to mind should be initialized by the basic elements of balance, agility, and great, efficient strength. These things should be considered before the details such as ear carriage, tail set, and topline are put under scrutiny.
It is true that a negative detail such as overloaded shoulders can throw off the entire picture of a Stafford, but the first thing that should be addressed is the general assessment of balance, not the questionable manifestation of some verbiage set forth in the standard. Here, we are often guilty of only arguing semantics and not real Staffords. In the example specimen with overloaded shoulders you may initially note a general skew in the functional, athletic balance of Bull and Terrier. Then you may ask yourself “What is it about this dog that makes him appear unbalanced?” Next the answer becomes apparent when the details are evaluated individually. In this case, those overloaded shoulders may be part of this particular dog’s style that includes other exaggerated proportions that are as a whole contradictory to the original consideration of balance as dictated by the efficiency and athleticism required of the Stafford as a game dog.
But how do we further prioritize these details of the breed standard into a system of evaluation that is most accurate? Do we simply say that those deviations from the standard that would most likely impede the dog’s ability to engage in combat are to be penalized greatest? Should we instead judge the merits and prioritize the requirements of the standard according to how essential each element was to a British fighting dog in 1936? And where do we obtain this knowledge? Or do we resolve ourselves to considering the Stafford a modern show dog, and use those measurements applied to Poodles? What about this business of a “Foremost all purpose dog?” Does this mean that a Stafford should be constructed to be a jack of all traits, but master of none? How do you rank in order of importance the essential elements of a dog that can do almost anything? And do you expect me to answer these questions if you read on?
These queries are meant to inspire others who are a whole lot smarter than I to reckon on ‘em for a while and let me know what they figure out. Or to simply elicit those who already know the answers to share their knowledge.
But in the mean time, I’m going to take up some more space on this page….
We have always been told not to judge dogs based upon faults, but to focus on their virtues. However, we don’t use the 100-point system that suggests weighted scores for each requirement of the standard. Instead, we are encouraged to begin with the whole Stafford, before we break him into pieces, or try to build him from scratch. What this requires is a fundamental understanding of what a Staffordshire Bull Terrier is. The Stafford, like most other breeds of dogs is a cultural manifestation. He is a product of an affinity for excellence as defined by a certain group of individuals who shared common experiences and inspirations. Out of the desire for an efficient gladiator capable of brutal contests the Stafford came to be.
The Stafford was not consciously developed as a “foremost all purpose dog,” or else the lineage might tell the story of a respected herding dog having been mated to a bitch who could retrieve a wide variety of game. Then their offspring would have been bred to a strong swimmer who could also run a cold track, take down a Leopard, home-school your children, and file your taxes all in the same day. Support of such nonsense is just that. The Stafford is said to be “all purpose” for reasons both political and practical. The former (political) was in order to legitimize the Stafford’s existence when dog fighting became illegal and the laws were enforced. Confirmation contests seemed for some to be a viable muse for continuing the breed as blood sports became deeper taboos. The latter (practical) is a circumstance that inadvertently arose from developing a loyal, athletic, extremely powerful, agile dog with a passionate personality. The “original” Stafford is simply a recipe for a fighter and a companion. The rest is just gravy.
Our Staffords today should not be judged based upon the image of a dog that can do it all, nor upon an embellished ideal of exaggerated features for the purpose of show. The ideal should be one of an agile, compact warrior who happens to be extremely versatile thanks to a design mandated by the role of a fighting dog living in early 20th century Staffordshire.
Forget about the jack-of-all-traits, consummate show dog nonsense. Abandon those muscle-bound pipe dreams of bulldog intent. And think for a moment about what balance, agility, and strength mean for a contestant who’s life depends upon it. This basic consideration of the Stafford must be our preface for addressing the details of the breed standard, and should rank at the top of our priorities in evaluating the dogs.
The outcome of a confirmation show is based upon how a judge interprets the priorities of the standard. What’s most important to him/her? Though I offer no exhaustive list for ranking the details of the standard, it seems to me that those elements most intimately related to function should be given greatest regard. The “unwritten standard” that Alan Mitchell (Hoplite) speaks about is an excellent example of inferring both implicit and explicit priorities of the breed standard based upon balancing what is foremost required by the Stafford’s original intent with a bit of consideration given to what makes a good show dog. You must begin with the whole dog before moving to his pieces.
To share a bit more of Mr. Mitchell’s sagacious grasp on what’s most important in Staffords consider this comment: When judging a class of Staffords the first thing I do is walk around the ring looking at the basic element of every exhibit. I ask myself, “Which ones look like Staffords?” This is the most important cut a judge makes. I note which ones have breed type and I spend my time sorting through that lot. All the 'virtues' in the world do a Stafford no good if he doesn’t look and act like a Stafford."
Simple? Or simply true?
Wise words
Wise words
Raymond H. Oppenheimer wrote:
1. Remember that the animals you select for breeding today will have an impact on the breed for many years to come. Keep that thought firmly in mind when you choose breeding stock.
2. You can choose only two individuals per generation. Choose only the best, because you will have to wait for another generation to improve what you start with. Breed only if you expect the progeny to be better than both parents.
3. You cannot expect statistical predictions to hold true in a small number of animals (as in one litter of puppies). Statistics only apply to large populations.
4. A pedigree is a tool to help you learn the good and bad attributes that your dog is likely to exhibit or reproduce. A pedigree is only as good as the dog it represents.
5. Breed for a total dog, not just one or two characteristics. Don't follow fads in your breed, because they are usually meant to emphasize one or two features of the dog at the expense of the soundness and function of the whole.
6. Quality does not mean quantity. Quality is produced by careful study, having a good mental picture of what you are trying to achieve, having patience to wait until the right breeding stock is available and to evaluate what you have already produced, and above all, having a breeding plan that is at least three generations ahead of the breeding you do today.
7. Don't bother with a good dog that cannot produce well. Enjoy him (or her) for the beauty that he represents but don't use him in a breeding program.
8. Use out-crosses sparingly. For each desirable characteristic you acquire, you will get many bad traits that you will have to eliminate in succeeding generations.
9. Inbreeding is a valuable tool, being the fastest method to set good characteristics and type. It brings to light hidden traits that need to be eliminated from the breed.
10. Breeding does not "create" anything. What you get is what was there to begin with. It may have been hidden for many generations, but it was there.
11. Discard the old cliché about the littermate of that great producer being just as good to breed to. Littermates seldom have the same genetic make-up.
12. Be honest with yourself. There are no perfect dogs (or bitches) nor are there perfect producers. You cannot do a competent job of breeding if you cannot recognise the faults and virtues of the dogs you plan to breed.
14. Hereditary traits are inherited equally from both parents. Do not expect to solve all of your problems in one generation.
15. If the worst puppy in your last litter is no better than the worst puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.
16. If the best puppy in your last litter is no better than the best puppy in your first litter, you are not making progress. Your last litter should be your last litter.
17. Do not choose a breeding animal by either the best or the worst that he (or she) has produced. Evaluate the total get by the attributes of the majority.
18. Keep in mind that quality is a combination of soundness and function. It is not merely the lack of faults, but the positive presence of virtues. It is the whole dog that counts.
19. Don't allow personal feelings to influence your choice of breeding stock. The right dog for your breeding program is the right dog, whoever owns it. Don't ever decry a good dog; they are too rare and wonderful to be demeaned by pettiness.
20. Don't be satisfied with anything but the best. The second best is never good enough.
Interesting article; black hair follicular dysplasia
Interesting article; black hair follicular dysplasia
Interesting article; black hair follicular dysplasia
What is follicular dysplasia?
Follicular dysplasias are a group of syndromes which have in common abnormal hair loss and changes in coat quality. Hair loss starts at an early age and progresses very slowly. The changes are consistent in the different breeds affected (see below), suggesting a genetic connection.
Black hair follicular dysplasia is a rare inherited disorder that is seen in mixed-breed and purebred dogs. Hair loss occurs at a very early age in black areas on black, or black and white dogs.
How is follicular dysplasia inherited?
Black hair follicular dysplasia is believed to be inherited as an autosomal recessive trait. The modes of inheritance for other follicular dysplasias are unknown.
What breeds are affected by follicular dysplasia?
Follicular dysplasia:
Doberman pinscher - Hair loss starts slowly in the flank areas at 1 to 2 years of age, and progresses very slowly to the back and sides.
Siberian husky and malamute - At 3 to 4 months of age there is a loss of primary hairs on the dog's trunk, and the undercoat becomes crimped and reddish in colour. Clipped hair does not regrow.
Airedale terrier, boxer, English bulldog, Staffordshire terrier - Hair loss starts at 2 to 4 years of age and occurs on the back and sides in a saddle-like pattern. Sometimes the hair regrows and is lost again in a cyclical manner.
Portuguese water dog, Irish water spaniel, curly-coated retriever - Hair loss is first noticed at 2 to 4 years over the back, and spreads slowly to most of the trunk.
Other breeds affected by follicular dysplasia include the Chesapeake Bay retriever, English springer spaniel, German short-haired and wire-haired pointer, and rottweiler.
Black hair follicular dysplasia: mixed breed dogs, and purebred dogs of the following breeds: American cocker spaniel, basset hound, bearded collie, beagle, dachshund, Gordon setter, papillon, pointer, saluki, schipperke. The coat is normal at birth, but by 4 weeks or so, pups start to have abnormalities in the black parts of their haircoat. There is progressive hair loss until all black hairs are lost.
For many breeds and many disorders, the studies to determine the mode of inheritance or the frequency in the breed have not been carried out, or are inconclusive.
What does follicular dysplasia mean to your dog & you?
In most cases, the coat changes are very slowly progressive and permanent, and have little effect on your dog's health. There may be an increased susceptibility to bacterial infections. The dryness and scaliness of the coat can be treated symptomatically (see below).
How is follicular dysplasia diagnosed?
In black hair follicular dysplasia, the early onset and typical pattern of hair loss (black areas only) make diagnosis straightforward. For other follicular dysplasias, endocrine causes of hair loss must be considered. Your veterinarian will take a skin biopsy from your dog, which will show changes typical of follicular dysplasia. This is a simple procedure done with local anesthetic, in which your veterinarian removes a small sample of your dog's skin for examination by a veterinary pathologist. The biopsy will show changes in the skin consistent with this condition.
How is follicular dysplasia treated?
Generally the coat changes are permanent. Your veterinarian will likely suggest symptomatic treatment, such as shampoos and fatty acid supplements, for dry scaly skin. Skin infections that may develop are treated with antibiotics.
Breeding advice
It is preferable not to breed affected animals.
FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT THIS DISORDER, PLEASE SEE YOUR VETERINARIAN.
Resources
Scott, D.W., Miller, W.H., Griffin, C.E. 1995. Muller and Kirk's Small Animal Dermatology. pp 773, 780. W.B. Saunders Co., Toronto.
Copyright © 1998 Canine Inherited Disorders Database. All rights reserved.
Revised: October 30, 2001.
Genetics of coat colour and type in dogs
Genetics of coat colour and type in dogs
Color Dilution Alopecia
Color Dilution Alopecia
Color Dilution Alopecia
Teri Dickinson, DVM
Alopecia (hair loss) related to dilute coat color is a recognized condition in dogs. The currently accepted medical terminology for this condition is Color Dilution Alopecia (CDA). The condition may affect any dilutely pigmented dog, regardless of coat color. This condition was previously known as Blue Balding Syndrome, Blue Doberman Syndrome, Color Mutant Alopecia, Congenital Alopecia, etc. The term Color Mutant Alopecia arose because dilutes were at one time mutations from the deep pigment occurring in wild canines. Dilutes are now a regularly occurring form of pigmentation in many breeds and have been for hundreds of years. The term mutation is therefore not applicable to dilute individuals. References to Doberman Pinschers or blue hair coats arose because the condition is common in blue individuals of this breed, but it is not limited to either blue dogs or Dobermans. The term congenital means present at birth, but CDA affected dogs are born with normal hair coats.
The dilute (also known as Maltese) gene also appears in both mice and cats, and interestingly enough, is not associated with any abnormal coat conditions in those species.(1) Color Dilution Alopecia (CDA) has been recognized in dilute individuals of many breeds of dogs including Chow Chows, Dachshunds, Doberman Pinschers, Great Danes, Irish Setters, Italian Greyhounds, Standard Poodles, Salukis, Whippets, and Yorkshire Terriers.((2),(3),(4),(5)) Dilute individuals carry a recessive genotype of dd and are characterized by blue, bluish-grey, lavender or flesh-colored noses, lips and eye rims. The coat colors may include blue, fawn, blue-fawn, bronze, taupe or some variation of these. These dogs are usually easily distinguished from their deeply (non-dilute) pigmented counterparts. Deeply pigmented individuals carry a dominant genotype of Dd or DD and have black or liver noses, lips and eye rims. Coat colors may include black, red, red-fawn, liver or variations thereof.
CDA is characterized by loss of hair from dilutely pigmented areas. Coats are normal at birth, and onset of hair loss usually begins between six months and three years of age. Hair loss usually begins along the dorsal midline (middle of the back) and often spares the head, tail and limbs. The pattern seems to vary from breed to breed. It has been suggested(6) that darker colored (steel blue) individuals are less likely to be affected, may be less severely affected or may start to lose hair later in life than lighter colored dogs. This suggests that the severity of the disease may be related to the amount of dilution present. Deeply pigmented or white areas of coat are unaffected. In blue dogs with tan points (Yorkies and Dobermans) the tan areas retain a normal appearance. In piebald (white spotted) individuals, the white areas are unaffected by the hair loss. The hair loss may be total or partial and any remaining hairs are usually sparse, rough and easily broken or removed. The skin in the affected areas is usually scaly and may occasionally develop bacterial infections. Pruritus (itching) is usually absent, unless a bacterial infection has set in.
Diagnosis of CDA requires first ruling out other causes of hair loss. Diagnostic tests should include fungal cultures, skin scrapings to check for parasitic mites, etc. CDA often closely resembles endocrine (hormone related) hair loss and the dog should be carefully examined for any other abnormalities, and tested for normal thyroid function. Presence of dilute pigment and a characteristic course of disease also aid in making the diagnosis. Microscopic examination of hairs and\or skin biopsies can be used to confirm the diagnosis.
There is no cure for CDA. Treatment is limited to controlling the scaliness and any associated pruritus with various shampoos or topical treatments.
The cause of CDA is not clearly understood. Microscopic examination of hairs of dilute individuals reveals that the pigment (melanin) forms large granules (macromelanosomes) which are rarely found in deeply pigmented hairs. In dilute individuals with normal appearing coats, these macromelanosomes are not grouped or clumped and cause no distortion of the cuticle (outer covering) of the hair. Dogs with CDA have many large groups or clumps of macromelanosomes which tend to distort the cuticle of the hair. It is hypothesized that this distortion of the cuticle causes the hairs to break easily, resulting in the short stubby hairs commonly found in affected individuals. (See Drawing). It is further hypothesized that the rupture of the hair releases byproducts of pigment formation, which are toxic to the hair follicles. Regrowth of broken hairs is reduced because of damage to the follicles caused by these toxins.
Why in some dilute dogs the macromelanosomes are clumped and in others they are not, is an interesting question at this time. The relationship between dilute pigment and hair loss is clear, but why are some dilute individuals unaffected? Weimeraners as a breed are dd, all individuals are dilute, yet the disease is unreported in this breed. In Dobermans, the dilute individuals comprise only 8-9% of the breed, yet 50-80%6 of the dilute dogs have CDA. In Italian Greyhounds, many individuals are dilutes, yet the IGCA health survey reported only 71 affected individuals among the approximately 2200 dogs included in the survey.(7) If half the dogs included in the survey were dilutes, the incidence of CDA in IG's would be around 7% of the dilute population, as opposed to the 50-80% affected dilute Dobermans.
A third allele (dl) which is associated with CDA has been proposed.6 While this is a long way from being proven, it could help explain why some dilute animals are unaffected. Dogs with a genotype dd would be normal coated dilutes, ddl would be intermediates (mildly affected?) and dldl would be CDA affected. A genotype of Ddl should represent deeply pigmented dogs which were carriers of CDA.
Italian Greyhounds would be an interesting breed to study regarding the heredity of this condition. IG's have a relatively high incidence of dilutes, and a relatively low incidence of CDA affected dogs.
Bibliography
1. Brignac, M.M. et al. Microscopy of color mutant alopecia. Proceedings of the Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Veterinary Dermatology and the American College of Veterinary Dermatology, 1988:14-15.
2. Muller, G.H. et al. Small animal dermatology. 4th ed. Philadelphia: W.B. Saunders. 1989.
3. Briggs, O.M. et al. Color mutant alopecia in a blue Italian Greyhound. Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association 1986; 22: 611-14.
4. Miller, W.H., Jr. Alopecia associated with coat color dilution in two Yorkshire Terriers, a saluki and a mongrel dog. Journal of the American Animal Hospital Association.
5. O'Neill C.S. Hereditary Skin disease in the dog and cat. Compendium of Continuing Education 1981; 3: 791-800.
6. Miller, W.H., Jr. Colour dilution alopecia in Doberman Pinschers with blue or fawn coat colours: A study of the incidence and histopathology of this disorder. Veterinary Dermatology 1990; 1: 113-122.
7. Slater, M. R. Report of a survey on health problems in Italian Greyhounds. Italian Greyhound 1994; 36:6 72-74.
Copyright The Italian Greyhound
Hip Dysplasia
Hip Dysplasia
Hip Dysplasia is a common problem in my practice. Scientific articles that discuss canine hip dysplasia refer to it as CHD. Hip dysplasia is a disease of large breeds and short-faced small breeds such as Bulldogs, Boston Bulldogs, Shia Tzus and Lhasa Apsos. Persian and Main Coon cats are also often dysplastic. Hip dysplasia in dogs is a polygenic trait, which means that a number of genes are involved in producing the problem.
The hip is a ball and socket joint. Hip dysplasia is a situation in which the ball of the femur, the bone between the knee and the hip, and the socket of the pelvis into which it fits are abnormally loose and flattened (see diagram). The ball of the femur is called the femoral head and the socket of the pelvis into which it fits is called the acetabulum. These two structures form the joint in which the ball rotates firmly within the socket, held together by elastic ligaments called the joint capsule. To further strengthen the joint, a round ligament runs from the center of the ball to the center of the acetabulum. In a normal dog, the bones are shaped to perfectly to match each other. In dysplasia the fit is loose and no longer perfect. There are all degrees of hip dysplasia, ranging from very slight changes, which cause no lameness or limp, to severe cases in which the entire architecture of the joint is lost to arthritis. In these cases the round ligament and ligaments of the joint capsule are stretched, allowing the ball to wobble (subluxation) or slip entirely out of the acetabulum (luxation). Although hip dysplasia almost always affects both legs, whichever side is the worst shows the lameness or limping.
The areas within the joint that touch are coated with a slick cartilaginous coating called the articular hyaline cartilage surfaces. In a normal joint, they are very smooth and cushioned with layers of fibrous cartilage. In a normal dog, all of these factors work together for smooth and stable joint function. In a dysplastic joint, these articular layers are eroded off , allowing bone-to-bone contact. When bone rubs on bone, the bone under pressure dissolves while new bone is formed adjacent to it. This is a vicious cycle. As the new bone forms it also rubs on the opposing joint surface. This cycle is called arthritis. It is quite painful. The femoral head that once looked as round and smooth as a billiard ball now becomes flattened, mushroomed an cauliflower-like. The socket or acetabulum looses its depths and becomes shallow as the bone remodels. The areas of bone adjacent to the joint grow new knobs and spicules of bone giving it a characteristic distorted appearance.
Signs Of Hip Dysplasia In Puppies
It is not unusual for signs of dysplasia to occur between 5 and eight months of age. Puppies and juvenile dysplastic dogs tend to hop as they run – much like a rabbit. After periods of exercise these pups will be reluctant to get fully up instead they will sit on their haunches with their legs splayed outward like a frog. They are reluctant to climb stairs and inclines or to stand on their rear legs to reach tabletops or chair seats. When you examine these dogs, their upper thighs and hips are bony and lack muscle mass. They are often cow-hocked, standing with their hocks almost touching. Pups with severe dysplasia stand with their rear legs slightly forward so that their front legs can support more of their weight.
Signs Of Hip Dysplasia In Older Dogs
Many dogs with mild to moderate hip dysplasia do not limp until they are 4 or 5 years old. Some dogs are very stoic and show little sign of lameness until arthritis in the hip is well advanced. These dogs would rather sit than stand. They have trouble rising and can’t keep up with you on walks like the used to. Their problem is worse in cold weather and when the dog has been lying on cement or tile floors. X-rays can be misleading in these dogs in that the degree of joint destruction may not correlate with the degree of pain and lameness.
Nutrition And Dysplasia
It has been found that puppies that reach their final mature body weight a bit later in life do not develop the degree of hip dysphasia found in puppies that are allowed to eat as much as they will. The secret is to keep the puppies growing steadily but to feed them approximately twenty percent less than they would consume free choice.
Since more than genetics are involved, some dogs will not show evidence of dysplasia until they are past breeding age. This is why all dogs should have their hips x-rayed prior to breeding. In severe cases, we often begin to see evidence of lameness when puppies are five to twelve months of age. This can be anything from a slight stiffness when the pup first gets up to reluctance to move and use the legs. As the disease progresses the periods of lameness become longer and the dog’s activity decreases. They may be hesitant to jump across depressions, or to run or climb stairs. With time, the muscles of the thigh also atrophy or wither and the dogs walk with a waddling, Charlie Chaplin motion. The pain associated with this condition is due to the grinding of bone on bone within the joint and adjacent arthritic bone spurs. The degree of discomfort varies from day to day early in the disease but becomes continuous as the condition progresses.
Pathophysiology
Because of loose ligaments, impact within the joint is abnormally jarring. This leads to a degenerative process in which the hyaline cartilage that lines the hip joint is damaged. This damage is the result of lateral forces of the femoral head on the deforming hip socket. Small fractures occur in the cartilage, which cause the release of enzymes that inflame the joint further and inhibit the synthesis of joint-protective compounds called proteoglycans. The cartilage that forms the joint becomes thinner and brittle, which affects its ability to handle the day to day stress of movement and weight bearing. With time, other enzymes are released which interfere with the precursors of proteoglycans or glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronate that make cartilage more resilient to pressure and weight bearing. Inflamed joints lay down new bone within and adjacent to the joint. These bony changes are what we see on x-rays.
OFA Certification
The only way to definitively diagnose hip dysplasia is with an x-ray. One dorso-ventral view should be sufficient. This x-ray must be taken with the dog anesthetized or heavily sedated so that positioning is perfect. On x-ray, many dogs that are not lame will show mild to moderate dysplasia. If your dog should be one of the many dogs that suffer from hip dysplasia you have a lot of treatment options to help them live long, comfortable lives. Dog which are to be used for breeding should have this x-ray performed at 24 months of age and sent to the Orthopedic Foundation For Animals for grading and certification. Two criticisms of this test are that one must wait until the dog is two years old to perform it and that the reading of the film is still , somewhat subjective.
The PennHip Diagnostic Procedure
This technique has been available since 1993. It is a useful technique for determining the degree of hip joint laxity in dogs and is more precise than OFA certification. This technique removes all of the guesswork from evaluating canine hip x-rays. It is the best indicator as to whether or not a dog should be used in a breeding program. Because the University of Pennsylvania’s veterinary school found that different breeds have different susceptibility to dysplasia, PennHip evaluates each dog only in comparison to the breed of the dog involved. This test involves pulling the leg away from the body to stretch out the hip joint. Dogs that are prone to hip dysplasia have loose fitting sockets and the degree of looseness is called the Distraction Index. The distraction index is particularly good in detecting dogs early in the disease or dogs that are only slightly dysplastic and whose x-rays look normal when photographed for OFA. It works on dogs as young as sixteen weeks. Three radiographs are taken of the sedated or anesthetized dog, a distraction view, a compression view and a standard ventrodorsal view. The distraction and compression views are taken to obtain precise numerical measurements of joint laxity and conformation. The hip-extended view is used to detect osteoarthritis and distorted joints similar to OFA screening. As of November 2001 there were 977 veterinarians in the United States authorized to perform this procedure. Dogs with a distraction index closest to zero have the tightest hips and are therefore the best to be bred. Dogs with distraction indexes closer to one should not be bred.
Treatment
If your dog comes from a dysplastic line, if hip x-rays taken prior to maturity show evidence of the disease or if you have simply purchased a large breed of dog subject to hip dysplasia how and what you feed your dog is very important. For a start, do not feed the pup puppy chow or a diet with a caloric content of over 2900Kcal/kg. The object of feeding a lower caloric diet is to slow the rate of growth of the puppy. Its final adult weight will remain the same. Feeding approximately three-quarters dog chow and one-quarter cooked vegetables will lower the kilocalories substantially. This gives bones and ligaments time to adjust to the dog’s increasing weight. Also put these dogs on a chondrotin/glucosamine supplement you purchase at WalMart or a neighborhood pharmacy.
If your dog is beginning to show signs of hip dysplasia consider putting it on a diet if it is even slightly obese. Many dogs can easily loose 20% of their weight and the less they weigh, the less burden is placed on their joints. If your dog sleeps on cold concrete, purchase a rubber mat for it to sleep on. If your dog spends most of its time out-of-doors consider making it an indoor family member.
There will come a time when your dog will need some medications to keep it pain-free. All medications that help dysplastic dogs belong to the non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drug class or NSADs. The commonest drug in this category is Aspirin. You can give your dog 4-6 mg/pound of buffered aspirin up to twice a day. This, combined with a few days of inactivity will get your pet through flare-ups. If digestive disturbances occur the drug must be stopped or the dose lowered. The newer anti-arthritic drugs marketed especially for dogs are no better than aspirin in relieving pain but cause much less gastro-intestinal upset. These drugs which are cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) selective inhibitors include Rimadyl (carprofen, Pfizer), Etogesic (etodolac, Ft. Dodge), Deramaxx (deracoxib, Novartis), meloxicam (Metacam, Merial) and Zubrin (tepoxalin, Schering Plough). All medications in this class will, on occasion, cause vomiting and diarrhea. There have also been some cases of severe liver, kidney, intestinal and blood formation (dyscrasia) problems associated with COX-2 administration.
I suggest that all my patients with hip dysplasia receive nutritional supplements. One form, polysulfated glycosaminoglycan, or Adequan, is an injectable product. Oral products include chondrotin, glucosamine and omega-3 fatty acid supplements. Omega-3 fatty acids reduce inflammation. The other products supply the building blocks of cartilage.
There are many other scientifically unproven treatments for arthritis in people and pets. Everything from magnets to acupuncture have been used. I cannot tell you that they work, but little is lost in trying them if you wish to.
A point eventually comes when the drugs mentioned are not enough. In these pets the carefully supervised use of cortisone-type drugs will buy extra mobility and time for your pet. Steroids are powerful drugs. The most commonly used ones for arthritic problems are prednisone and prednisolone. They are best given no more frequently than every second or third day. I usually begin at 0.38mg/pound body weight. These drugs relieve inflammation throughout the body but also cause increased appetite and thirst, fluid retention, liver enlargement and other changes. Do not fear cortisone drugs too much. These drugs have saved countless human lives. Any person with an organ transplant or lupus remains on one of them for the rest of their lives. The secret of success with them is to control weight through diet and exercise and to give as little of the medication as infrequently as possible so that you and your pet can enjoy each other’s company for as long as God allows.
Unfortunately this is being found in todays Staffords, previously unheard of, vigilance needed
The Old Original Standard - England 1935-
The Old Original Standard - England 1935-
- England 1935 -
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General Appearance
The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a smooth-coated dog, standing about 15 to 18 inches high at the shoulder. He should give the impression of great strength for his size, and although muscular should be active and agile.
Head
Short, deep through, broad skull, very pronounced cheek muscles, distinct stop, short foreface, mouth level.
Ears
Rose, half prick and prick; these three to be preferred, full drop to be penalized.
Eyes Dark.
Neck Should be muscular and rather short.
Body Short back, deep brisket, light in loins with forelegs set rather wide apart to permit of chest development.
Front Legs Straight, feet well padded, to turn out a little and showing no weakness at pasterns.
Hind Legs Hindquarters well muscled, let down at hocks like a terrier.
Coat Short, smooth and close to skin.
Tail The tail should be of medium length tapering to a point and carried rather low; it should not curl much and may be compared with an old-fashioned pump handle.
Weight Dogs 28 to 38 lbs., Bitches 4 lbs. less.
Colour May be any shade of Brindle, Black, White, Fawn or Red, or any of these colours with White. Black and Tan and Liver not to be encouraged.
Faults to be Penalized Dudley nose, light or pink eyes (rims), tail too long or badly curled, badly undershot or overshot mouths.
Standard Amendment
Standard Amendment
The joint meeting of Staffordshire Bull Terrier Specialist Clubs was held on Saturday, July 26th, 1952, at Birmingham, following the Staffordshire Bull Terrier Club's Championship Show.
The following represented their respective clubs:
East Midlands' S.B.T.C, Messrs. Adderson, Gibling and Greenwood.
Northern Counties' S.B.T.C. Mrs. Greenwood and Messrs. Ainley and Greenwood.
North Ireland S.B.T.C. Messrs. Gordon, Piesing, and Tryhorn.
North West S.B.T.C. Messrs. Crompton, Heargraves and Rawnsley.
Scottish S.B.T.C. Messrs. Adams, Findlater, and Smith.
Southern Counties' S.B.T.C. Messrs. Boylan, Cairns, and Tomlinson.
The Staffordshire B.T.C. Messrs. Dudley, Jack Dunn and Holden.
After a speech of welcome by Mr. Holden, chairman of the S.B.T.C., the meeting elected him to the chair.
Mr. W. A. Boylan, on behalf of the S.C.S.B.T.C., Tabled the following motion: " That this meeting agrees that the Height/Weight clause of the standard be amended to read 'Desired heights - Dogs 16 inches; Bitches 15 inches. Desired Weights - Dogs 38 lb; Bitches 34 lb.' "
"In making this proposition" said Mr. Boylan, "I am doing so after many years in the Breed, and after noting the tendency since the alteration of the first Standard of 15 to 18 inches, which were the original measurements, to the present one of 14 to 16 inches. My chief objection to the latter is that the tendency seems to be at the present to get a dog as short on the leg as possible, and at the same time carry the maximum weight allowed in the Standard. We see exhibits of less than 14 inches being placed first, whilst dogs of 16 1/2 inches or 17 inches are put right out, when they are, in fact, only as much over the maximum height as the winning short-legged ones are less than the minimum height. That to me is entirely unfair and is also leading away from the ideal fighting dog.
We have heard that some of our breed clubs have been in a certain amount of difficulty in having a reasonable number of exhibits that conform to the new Standard. Many of out oldest breeders are in agreement with this proposition and I will quote one. Mr Charlie Townsend states:
“The new move only fixes an ideal height and an ideal weight. With the sliding scale we are only perpetuating the lack of uniformity in the Breed. With the ideal size the judge can use his discretion, and that is a good thing. “
I had the privilege of putting this motion to a Special General Meeting of the Southern Club in March 1951, and have had plenty of time since to study its implications, and I am even more convinced than I was then that this will greatly benefit the Breed. Any of us who claim to have the interest of the Breed at heart must of necessity have in mind a picture of our ideal Stafford, and I ask what is YOUR ideal in size and weight? If it differs from my proposition, with all respect, I ask you to state it and fully discuss it, and so give all Stafford owners, both present and future, the considered opinions of names which will live in the Breed for ever. The decision of this meeting will be a future guide on the wisdom of our actions. If we fail now and leave things unsettled as they are, you can take it from me, Mr Chairman, and Gentlemen, that a move will be made which will advocate a revision of the Standard to the point of leaving the height clause out of the Standard altogether.
In seconding the motion, Mr. Cairns referred to the first Joint Meeting at Wolverhampton, where the present Standard was agreed, and said:
“ The outstanding thing about that meeting was the manner in which we really got down to the job, and I am sure that the same spirit will prevail at this meeting. Fundamentally we have all the same object in mind. To do our best for the Breed, our Clubs, and for our members. We have a great responsibility, and one which if we were not all sincere and deeply interested in we would have passed on to someone else”
Going back over my notes of that first meeting, I notice that the Southern Counties drew attention to the fact that the Kennel Club had expressed the opinion that we should state a desired height and weight in the new Standard. The S.C.S.B.T.S. general meeting had decided on heights of 15 and 17 inches, but in view of the Kennel Club suggestion, agreed “ Desired height – Dog 16 inches and Bitches 15 inches” This was put to the joint meeting. Mr. Jack Dunn, then representing Scotland, raised objection to this, and made a plea for “ the little 24 pounders ” which he knew around 1928; he did not say “ little 14 inches” presumably because these “ little 24 pounders” were tallish 16 inchers. That is how the 14 to 16 inches came about.
I cannot believe any Clubs’ membership accepted this without argument , but such was the standing of the respective delegates that these objections were over- ruled. I am equally certain that is this motion is tonight accepted by this meeting after listening to the discussion, the delegates here will be capable of getting their membership to accept the majority decision of this meeting.
The case for this motion has already been given the widest publicity, which will certainly have been followed closely by everybody here.
It was first stated in March 1951, at a special general meeting of the S.C.S.B.T.S. and subsequently dealt with at great length in succeeding numbers of ‘The Stafford’. A nationwide poll was organized, resulting in 183 votes being cast in favour to 6 against.
The important point, after the overwhelming majority, is that these votes came from all over the country; they were not confined to any one particular area.
Despite all the words written in support of the amendment, only one letter was received from the whole area north of London against!
As this is the only articulate objection to this proposition it is worth referring to. This letter states:
“If we adopt a rigid height and weight clause with one stipulated figure then scales and measurers would have to be adopted at every show”
It seems incredible that the simple statement ‘DESIRED Height’ could be interpreted by anyone to mean that all Stafford dogs, for example, must in the future be exactly 16 inches. It has been stated time and time again by countless experts that the desired height for a Stafford dog is 16 inches and the present proposition is only capable of one interpretation, which is that the dog most nearly approximating the desired height and weight shall receive the most marks when the height/weight clause of the Standard is applied in the ring. The writer of this letter is so wide of the mark, that it is the present day standard, which calls for weights and measurers to apply it correctly, whereas the proposed amendment allows that latitude which renders weights and measurers completely unnecessary.
If this interpretation has been propagated in the councils of those Clubs known to oppose the amendment it can only be said that their decisions have been arrived at on a complete misunderstanding of the meaning of the amendment and as such are valueless.
The writer continues: ‘ any responsible person in the Breed sees in the present Standard his ideal Stafford to be in the upper limits of the weight/height clause, then breed for it and tell the newcomers to aim for it’.
Would it unfair to interpret this as an argument in favour of the amendment?
If we are going to say that the correct height and weight for a Stafford dog is 16 inches and 38 pounds, what reasonable objection can there be to stating it in the Standard? We have reached the position where supporters and antagonists all agree that the ideal dog should be 16 inches and 38 pounds, can we logically continue with a Standard that discards dogs with a shade over 16 inches, whilst permitting others to be two inches under ?
The main reason for stating a height and weight at all is to establish the desired balance of a Stafford. If we show 16 inches and 38 pounds that puts the balance in a nutshell.
14 to 16 inches and 28 to 38 pounds have confused everybody. We have all seen 14 inch dogs shown, but what about their weights?
If anyone wants to lose some money try guaranteeing a class for under 32 pound dogs. Yet there were well filled classes for these when the minimum height was 15 inches! Think this over carefully. It can mean only one thing and that is that the present Standard has created so much confusion that it is not capable of correct interpretation by the judges and is therefore useless.
Opponents have argued that we are rushing out fences, and that sufficient time has not elapsed since the inception of the present Standard and the tabling of the amendment.
The original Standard was agreed in 1935, the present Standard in 1948. A period of 14 years, including seven years of war, when breeding was at its lowest ebb, and very infrequent dog shows were confined to small areas of the country. The period 1948 to 1952 saw a marvellous upsurge in the Breed, with an average of four new Champions each year, compared with four in four years in the pre war period, when there were two specialist clubs as against eight now!
Opponents did not argue we were rushing our fences when the present Standard was agreed, yet the rate of the development in the first seven year period, with phenomenal expansion in the last four years. These facts coupled with the first class organisation of the Breed today, eight specialist clubs, a breed magazine, 26 Championship shows a year, and countless other shows puts us in the best position ever to assess development in the Breed.
If it was in order to alter the 1935 Standard in 1948 after 10 lean years, it must be in order to propose this slight amendment now, particularly when no point has been argued more fully than this one. Every interested person has had ample opportunity to state his case, and what do we find? 183 voted in favour, 6 against, oceans of printed matter in favour, two letter (one of which was misleading) against!
If the clubs’ representatives are here to serve their members they must take these figures into account. Perhaps we shall hear during the discussion how each club got their opinions of their members; were these truly representatives of their membership?
It gives me great pleasure to second this proposition, because transcending all other considerations, the present Standard has led to complete chaos, and this confusion will have a very serious effect on the Breed until it is altered, as it surely will be, if not now then later.
One height and one weight states the desired balance of the animal in the simplest possible terms. It can only lead to a greater uniformity in the Breed, make satisfactory judging, and give the breeders, the backbone of the fancy, a fair crack of the whip!
The chairman then invited questions and asked for further clarifications on the point as to whether the proposed amendment did mean that dogs should have to be exactly 16 inches and 38 pounds. Replying, Mr. Boylan said that the proposition meant exactly what it stated; its object was to establish a desired height and weight, an ideal and this was capable of only one interpretation, and that was that the dogs most closely approximating this ideal, other points being equal, would win. This allowed latitude above and below the ideal. The chairman said this should satisfactorily clear up that point.
In the discussion, Mr. Hargreaves, N.W.S.B.T.S, said that he considered the present Standard satisfactory. He preferred a dog of 16 inches and 38 pounds, but thought it dangerous to permit dogs above 16 inches. Mr. Ainley, Northern Counties S.B.T.C, agreed with this view.
Mr. Boylan asked whether, in view of this, would either of the clubs concerned be prepared to tell their members owning dogs over 16 inches that they would have to leave their clubs, as those clubs were not prepared to cater for them?
Both answered in the negative.
Put to vote, the motion to agree the amendment was carried, 12 votes for and 8 against.
The following Standard amendment was also tabled by the Southern Counties S.B.T.S. :
That the section of the Standard concerning eyes be amended to read “ Round or medium size, not protruding and set to look straight ahead. From medium to very dark brown, the darker for preference, some may even appear black.”
This was carried nam. con.
North West S.B.T.C proposed that clubs supporting this meeting agree that travelling expenses of all delegates present be added together and that each club contribute an equal amount to the total expenses. It was explained that this was proposed with the object of helping the most distant clubs. After discussion the motion was withdrawn.
Scottish S.B.T.C. proposed that each club guarantee the breed classes in all championship shows in its area, and submit its own list of championship show judges to the promoting society.
It was stated on behalf of the Scottish club that this motion was made in hope that some agreement could be reached whereby they would be given an opportunity of putting up judges for shows in Scotland; at present they have not been given an opportunity to have a say in the choice of judges in their area.
Mr. Cairns stated that the Southern Counties had never put up a list of judges for any of the Scottish Championship shows and if all the English clubs acted similarly there should be no further difficulties. He was in sympathy with the Scottish club’s point of view and was sure his society would also support this view. However, whilst the motion was simple as applied to Scotland, certain difficulties could be foreseen when it came to a division of the English Shows.
The Scottish club proposed that clubs represented at this meeting agree to exchange club judging lists, or to include in their lists the names of specialist judges mentioned in the list of other clubs. The Scottish delegates said that this motion was linked with the above and arose from the same consideration. They would be satisfied if delegates would report back to their clubs and put the Scottish point of view to their members.
A vote of thanks was accorded the chairman for the able way in which he had conducted the meeting and he in turn thanked the delegates for their attendance and interest in the important matters which had been so thoroughly discussed.
Interesting
The Colour Liver
The Colour Liver
Thought to be due to the Whippet crosses used years ago. The Blue also is thought to be due to this cross, the Black and Tan due to the Manchester Terrier 
. Incidently the colour black was never in the original Bulldog so our black staffies are thought to have other terrier influence.
Interesting 
The Black and Tan 
The terrier used in cross with bulldog to create SBT was the (Old) English Terrier. "Some time about 1800/1820, the Bulldog was crossed with the Old English Terrier and produced the Staffordshire" (Beilby H N 1943. The Staffordshire Bull Terrier, page 7).
The breeds like White English Terrier and Manchester Terrier didn't yet exist. The coloration varied in the (Old) English Terrier. Most common was black&tan but there were also white, pied and even blue. (Brown T 1829. Biographical Sketches and Authentic Anecdotes of Dogs, page 342; Jardine W, Smith C H 1840. The Natural History of Dogs, page 206; Walsh J H "Stonehenge" 1859. The Dog in Helath and Disesase, page 74; Beilby H N, pages 9-10.)
B&T was considered as the only "true" color for English Terrier (Walsh, p. 74). Maybe the other colors were a bit unwanted because they reminded from the Bulldog / Bull Terrier (yes Bulldog blood was added to many terriers to give them needed courage and higher threshold for pain). And maybe the Bull Terrier (SBT) people prefered the coloration of courageous Bull Dog and didn't like the B&T which was a wimpy terrier colour.
Speaking Dog. What's your dog saying?
Speaking Dog. What's your dog saying?
Speaking Dog. What's your dog saying?
One of the most common mistakes owners can make with their dogs is to misread what the dog is saying into something completely different. We humans do it all of the time. The dog's body language says one thing, and we interpret it into something completely different basing our assumption on what we ourselves are feeling. When in reality dogs see and read the world much different than we humans. If we humans better understood our dogs we could prevent many dog bites and other behavioral issues.
Dogs and Hugs
For example lets take a simple act of a hug. To humans a hug means love and affection. When a human receives a welcomed hug from a loved one it makes us feel good inside.
But just what does a hug mean to a dog? Humans are always hugging their dogs and when we do we are giving the dog affection and sharing our love. However what most humans do not realize is to a dog a hug is not affection at all. To a dog a hug symbolizes a social status ranking representing dominance and an invasion of space. Lower members of the pack give space to the higher members as a show of respect. The position of the body is also meaningful to a dog. The one on top represents a higher status ranking. Therefore when you bend down and wrap your arms around a dog you are not only on top, but you are in their space.
Keeping this logic in mind, it makes total sense to not run up and hug a strange dog. Many children are bit every day by hugging dogs and if you look at it from the dogs perspective who would blame them? A stranger comes running over asserting dominance on a dog they have just met and the dog's reaction is to communicate to this being that they do not wish to be dominated. Unlike horses and deer who are "flight animals", a dog is a "fight animal" and will communicate his displeasure with a growl, and or a snap or bite.
That being said, it is not bad to hug a dog that is familiar with you if the dog is calm and in a submissive state of mind, so long as you are hugging them at a time when you are relaxed and happy. As a matter of fact the emotional sensation it gives the humans to hug can be felt by the dog, and that energy radiating from the humans can be very calming to the dog. Not because he is enjoying the hug, but because he is enjoying the calm he feels coming from you.
I watched a little girl come running over to a dog, giving the dog a huge hug. The little girl was overjoyed. You could tell she just loved dogs. I watched the dog's face. The dog's eyes were wide and he went somewhat stiff, as he turned his head up toward the being who was wrapping his arms around him. I saw him flick his tongue in a nervous way. While this dog did not bite this child it was clear the dog was not enjoying it. Had the child been hugging a more dominate dog the dog just may have snapped at her.
I then watched the child hug a second dog. The second dog was Bruno. Bruno lowered his head and allowed himself to be hugged. He, like the first dog, also flicked his tongue, but in a different way. His tongue came all the way out and back in as he tried to lick the child. His lick was submissive where as the first dog's lick was nervous. Bruno enjoyed the attention. He is just about as submissive as they come and enjoys any attention from any human he can get.
When you allow your children to hug strange dogs you are taking a gamble in the dog's reaction. Not even the owner can always predict what the dog's reaction will be. The proper way to greet a dog is to turn your body sideways, no eye to eye contact and allow the dog to smell you. That is greeting a dog in dog language in a non-confrontational way.
Human Interpretation
Here is another good example of how we humans assume our dogs have the same emotions and feelings as we have and put our own interpretations into a dogs reactions. This is a YouTube clip of Bonnie Hunt and her interpretation of this baby crawling over to the dog. Notice the emotion the clip draws from the human. The talk show host assumes the dog was bonding and acknowledging in a heart felt loving kind of way. The host is so moved by what is in that clip that she looks like she could cry. Overwhelmed with joy about what she believes is an emotional tie between the baby and the dog.
A lot of humans are going to watch this clip and attach their own emotions to what THEY interpreted the dog was feeling at the time the dog touched the baby back with his paw. But what is the dog really communicating? Is he overwhelmed with emotion because the cute little baby crawled over and connected with him? No, not at all. When the baby first crawled over and touched the dog's paw the dog sat up and looked to see what was touching his foot. Saw it was the baby. The dog then seeing it was the baby submitted by laying his head down. When the baby touched the dog's paw this submissive Boxer saw it as a game and was playing with the baby. But there was no heart felt emotional tie in the dog's mind like the announcer read into it. There was no strong feeling of affection felt by the dog when the baby touched his paw. The dog did not touch the baby back to show his reciprocated love. It was just a gentle game. The dog was playing. One thing we can all agree on is this clip is adorable and that Boxer is a very good dog.
When Bruno is laying down and I start to touch his feet he'll do the same. Start to move his feet because he thinks its a game we are playing. Not because he is emotionally connecting with my touch. Here is a clip where I touch Bruno's foot with a clothes hanger. Bruno sits up. When I touch his front foot he paws at it much like the Boxer who put his paw on the baby's hand.
Space
I often hear people state that when they correct their dog for a bad behavior the dog sulks, leaves the room or turns his head because the dog is "upset". The humans interpret this behavior as the dog's feelings are hurt. They feel bad and believe they need to go and "make up" with the dog.
What is the dog really saying? If you correct your dog and he turns his head or leaves the room he is giving in to you and accepting you as his leader. Giving space or turning away from direct eye contact are submissive behaviors. When humans try and "make up" with a dog after the dog has given in to you, it sends confusing mixed signals to the dog.
These examples are just the tip of the iceberg. Humans misread their dogs on a daily basis and on a wide scale of issues. I can't even imagine what it is like for a dog to be constantly misread and how confusing it must be for them. Most dogs do not wish to be the leaders, do not wish to run the show. They only wish to be secure with their pack and clearly know their status. However, they will take over when they do not see the humans as stronger then themselves. We humans would do our dogs a huge favor by trying to better understand them rather than just assume they are just like us.
Staffordshire Bull terrier - Divers informations
Staffordshire Bull terrier - Divers informations
Staffordshire Bull Terrier
Description
The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is a powerful and muscular dog, very strong for his size with a broad head and very strong jaws. Dark preferable, but may bear some relation to coat color. Round, of medium size, and set to look straight ahead. Light eyes or pink eye rims to be considered a fault, except that where the coat surrounding the eye is white the eye rim may be pink. Ears--Rose or half-pricked and not large. Full drop or full prick to be considered a serious fault. Mouth--A bite in which the outer side of the lower incisors touches the inner side of the upper incisors. The lips should be tight and clean. The coat is smooth, short and close to the skin, not to be trimmed or de-whiskered. Colors include red, fawn, white, black or blue, or any of these colors with white. Any shade of brindle or any shade of brindle with white. Black-and-tan or liver color to be disqualified. The tail is medium length, low set, tapering to a point and carried rather low. Should not curl much and may be likened to an old fashioned pump handle. Lips tight and clean. Jaws strong, teeth large, with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws. Rose or half pricked ears, not large or heavy. Full, drop or pricked ears highly undesirable.
Temperament
The Staffordshire Bull Terrier does everything full throttle: play, work and love. It is extremely courageous and obedient, affectionate with a sense of humor. One owner of this breed says "Staffordshire Bull Terriers are very people friendly. They are not particularly wary of strangers in almost all circumstances - although I've heard a few anecdotes about some being wary of particular people. My dogs are always happy to meet new people!". The breeds reputation with children is second to none. Adored and adoring within its own family circle. It is usually good with other pets in the household, but without a stern, human pack leader giving timely corrections when needed, they may be combative with dogs outside the family. Socialize them well. They are intelligent, persistent and active. As a puppy they tend to chew a great deal so make sure you provide them with plenty of chew toys. Their powerful jaws will tear though vinyl toys to get to the squeaker in no time. This can be dangerous if the dog swallows the plastic. Be sure to only give your Staffie strong toys. Do not allow it to be off its leash unless it is safe to do so. They can be trained for agility and competitive obedience. The breed competes in agility and obedience in the UK at the highest level. Staffie's love a challenge and variety. Owners need to protect these dogs from injuring themselves. Totally fearless and curious, they're liable to jump off of a deck or walk through broken glass. They can be difficult to housebreak. These dogs are not recommended for most families, because they need every member of their family to be a firm, confident, consistent pack leader, providing rules they must follow; placing limits on what they can and cannot do. Without this, they will become stubborn and hard to handle. The objective in training this dog is to achieve a pack leader status. It is a natural instinct for a dog to have an order in their pack. When we humans live with dogs, we become their pack. The entire pack cooperates under a single leader. Lines are clearly defined. You and all other humans MUST be higher up in the order than the dog. That is the only way your relationship can be a success.
Height, weight
Height: Dogs 14-16 inches (36-41cm) Bitches 13-15 inches (33-38cm)
Weight: Dogs 25-38 pounds (11-17kg) Bitches 23-35 pounds (10-16kg)
Health Problems
Prone to cataracts. HC & PHPV (both eye complaints) although through screening of both parents this can be avoided. DNA work in the UK is very nearly complete as to cure this (people should ensure they buy from eye tested parents, and that puppies are screened at a few weeks old. Hip dysplasia is occasionally seen. Like all the bully type breeds, Staffordshire Bull Terriers often have gas problems.
Living Conditions
The Staffordshire Bull Terrier will do okay in an apartment if it is sufficiently exercised. It is very active indoors and will do okay with a small yard.
Exercise
The Staffordshire Bull Terrier possesses tremendous stamina and must have plenty of exercise, which needs to include a daily walk or jog.
Life Expectancy
10-16 Years
Grooming
The smooth, short-haired coat is easy to groom. Brush every day with a firm bristle brush, and bathe or dry shampoo as necessary. The coat will gleam if rubbed with a piece of toweling or chamois.
Origin
The Staffordshire Bull Terrier was developed in the region of Staffordshire, England in the nineteenth century from crosses between Bulldogs and various Terriers. The Staffordshire Bull was developed for the then-popular sport of bull baiting. The breed's popularity waned as interest in the sport waned. Then, in the twentieth century, interest in the breed grew again, especially in the United States. It returned to the show ring in 1935. In the U.S. it is now well bred in a size slightly larger than that called for in the European standard. The Staffordshire Bull Terrier is not a dog for every family, but in the hands of a dominant, experienced owner; it can be a successful pet and family guardian.
Group
Mastiff, AKC Terrier
Recognition
CKC, FCI, AKC, UKC, KCGB, CKC, ANKC, NKC, NZKC, APRI, ACR
CKC = Continental Kennel Club
FCI = Fédération Cynologique Internationale
AKC = American Kennel Club
UKC = United Kennel Club
KCGB = Kennel Club of Great Britain
CKC = Canadian Kennel Club
ANKC = Australian National Kennel Club
NKC = National Kennel Club
NZKC = New Zealand Kennel Club
APRI = American Pet Registry Inc.
ACR = American Canine Registry
Le mental de nos compagnons
Extrait du magazine "Chien courant" Avril 2009
Le mental de nos compagnons
Un élément primordial !
La sélection des sujets mis à la reproduction passe généralement chez le chasseur aux chiens courants par la validation des caractères physiques que nous résumerons par le terme de "phénotype" et des qualités de chasse des sujets qui l'intéressent.
Malgré de grands progrès en la matière depuis une dizaine d'années, trop peu d'éleveurs s'intéressent cependant au "profil psychologique" des géniteurs qu'ils choisissent.
Des chiens équilibrés faciliteront bien entendu l'élevage.
Les qualités mentales de nos chiens de chasse sont en effet prépondérantes à bien des égards. Elever des chiens "sur l'oeil" est un vrai calvaire au quotidien, les faire chasser peut devenir épique, les récupérer après la chasse quasiment impossible. Combien de fois avons-nous tenté en vain de reprendre un chien égaré qui ne se laissera finalement amadouer que par son propre maître ou au prix d'innombrables ruses ?
Bannir les chiens peureux ou craintifs constituera la base de la sélection sur le mental. Il faut souligner à cet égard l'effort réel fait par de nombreux clubs de races qui ont, petit à petit, éliminé les lignées incriminées.
Il faudra avant tout cerner les lignées dont l'élevage est facile : des chiens équilibrés ne seront jamais agressifs, ce qui évitera de nombreuses visites chez le vétérinaire et facilitera la tâche du propriétaire au quotidien.
Finies les séparations au chenil, la corvée de gamelle où l'on perd un temps fou à surveiller que chacun mange à sa faim et à empêcher les bagarres.
Le comportement est également discriminant dans la capacité reproductrice d'une lignée. Les races de chiens courants ne sont généralement pas difficiles à faire reproduire mais on trouvera tout de même des différences sensibles d'une lignée à l'autre dès lors que l'on parle des qualités maternelles des lices. Certaines lignées produisent en effet de "bonnes mères" qui mènent leurs portées nombreuses sans problèmes jusqu'au sevrage.
A ce stade et pour être plus complet, il convient de signaler qu'à l'effet "génétique" il faut ajouter un effet "milieu" qui conditionne une part du comportement des animaux. Il s'agit essentiellement des conditions d'élevage et du savoir faire de l'éleveur. En d'autres termes, chacun élève à sa manière et le développement de nos chiens est fortement conditionné par nos pratiques. Entrent en jeu toutes les problématiques de conformité des bâtiments, d'alimentation, de rapport maître/chien ... mais ceci est un autre chapitre.
A la chasse, la différence se fait sur le mental
La volonté est un marqueur prépondérant. La journée d'un chien courant est longue et les épreuves sont rudes.
Au rapprocher, dès lors que la voie est difficile, nos compagnons devront faire preuve d'une grande ténacité pour aboutir et e pas se démobiliser. Certains chiens travailleront plus que d'autres, la plupart finissant par décrocher ou relever la tête dans des postures caractéristiques pour voir ce que font "les voisins" ou passer à une autre quête dès lors que la première n'aboutit pas dans l'heure de chasse. C'est particulièrement vrai pour les meutes à lièvre et les jours "sans".
Rien de pire alors que les chiens qui volent d'indications en indications à tel point qu'il devient impossible de trouver un défilé logique.
Dans la menée et toujours en cas de mauvaise voie, seuls les plus calmes et les mieux ajustés parviendront à suivre le fil d'ariane laissé au sol par l'animal de chasse.
Sur les défauts au contraire, c'est l'esprit d'initiative qui prime. L'intelligence, voire la malice de certains sujets feront la différence.
Eliminer sans regret les chiens qui reculent systématiquement pour se rassurer et empaumer des voies déjà chassées, privilégier les chiens requérants, qui font leurs avants seuls et bouclent sous le vent d'instinct sera un gage de réussite.
De tels chiens raccourcissent les défauts, ils les gomment et permettent à la meute de rester soudée au train de l'animal qu'elle poursuit... mais que de regrets quand ils disparaissent !
Nos chiens de chasse doivent également être imperturbables et parfois faire preuve de sang froid.
Nous avons tous vécu des chasses où les galères s'enchaînent et où l'animal prend un malin plaisir à empiler les difficultés : passage dans les jardins et les propriétés, traversée de troupeaux, de routes, de constructions, passage à proximité d'un chenil...
Dans ces conditions, si les chiens qui constituent la meute se laissent distraire ou prennent peur, la chasse est souvent terminée.
La créance s'obtiendra facilement chez les sujets équilibrés qui comprendront l'interdiction et "imprimeront" à jamais la voie qui leur est prohibée. Dans ce domaine, il sera presque impossible d'éduquer les chiens jaloux qui n'hésiteront pas un instant à mettre la meute à la faute ou à empaumer une mauvaise voie derrière le(s) fautif(s).
Les chiens courageux tireront quant à eux particulièrement leur épingle du jeu face aux animaux dangereux comme les sangliers ou les cerfs. Sans pour autant être agressifs, auquel cas ils seront voués le plus souvent à une courte vie, ils devront cependant faire preuve d'une grande sûreté pour maintenir leur animal aux abois et permettre l'arrivée du piqueur.
Savoir conserver ou éliminer
Comme dans toute chose, l'objectivité reste le seul refuge pour l'éleveur qui souhaite faire progresser le profil psychologique de sa meute. Par expérience, je peux témoigner du changement radical qui s'opère quand on élimine un sujet perturbant.
Il ne s'agit pas forcément d'un mauvais chien et ses qualités sont souvent importantes mais il n'est pas à sa place et provoque un comportement collectif qui n'est pas désirable, soit en élevage, soit à la chasse. Ce chien trouvera certainement son équilibre dans de petites meutes ou chez des utilisateurs ne souhaitant qu'un chien et où il pourra pleinement s'exprimer.
Les facettes psychologiques de nos chiens de chasse sont donc nombreuses et il convient d'adapter la sélection au type de chasse que nous pratiquons. Le socle commun sera la recherche d'individus équilibrés sur lesquels nous pourront apporter des courants de sang et des qualités spécifiques.
Thomas Corvasce
L’alimentation du chien de sport
Extrait du magazine "Chien courant" Avril 2009
L’alimentation du chien de sport
Par le professeur Moraillon, ancien directeur de l’Ecole Nationale Vétérinaire de Maison-Alfort
Rappelons quelques notions de base
. Le chien à l’entretien
Il faut tout d’abord bien connaître les besoins nutritionnels de base du chien “à l’entretien”. Qu’appelle-t-on “chien à l’entretien” ? Un chien adulte, jeune, cinq ans environ, pesant autour de 20kg, qui n’est pas dans un état physiologique particulier, c’est-à-dire qu’il n’est ni en période de reproduction, ni en période de lactation, ni en période travail important. Il est en bonne santé, entretenu dans un milieu dont l température est de l’ordre de 20°.
L’alimentation, dans un besoin nutritionnel de base, vise à maintenir son poids de forme, avec des aliments d’une bonne digestibilité, sans rapport excessif de matières grasses. Elle maintient la peau et le pelage dans un état satisfaisant.
Le régime de base
Sur un chien en état d’entretien, le régime de base, considéré comme satisfaisant, comprend 27% de proteines (exprimées par rapport à la matière sèche), 10% de matières grasses, 35 à 40 % de glucides auxquels s’ajoutent 3 à 7% de fibres alimentaires non digestibles, du calcium à 1,1% et du phosphore à 0,8% ou 0,9%. Cela, c’est le régime de base qui donne de bons résultats très satisfaisants sur un chien de 20 kgs, adulte jeune, à une température de 20°.
Le besoin énergétique
Il faut savoir que la valeur énergétique pour le chien est d’environ 132 kilocalories par kilo de poids, à la puissance 0,75. Qu’est-ce que cela signifie ? Simplement que le besoin énergétique pour un chien de petite taille est proportionnellement plus important que pour un chien de grande taille. Pour un Yorkshire par exemple, il va falloir donner 132 kilocalories par kilo de poids vif pour satisfaire son besoin énergétique, alors que pour un chien de grande taille, on peut descendre à 50, 60 kilocalories par kilo. Autrement dit, le besoin énergétique par kilo de poids vif est beaucoup plus faible pour un chien de grande taille au repos que pour un chien de petite taille.
Croissance et espérance de vie
Il faut tenir compte également d’un certain nombre de notions: La durée de la croissance s’achève plus rapidement sur un chien de petite race : vers 8 à 9 mois, cette croissance est terminée. Sur un chien de grande race, elle peut aller jusqu’à 24 mois. Autrement dit, la croissance est trois fois plus longue chez un chien de grande race . L’amplitude de la croissance est totalement différente : vingt fois le poids de naissance pour les chiens de petite race, et jusqu’à cent fois pour les chiens de grande race. L’espèce canine est sans doute l’espèce dans laquelle on trouve la variation morphologique la plus importante. L’espérance de vie varie également suivant la taille du chien : elle est beaucoup plus grande chez le chien de petite taille, 14 ans en moyenne, contre sept, huit ou neuf ans chez les chiens de grande taille.
Le chien en exercice
La spécificité nutritionnelle du chien de base se trouve totalement modifiée chez le chien en exercice. Pour ce dernier, ce besoin augmente considérablement, d’une part en raison de la dépense énergétique induite quantitativement, et d’autre part en raison du stress qui nécessite des efforts nutritionnels particuliers. Enfin en raison de la déshydratation qui survient fréquemment au cours d’un effort sportif et qui constitue un paramètre primordial. On parle toujours de nutriments solides, mais le nutriment essentiel est l’eau. On ne survit pas plus de 3 jours en l’absence d’abreuvement, alors que l’on peut vivre plusieurs semaines sans manger.
Les spécificités nutritionnelles
Elles sont représentées par la dépense énergétique de l’animal en état de compétition. Cette dépense énergétique, on va l’estimer très simplement : Il suffit de déterminer quel est le poids de forme de l’animal et de lui donner une alimentation correcte pour maintenir ce poids de forme. L’élément essentiel pour apprécier l’adéquation entre l’apport énergétique et la dépense est tout bêtement la pesée de l’animal qui doit se faire dans l’idéal au minimum une fois par semaine, de manière à modifier l’alimentation en fonction du résultat. Il faut souligner qu’une heure de travail augmente la dépense énergétique de base de 10%. On considère qu’il faut ajouter 60% aux besoins énergétiques d’une journée de travail.
Un deuxième point important, c’est la température extérieure : S’il fait froid, il va falloir majorer l’apport énergétique pour couvrir les besoins. A titre d’exemple pour un chien donné qui se trouve à Strasbourg au mois de Mai il va falloir majorer les besoins nutritionnels de 10%, et de 100% en février. Si le même chien se trouve à Montpellier, en mai le régime de base suffit, en janvier-février, on le majore de 30%. La qualité des nutriments joue un rôle. Tout d’abord, l’énergie que l’on distribue doit être disponible facilement dans la cellule musculaire. Il est donc conseillé d’utiliser des nutriments hautement caloriques, à mon avis des aliments secs, qui apportent 3800 à 4000 kilocalories par kilo d’aliment. Des aliments secs donc, qui limitent les déchets.
Il va aussi falloir, sur un animal soumis à un effort d’endurance, augmenter la matière grasse. Je vous ai parlé de 12% dans la ration d’entretien, mais lorsqu’on va avoir affaire à des animaux en état d’effort physique, on peut aller jusqu’à 16 à 20 % en cas d’effort court, et jusqu’à 35% en cas d’endurance, dans des conditions de climat difficile, comme c’est le cas pour les chiens de traîneau dans le Grand Nord. Un bon compromis, ce sont des aliments qui apportent à peu près 25% de la matière sèche sous forme de lipides.
Enfin il va falloir donner des aliments hyperdigestifs. Commercialisés sous le nom de “Premium”, ils ont pour avantage de réduire considérablement l’encombrement du tube digestif. Ils occupent, à valeur nutritive égale, le tiers du volume d’un aliment traditionnel. On va juger de la digestibilité d’un aliment tout simplement en appréciant les selles. Pour 100 grammes d’aliments, on ne doit pas recueillir plus de 40 à 50 grammes de selles.
Lutte contre le stress
Ensuite, les spécificités nutritionnelles doivent lutter contre le stress par l’augmentation des protéines des rations. On peut aller jusqu’à 40% par rapport à la matière sèche. Augmentation également des vitamines B, notamment les vitamines B1, B2 et B6 qui sont importantes dans le métabolisme des glucides pour B1, des lipides pour B2 et des protéines pour B6. Apport de vitamine B12 en quantité suffisante puisque cette vitamine est indispensable à la synthèse de l’hémoglobine et que l’hémoglobine est indispensable au transport de l’oxygène. Il va falloir utiliser des anti-oxydants puisque le stress, comme le vieillissement, se caractérise par un processus oxydatif important au niveau des membranes cellulaires. On rajoute également à la ration de la vitamine E et du Sélénium. Le sélénium a un rôle très important pour la constitution de la contraction musculaire. Une carence en sélénium se traduit chez certaines espèces par ce que l’on appelle la maladie du muscle blanc. C’est en fait le muscle qui dégénère. Donc, apport suffisant en vitamine E et en sélénium.
Nécessaire également, un apport suffisant d’acides gras de la série omega 3 que l’on trouve dans la graisse de poisson. Ils sont importants pour augmenter la présence d’oxygène au niveau de la membrane cellulaire et pour diminuer les phénomènes inflammatoires. L’effort d’endurance prolongé et répété entraîne des phénomènes inflammatoires articulaires dégénératifs qui sont utilement combattus par l’apport d’acides gras de la série oméga 3.
Enfin, certains suppléments nutritionnels sont importants : L-Carnitine est utile pour la bonne utilisation des acides gras et pour favoriser la récupération de l’effort. 35mg de carnitine par kg de poids corporel.
La vitamine C, possède un effet anti-oxydant et combat le stress. Les doses sont assez variables, on peut aller jusqu’à 500 mg par jour et par animal.
Et puis enfin, on a vu l’intérêt de l’addition dans les aliments de probiotiques: ce sont des “bactéries lactiques” qui améliorent considérablement la digestibilité de l’aliment.
Un certain nombre d’erreurs sont faites dans les modes de distribution des aliments.
Une première erreur est de dire :” lorsqu’on veut soumettre un animal à un effort important, il est mieux qu’il soit à jeun.” Au contraire, il est nécessaire, pour un animal qui va chasser plusieurs heures, de donner, dans l’idéal, trois, quatre heures avant le début de la chasse, un quart de la ration et un abreuvement en quantité aussi importante que possible. On décrivait, dans le temps, les crises épileptiques du chien de meute qui n’étaient dues en fait qu’à une hypoglycémie devient inférieure à 0,3 ou 0,4 g par litre, des phénomènes de convulsion apparaissent qui ne sont rien d’autre que de l’hypoglycémie. Donc, nourrir les animaux trois à quatre heures avant la chasse, un quart de la ration avant.
L’abreuvement
Deuxième élément important, l’abreuvement. Important avant de partir à la chasse. Important aussi au cours de l’effort lorsque c’est possible, et très important, bien sûr, immédiatement après l’effort. Il faut à tout prix éviter la déshydratation. Cette déshydratation, vous pouvez la détecter d’une manière relativement simple par ce que l’on appelle “le signe du pli de la peau”. Un animal dont l’hydratation est réduite de 5% ne manifeste aucun symptôme, aucun signe clinique évident . Au-delà, on va pouvoir se rendre compte d’une déshydratation par la pratique du pli de peau . : On va tirer sur la peau de l’animal dans une région où la peau est tendue, par exemple les côtes ou la région dorsolombaire. Par la région cervicale parce que là, la peau est naturellement lâche. La peau doit reprendre sa position initiale dès qu’on la lâche. Si le signe du pli de peau est persistant, cela signifie que la déshydratation est de 6 à 8%. Autre test simple : le temps de remplissage capillaire : on prend la lèvre du chien, on appuie avec le pouce de manière à obtenir une plage blanche et on attend qu’elle se recolore. Si ce temps de remplissage capillaire dépasse deux secondes, c’est la preuve que la déshydratation est de l’ordre de 10%, c’est-à-dire que pour un chien de 20 kgs, il lui manque deux litres d’eau. Si la déshydratation augmente, atteint 12 %, c’est l’état de choc qui se termine, s’il n’est pas coorigé tout de suite, par la mort de l’animal.
Breeding Terms explained
Breeding Terms explained
Breeding Terms explained
Brian le Mar 28 Avr - 16:40
Prior to supplying a greater definitiveness as to what is meant by the above systems of breeding, the following short explanations are given. In the broadest sense they contain the gist of the whole subject.
Line breeding is mating animals who are closely related to the same ancestor, preferably one whose type it is desired to obtain in the resultant progeny. In other words, it is accomplished by using for parents dogs who are closely related to that ancestor, but are little, if at all, related to each other through any other ancestors. They are, in effect, bred in line to that common ancestor. When a breeder says his dog is line bred, one immediately questions, "Line bred to what?" As we shall see later, the answer to that question enables us to somewhat evaluate the wisdom of having used this type of breeding in that instance.
Inbreeding implies a much closer relationship between the mating pair than does line breeding. Instead of involving second, third or more distant generations, it is generally understood to have to do with only four relationships—son to mother, father to daughter, brother to sister, half-brother to half-sister (both having the same sire and different darns, or the same dame and different sires). It should be remembered that when mating the progeny of two litters each having the same parents (from repeated matings, for instance), one is mating full blood brothers and sisters. That too is inbreeding.
Family Breeding
There is no complete concurrence of opinion among breeders as to where line breeding takes over from inbreeding, since the former is only a modification of the latter. We find that both terms are rather loosely used, that there are several intermediate relationships which are labeled inbreeding b~ some, line breeding by others. It is difficult to make any incontrovertible definition of the two terms, if indeed not impossible. It would be only confusing if we took up here what some breeders consider to be inbreeding, others line breeding, such as the mating of a dog to a half-brother or half-sister of one parent. There are several other such closely involved relationship matings upon which there are similar differences of opinion. However, in the broadest and most commonly accepted meanings of line breeding and inbreeding, explanations have been given above.
The reader should understand that there is an area of breeding between interrelated animals which is not entirely covered by the terms "inbreeding" and "line breeding" as defined here. For this type of breeding I have for years used the term "family breeding", which, to the best of my knowledge, I myself originated. Since "family breeding" is simply an extension of both inbreeding and line breeding, what I have to say about these will apply in some measure, of course, to family breeding.
Why Inbred or Line bred?
While it is important to understand that there are some differences in the selection of the mating dogs when using the systems of inbreeding and line breeding, it is of far greater value to know why these types of breeding are so often employed; why they are used by almost all successful breeders of any variety of livestock and what the results are likely to be, both good and bad. We shall pursue that subject now.
The purpose of both line breeding and inbreeding is to bring about breed improvement to get the best that is possible out of ones matings and to upgrade his stock. Experience has shown that if more than mere multiplication is to be had, and any rear and lasting results toward breed improvement are to be obtained, a breeder must use a system of line breeding, which not only combines animals very similar in their characteristics but narrows the pedigree to a few closely related lines of descent. This "purifies" the pedigree rapidly and enables a breeder to control, to some degree, all characteristics. It discourages variability and reduces it to a minimum.
Advantages of
The results obtained by this system of breeding can more certainly be predicted than the average breeder realizes. Few indeed are the dog fanciers who do more than mate bitch to dog HOPING for results that is no scientific reason to expect. When by good fortune one or two above average offspring do appear, they have nothing behind them upon which to base an expectation that they will pass on their desirable traits. On the other hand, when such superior offspring are produced by line breeding, and improvement is shown, it is backed up by the most powerful hereditary influence obtainable because of the simplicity and strength of the ancestry. If the SELECTION of this ancestry has been good, the "pulls" are all in the same direction. The records of all breeds show the pronounced salutary results that have come from judicious line breeding.
Disadvantages of
Selection by pedigrees alone, without consideration being given to the physical traits of the mating pair, is the chief danger in this system of breeding. The writer can state in the following few words the most important counsel to those who would attempt Line breeding: Physical compensation is the foundation rock upon which all enduring worth must be built. A line bred pedigree is valuable or dangerous in exact proportion as the individuals have been selected. Line breeding does not replace selection but, on the contrary, demands the most discriminating choosing within the line. If the breeder selects by pedigree, and without consideration to physical compensation, undoubtedly dogs with notable faults will result, and thus line breeding will insure failure quicker hid more certainly than will any other known system of breeding - No other breeding plan has ever brought about the good results of line breeding, and no other system will ever be so powerful in the production of consistently good animals, and this with the greatest certainty year after year. The principal requirement is not to abandon individual selection. A pedigree is a guarantee of bloodlines, a record of the blood of ancestors within which breeding operations and selection may, with confidence, be confined. The word "confined" is used advisedly for, after line breeding has been practiced for a few generations, the end result is the development of what is in effect a pure breed—a breed within a breed, so to speak. When that has occurred, any attempt to introduce "cold" blood (that of unrelated dogs of other strains) is likely to result in the penalties of hybridization. The departure from line breeding is a kind of "crossing" in a small degree, for when the blood of line bred animals becomes intensified they assume all the attributes of a distinct strain, which in truth they are, and they will likely behave as such for a long time.
In saying that line bred dogs tend to become like purebreds, or strains within their breeds, and that their progeny from a union with unrelated animals are like hybrids, I do not mean that such breedings should never be made, or that the results would be like breeding into an entirely different breed of dogs. While in some strains of animals line breeding and inbreeding have been intensified to a point where a herd or flock would be practically a breed of their own, I do not personally know of such a family in any breed of dogs today. However, there have been strains developed in some breeds to a point where their blood has become so dominant that it will not yield for several generations to any noticeable blending when out crossed, the characteristics of the inbred or line bred parent always showing up. This is, of course, to be expected.
In the dog game those who criticize the system of line breeding far outnumber its proponents. This is true for several reasons. There is a continual influx of beginners in breeding dogs, people who have never before mated one animal to another, or made any study of the subject. In their ignorance they believe that mating two dogs with "pedigrees", especially if both are winners, or better vet, "Champions", is all there is to it. Then, there are a multitude of breeders who refuse to take the time to make any study of genetics, who want only to breed dogs to sell and make money, and these have no interest in breed improvement through years of planned effort. Again, we have the many hit-or-miss breeders who hope for the good luck which sometimes strikes novices who by sheer accident come up with a real "topper" or two. In listing the opponents of closed-up breeding, one should not fail to mention owners of stud dogs, hungry for stud fees.
Fortunately there are in almost all breeds of dogs a very few fanciers intent upon consistently producing dogs superior to the average of the breed. Many of these know that the quickest and most certain way to do this is by line breeding.
Inbreeding
Because line breeding is more generally practiced than is inbreeding, I have dwelt more on the former so far in this article. The difference in the degree of relationship of mating pairs, as generally accepted by breeders, was explained, however. It might be well now to go more fully into the subject of inbreeding. This is "breeding in and in" and is line breeding carried to its limits. It possesses all the advantages and disadvantages of line breeding to their utmost attainable degree. Breeding a daughter to her sire gives rise to offspring three-fourths of whose bloodlines are those of the sire, a practice which, if continued, would soon result in progeny with but one line of ancestry, practically eliminating the blood of the original dam. This form of breeding is practiced when it is desired to secure all that is possible of the blood of the sire.
On the other hand, when a dam is bred to her son or sons successively, it increases the blood of the dam. This form is practiced when it is the dam’s bloodlines one desires to preserve and intensify. Either system can, of course, be approximated by the use of a granddaughter or grandson.
The breeding together of brother and sister is inbreeding which preserves the bloodlines from both sire and dam in equal proportions. It is inferior to either of the others as a means of strengthening previously existing bloodlines, but it is freely employed when the combination of sire and dam (of the brother and sister) has proved exceptionally successful, virtually setting a new type. It has all the dangers of the other two types of inbreeding, and in a greater degree because we have no knowledge of what the new combination will produce, whereas in strengthening the pro-portion of one line of ancestry over another, whether it be that of the sire or the dam, we are dealing with previously existing bloodlines known to be harmonious.
As previously stated, it is line breeding earned to its highest degree. When superior animals are used, it is the most powerful and sure way known of making the most of their excellence and perpetuating it. It is the method by which the highest possible percentage of the blood of an exceptional dog, or of a particularly fortunate "nick", can be kept, fused into, and finally made to influence an entire line of descent. If continued, the outside blood disappears and the pedigree is quickly loaded to an almost unlimited extent by the blood of a single animal, or two at the most. In practice it is usually that of a sire. Inbreeding is not so much a matter of originating excellence as of holding and making the greatest use of it when it appears.
A large proportion of prepotent sires have been inbred or at least closely line bred. An inbred dog is, of course, enormously more prepotent than one who has outcross breeding. Its half of the ancestry having a great deal of identical blood is almost certain to dominate the offspring when mated to one of the opposite sex having an "open" pedigree. (An "open" pedigree is one in which there does not appear the name of any one dog more than once in perhaps several generations.) Inbreeding is therefore recognized as the most influential of all breeding plans or systems, supplying the simplest of all pedigrees—an advantage when we recognize the laws of inheritance. It is all that line breeding is and more. When using either system it must again be cautioned that careful SELECTION must continually be made, both as to physical compensation and vigor and fertility. In conclusion on the matter of the advantages of inbreeding, I will repeat: No other method of breeding equals this for intensifying bloodlines, making the best use of exceptional individuals, and in building a strain within a breed.
Disadvantages of Inbreeding
Although the doubling up and intensifying of characteristics by this method of breeding insures results that are more probable than possible and, if continued long enough, are a certainty, it works the same for one trait as another, both good and bad. It affects all characteristics of the animals involved. That is why, unless a breeder knows a good individual of his breed when he sees one, or possesses the right stock to start with, inbreeding can bring disaster. On the other hand, when the opposite is true, the most strikingly successful results can be obtained. Examples of success are many, but so can one name many failures amongst those who have dropped out of the "game" and whose "strains" vanished or are disappearing.
Inbreeding Not Necessarily Disastrous
Undeniably, no form of breeding has so many who decry it, most of them entirely ignorant on the subject. They claim it causes lack of vigor, size and fertility, and a multitude of such instances could certainly be listed. However, if what has been written here, and been proven by innumerable tests and examples, has any meaning at all, it is that ANY characteristic can be bred up or down, strengthened or weakened, by this method of breeding. Some of what we know about the results of inbreeding in animals comes from the scattered and irregularly reported experiences of breeders. It is difficult to be at all sure that the evidence against inbreeding came from using animals who were typical of their breed and should have been inbred upon at the outset. There is also the question of whether one hears of the usual effects of such breedings or only of the exceptionally bad ones. Anything undesirable which does appear is apt to be blamed on inbreeding, in spite of the fact that equally bad results often occur when no inbreeding has been done. There is usually no way of making comparisons, that is, with non-inbred animals kept under the same conditions, fed and reared in the same way.
Since it is universally agreed by all breeders and geneticists that ANY characteristic can be bred up or down, strengthened or weakened, by inbreeding (providing rigid selection is followed), why then this claim that it will bring about a loss of size, vigor and fertility? Are there some inherent traits, which come from close breeding, or is it merely that lack of vigor and fertility are commonly possessed characteristics and frequently show up? Many think it is the latter. There are so many examples of great vigor and fertility in inbred individuals, and of family lines, and even in whole species of plants and animals, as to obviate all fear of inevitable weaknesses from close breeding, but it doesn’t take much investigation to indicate to us that there is lurking weakness and infertility everywhere. It is particularly evident in humans and in domesticated animals. A large number of animals, and an apparently larger number of plants, are relatively weak and easily succumb to disease. In nature the strongest live and beget offspring, whereas the weaklings die. In breeding animals we are liable to select largely for show or utility type, yes, even for color, ignoring, or trusting to luck, as to vigor and fertility. Is it any wonder then that these traits have crept upon us until they of ten present a strong argument against inbreeding, although they also appear amongst entirely outcross bred dogs?
When we SELECT for vigor and fertility, as well as for other attributes, there will be less talk about the evils of inbreeding. In the meantime we shall hear about it mostly where vitality and fertility were low in the stock inbred upon. Because both of these are requisites — one to insure life and the other for reproduction—they should be possessed in a high degree by the dogs one intends to inbreed upon.
Charles Darwin learned from hundreds of experimental tests with both plant and animal life that crossbreeding, or "out crossing" as we speak of it in dog breeding, often increases vigor and fertility. He also found that this was not true in all individuals, or in all species, even those most sensitive to inbreeding. His experiments showed that sometimes the opposite (weakness and infertility) occurred and he could not solve the mystery of the cause. Much of this "mystery" for which no explanation could then be offered has been largely dispelled by modern knowledge of heredity. It would necessitate writing at great length were I to describe even a few of his, and many other scientists’, experiments, as well as involve us in complicated scientific terms. This I will refrain from doing, to keep my treatise as understandable as possible to the average reader, since I am not writing for experienced dog breeders or students of genetics. For them this article is elementary, with nothing supplied that they do not already know.
Recapitulation
To those for whom it is written, however, a summation of the total effects of inbreeding, and to a modified degree that of line breeding, follows.
All characteristics both good and bad exist in various degrees in different dogs. One wishes in his matings to secure and retain the desirable characteristics, and it is easily demonstrable that this can best be accomplished by inbreeding and, to a lesser degree, by line breeding. It is also easy to show that, by using the same methods of breeding, the lowest intensity of undesirable characteristics is attainable. Results are entirely dependent upon SELECTION, remembering that
"Physical compensation is the foundation rock upon which all enduring worth must be built".
Linebreeding - As long as the common ancestors are within the first 3 generations but in saying that the degree would depend on how many times the common ancestor/line appears in those 3 generations.
Outcross - With our breeding we class anything with no common ancestors within the first 3 generations as an outcross.
Les médecines naturelles et nos chiens
Les médecines naturelles et nos chiens
Les médecines naturelles
Les médecines naturelles, dites encore holistiques (du grec 'holos', entier) présentent la particularité de ne pas s'attacher à soigner le ou les symptômes mais l'individu dans son ensemble. En fait, les médecines naturelles cherchent à remonter à l'origine de la maladie ou du mal-être, qui ne sont que les manifestations d'un déséquilibre intérieur. Les vétérinaires pratiquant les médecines naturelles se font rares. Elles représentent pourtant un intérêt certain en cela qu'elles n'occasionnent aucn effet secondaire à l'animal et permettent parfois la résolution de certains problèmes de santé sur le long terme, là où la médecine traditionnelle, dite allopathie, n'apportera qu'une guérison temporaire. Les médecines naturelles les plus usitées sur le chien sont l'homéopathie, l'acupuncture, l'ostéopathie et la phytothérapie.
L'homéopathie
L'homépathie, qu'est-ce que c'est ?
L'homéopathie repose sur le principe de similitude : certaines molécules minérales, animales et végétales administrées à forte dose à des individus sains font apparaître chez eux des symptômes semblables à ceux de certaines maladies; à l'inverse, lorsqu'elles sont administrées à des doses infinitésimales à des individus malades, ces mêmes molécules font disparaître les symptômes. Il existe aujourd'hui plus de deux milles remèdes homéopathiques, chacun correspondant aux symptômes d'une maladie (allergie, grippe etc.). Leur mode d'administration dépend de l'approche du praticien : uniciste (1 remède répondant à l'ensemble des symptômes), pluraliste (constitution d'un remède adapté à l'individu à partir du mélange dosé de plusieurs remèdes) ou complexiste (administration de plusieurs remèdes différents pour traiter une combinaison de symptômes). En France, les deux premières approches sont les plus répandues. Afin de choisir le ou les remède(s) les plus efficaces, l'homéopathe cherche à cerner avec précision le contexte dans lequel le désordre est survenu : saisonnalité des symptômes? régime alimentaire? mode de vie? Car contrairement à ce que prévoit la médecine vétérinaire traditionnelle, le remède homéopathique s'attaque à l'origine du symptôme et non au symptôme en lui-même : par exemple, traiter un eczéma par un remède anti-allergique ou un anti-inflammatoire local si l'origine réelle du problème est le stress ne présente que peu d'intérêt. D'où l'importance de bien connaître l'individu pour le soigner.
Comment est fabriqué un remède homéopathique ?
Un remède homéopathique se présente sous la forme de granulés de lactose sur lesquels a été déposé une goutte de solution contenant le principe actif. Ce principe actif (plante, venin etc.) a été préalablement macéré dans un mélange d'eau et d'alcool afin d'obtenir ce que l'on nomme une teinture-mère. Cette teinture-mère a ensuite été diluée à 1% et plus dans de l'alcool.
Quel intérêt pour mon chien ?
L'homéopathie offre souvent de très bons résultats sur le long terme dans le cas de troubles récurrents (stress, allergies, épilepsie). En rééquilibrant les forces vitales internes de l'individu, elle stabilise son état général et limite ou supprime durablement les malaises ou maladies qui découlent d'un déséquilibre intérieur.
L'ostéopathie
L'ostéopathie, qu'est-ce que c'est?
L'ostéopathie est la science de la manipulation du squelette à travers le corps. Elle part du principe que chaque maladie ou manifestation externe de malaise (dépression, migraine, douleurs lombaires etc.) a pour cause un déséquilibre interne au niveau du squelette, des muscles, du crâne ou des organes digestifs. L'ostéopathie n'est pas un remède en soi. Son objectif est de dénouer les tensions perceptibles au niveau des articulations afin d'améliorer la circulation sanguine et le fonctionnement des organes et du système nerveux. Ainsi libéré de ses 'noeuds' et blocages, l'organisme offre une meilleure réponse immunitaire et les remèdes éventuellement administrés par ailleurs sont mieux assimilés. Pour arriver à ce résultat, l'ostéopathe cherche les points de tension par palpation, puis opère ensuite des manipulations au niveau des articulations concernées.
Quel intérêt pour mon chien ?
L'ostéopathie est particulièrement intéressante pour le chien de travail ou de sport. A titre préventif, elle permet de dénouer les tensions nerveuses ou musculaires avant qu'elles n'aboutissent à un accident ou une maladie. A titre curatif, elle accélère la guérison ou la recalcification en cas de fracture, entorse ou troubles digestifs liés au stress et à la fatigue.
L'acupuncture
L'acupuncture, qu'est-ce que c'est ?
L'acupuncture fait partie des médecines traditionnelles chinoises. Elle définit l'individu comme un réseau de méridiens à travers lesquels circule l'énergie vitale. Dans cette logique, chaque méridien est rattaché à un organe ou une partie du corps. Chez l'individu en santé, l'énergie circule librement à travers le corps. Ce n'est que lorsque l'énergie vitale est bloquée ou ralentie au niveau d'un méridien que survient la maladie. La technique de l'acupuncteur consiste alors à placer de fines aiguilles (processus indolore) le long des méridiens afin de libérer l'énergie et d'accélérer ainsi la guérison.
Quel intérêt pour mon chien ?
Concrètement, l'acupuncture améliore la circulation sanguine et stimule la production de sécrétions anti-inflammatoires et anti-douleurs, apportant à l'animal un soulagement rapide et sans effets secondaires. Cette médecine est très intéressante pour soulager les douleurs arthrosiques de nos compagnons à quatre pattes ou traiter leurs troubles nerveux.
La phytothérapie
La phytothérapie, qu'est-ce que c'est ?
Du grec phytos, plante, la phytothérapie est basée sur l'étude des propriétés naturelles des plantes. Certaines d'entre elles ont des propriétés lénifiantes ou au contraire stimulantes sur le système digestif, d'autres ont une influence sur le système nerveux ou la santé du derme. Séchées, réduites en poudre et conditionnées sous forme de gélules, ces plantes apportent leurs bienfaits à l'organisme sur un plus ou moins long terme.
Quel intérêt pour mon chien ?
La phytothérapie n'est pas utilisée pour guérir à proprement parler des maladies mais pour soulager des troubles passagers, tels que les troubles du sommeil, la nervosité, la constipation, les ballonements ou les chutes de poils excessives. A titre préventif, la phytothérapie permet de soutenir le chien dans des périodes potentiellement stressantes ou traumatisantes (compétition, déménagement, pension etc.). A titre curatif, elle est surtout proposée pour soulager les phénomènes anxieux, en particulier l'anxiété dite de séparation (chien qui aboie ou détruit l'appartement quand il doit rester seul).
The seven stage apprenticeship for breeders.
The seven stage apprenticeship for breeders.
The seven stage apprenticeship for breeders.
Author Unknown
The Beginner:....Doing everything wrong. Buying wrong. Feeding wrong.
The Learner:.....Who now realise they have started badly and while still keeping their original mistake, have now learned better and are doing their best to set out on the right path.
The Novice:......Who have corrected their mistakes and are starting to win and are beginning to be known and recognised by other breeders and exhibitors.
The Everlasting Novice:These are always nice people with an equally charming dog. To them, dogs are a pleasant and interesting hobby.
The Middle-Range Breeder:This is the largest section of all. This is the average breeder who is definitely one of us. Recognised as reliable, breeding decent litters, rearing the puppies properly, with a good eye for a dog and the facilities to keep the odd stud dog and a nice bitch or two. These are the backbone of any breed and are indispensable because they supply the majority of the average puppies for sale; serve their own area with a decent stud dog and form the mass of ringsiders. These breeders are members of various breed clubs and support all activities. Being dead keen exhibitors they try their best to be an asset and a credit to their breed.
The Good Breeder:This is a rarer category because these breeders have realised something the middle rangers have not. That is that there is a definite thing called a good dog and that a decent dog is not quite good enough.The good breeder is always ready to learn and has taken the trouble to find out most of the advanced points, such as what constitutes a good lay of shoulder or a good length of hock and where other virtues may be found. The good breeder knows what a good head feels and looks like; what constitutes good expression and understands structure with an eye to the dog's use as a herding animal. The good breeder has nice stock and has learned how to use it to best advantage. He may still depend on other people's studs to try and improve each litter, but has learned that the title of 'Champion' does not automatically mean the dog carrying this title is necessarily the best for his purpose. The good breeder is trying to improve all the time and will sell a bitch or dog that the middle ranger would have stuck to, realising that either he has better in his kennel or that these good dogs are not quite good enough. These are the breeders that supply the middle rangers with better stock when they themselves wish to raise their standards. The good breeder has nearly always had ten years or more experience with dogs and is recognised as such
The Top Breeder:...This is a very difficult category to define, although we all know them. There will be about 20 of them at any given time. They go on, seemingly forever, always able to produce a good one, always with quality finished dogs, these usually having failings rather than faults, and give nothing away in type, style, make and shape. Usually they have been at the top for many years and have a strain of their own, readily recognised as being of a distinct and individual type. They never seem to disappear and very few breeders join their ranks. They are often than not internationally known names and if we get two new top breeders in ten years who are really going to last and have an influence on the breed, than we are lucky.
To reach the level of "good ordinary middle range breeders" you must have done your homework, been breeding at least three years, have bred your first three litters and have discovered and recovered from any initial mistakes you made. Now you are in that vast reservoir of breeders that go to make the breed. This reservoir is fed from below by the novices. It is easy to get into, almost inevitable, if you are seriously interested in dogs and have the opportunity to make it a major hobby. It is very difficult to get out of the middle-range and many never do.
The first question is, can you keep on with it? You have to able to keep at least five or six dogs to be able to breed two or three litters a year and run on a couple of puppies from each litter, at least until you can see which is the best for you to keep. You have to have the room, a fair area of land and good neighbours. A keen and compatible mate is useful and you must somehow contrive never to forget your children.
How to get out of the middle-range and move to becoming a good breeder is the next question. Many never succeed. There are many reasons why they fail.
One of the first problems comes from how they moved up to the middle-range in the first place. As novices, they may have fixed any initial mistakes in their buying. We all start out with a pet we will have for the next ten years. Then they will have gone to a good kennel and bought a decent bitch or puppy or two.It must be remembered that neither the good breeder nor the top breeder will sell their very best bitch or puppy.
So the novice will start with a decent dog/bitch with some "if" that caused the breeder to sell it. So now the middle-ranger has a kennel of original, loved mistakes, a decent bitch or two, or maybe two or three youngsters from earlier buys.
Now we come to the first disadvantage - any pup he breeds will be judged against his own collection of dogs. Those that are worse will be sold. Anything better will stand out, but those 'much of a muchnesses' will often be kept as well. Thus he will clone his own mediocracy. The average standard of the kennel will improve slowly, if at all. The plateau ( the kennel norm) will be fair to average, and, when these puppies get into the show ring they will still be fair to average, because all the other middle-rangers will have stock of exactly the same standard.
The good breeders plateau will be at a much higher level. The stock in their kennels will be judged against a higher standard and anything not up to scratch will be sold. If the middle-ranger can somehow recognize this and raise the plateau, he is on his way to being a better breeder.
The second obstacle to the middle-breeder is the ringside - his fellow middle-range competitors. The ringsiders who have some knowledge but not a lot of experience will go for the obvious choice from the ringside:- the nicely balanced, well presented, good showman, and will nearly always judge on outward appearance, because they can not do much else from where they are standing. They can not "go into" the dogs, which is what the judge must do, and he isn't much of a judge unless he does go thoroughly into his dogs.
What the ringside can't know is that the judge may find that the popular choice doesn't stand "looking into". But the judge finds that the top breeders dog in the same class does not fall to pieces under his hands, so up goes the top breeder's dog, and down goes the ringside choice. The ringside agree amongst themselves that 'once again wrong has triumphed and a name has won and that there is no honesty or justice in the game. This is a very big obstacle because the middle-ranger can find an excuse for his own loss. Instead of looking at his dog and judging it against the top dogs, he agrees with the ringside that 'names' win because of influence.
Many middle-rangers fail on the next obstacle of 'ignorance'. They have not learned from their homework, studied the breed and what it was bred for, looked at the old photos and tread what the old-timers said. They have not bothered to learn anatomy, not even the little bit one requires to judge a dog. They have, as learners, learned from and listened to learners and they do not know their stuff. They do not know the standard and will perpetuate myths about what a dog should have or what it should be, often erroneously. Often they blindly follow the word of the cult leader they admire. If the winner is not of that breeding, it is worthless. They look, but they do not appreciate a good dog wherever it is found.
This is where many middle-rangers get stuck. If they do not 'get on', it is because they get a small judging assignment at a match. Then the eyes of the blind MAY get opened. They may come to realize the vast difference between a an average dog and a good dog. If they can atake advantage of this experience, they are on the right track. However, there seems to be a lot of middle-rangers who can learn nothing from handling a good dog. They can always find faults but never bother to learn outright virtues. They will stay owning decent, average dogs, just above the mediocre level, having few faults but no great virtues.
The last big obstacle for the breeder trying to rise from the middle-range is that he gets cluttered up with stock. He can't get rid of his original mistakes. He loves them. He can't part with his first 'home-bred' for sentimental reasons. He keeps two each from his first litters, breeds annually and wants another litter from his foundation bitch. Then he thinks it is time to keep a stud dog. Before he knows it he is cluttered up with 15 dogs. His neighbours, spouse and friends are complaining and the work becomes overpowering. It is important to know what and how to sell to keep yourself going with room to improve.
Through the years the number of middle-rangers seems to stay the same. They always make up the largest group of breeders. Few seem to graduate into the good breeder category. Some advance because they raise the plateau of their own kennel. Most fail to get ahead for a number of reasons. They have a useful bitch and want to improve on her, so they consider the top champions as the ladder to which to take her. Somehow the 'newish' breeder will have a vague idea that to mate to the top dog somehow puts their bitch into a top category. They will seldom consider using anything else, even if this dog does not suit the bitch. The champion sired pups are easier to sell. However, the suitability of this mating is rarely questioned.
The middle-ranger does not yet have a string of his own. That is, a very advanced string and is really only found amongst the best and oldest breeders
Using a champion dog that ties in with your bitchs pedigree is an excellent way of grading up, providing you know the inherent dangers in the line you are collecting.
Many breeders are not even this logical. They breed to the big winner of the day or to the dog that is promoted the most. As soon as he becomes the dog of the day, every middle-range breeder send their bitch to him. His type doesn't matter. He is the top dog and he gets the bitches. Using the dog of the day will probably grade your norm up slowly and every little bit helps, until the day you want to breed from the progeny. Then you find that almost every dog and bitch in the country are either by him or one of his grandchildren. It then becomes the problem to find a dog they can use.
For the middle-range breeder to get higher, he must study his own stock and must look at the various dogs inthe ring. He must have a perfect clear picture in his mind of exactly what he wants.
To grade up into the good breeder ranks, you have to think for yourself, rather than let judges or other handlers /breeders do it for you. Once you do this, and start getting the dogs you want, you can grade up a lot quicker because you are breeding stock from stock YOU have improved. Thus the dog you select to help you improve will be almost sure to produce at least one puppy you will like, not just accept. And at last you are on the way up...
By Minty on bull breeds online
Thanks 
Diverses disciplines sportives
Diverses disciplines sportives
L'Agility
L'agility est une discipline gérée par la CNEA (Commission Nationale d'Education et d'Agility), organisme dépendant de la SCC (Société Centrale Canine). Ce sport comporte deux types d'épreuves :
- l'agility à proprement parler : un parcours d'obstacles (haies, tunnel, passerelle, balançoire, palissade) que le chien doit franchir en un minimum de temps avec une parfaite qualité d'exécution.
- le jumping : un parcours d'obstacles essentiellement composé de sauts, mais aussi de tunnels et d'un slalom.
Quand le chien n'a commis aucune erreur (chaque faute est pénalisée), c'est le chronomètre qui désigne le vainqueur. Ces deux épreuves d'agility sont ouvertes à tous les chiens, avec ou sans papiers de naissance (LOF ou non LOF). La hauteur des obstacles à franchir est fonction de la taille de l'animal (parcours catégorie A pour les petits chiens, B pour les chiens de taille moyenne, C pour les chiens de grande taille et D pour les chiens de très grande taille).
Le Flyball
Le Flyball n'est pas encore reconnu comme une discipline officielle, mais un groupe de travail au sein de la CNEA travaille actuellement à une règlementation précise afin qu'elle le devienne et prévoit d'ici peu l'organisation des premiers concours. Venue tout droit des Etats Unis, cette discipline plaît aux chiens comme aux maîtres par son aspect ludique. Le principe est celui d'une course en relais, au cours de laquelle chaque chien doit franchir des haies pour arriver devant une sorte de boîte (appelée 'lanceur') contenant des balles de tennis. Le chien actionne alors une pédale avec sa patte et le lanceur éjecte trois balles l'une après l'autre. Le chien doit en attraper au moins une sur les trois et la rapporter à son maître la plus vite possible. Une fois la balle en possession du maître, le second chien peut démarrer la course à son tour.
L'Obé rythmée (Dog Dance)
L'Obé rythmée ou Dog Dance est une discipline officiellement reconnue par la SCC depuis peu de temps : la toute première coupe de France s'est déroulée fin 2006. Le principe est de présenter une chorégraphie avec son chien sur fond musical, sur la base d'exercices d'obéissance plus ou moins classiques (positions, saut, roulade etc.). Les exercices sont exclusivement enseignés au chien par des méthodes naturelles d'éducation (cf. rubrique 'Clicker Training'), sans contrainte ni violence, car le but de la discipline est d'offrir le spectacle d'un chien travaillant dans la joie et le plaisir, en parfaite harmonie avec son maître.
Le Canicross
Le Canicross en tant que tel est ouvert à toutes personnes et à tous types de chiens. Une licence de la CNEA ou de la FSLC (obtenue par l'inscription dans un club affilié) est indispensable pour l'homologation des résultats obtenus en compétition. Cette discipline est une sorte de marathon canin, où maître et chien, reliés par le biais d'une laisse tendue entre le harnais de l'animal et la ceinture spéciale 'course' de son co-équipier humain, effectuent en courant un parcours chronométré en terrain naturel. Tous les chiens, avec ou sans papiers, sont autorisés à concourir. Le seul impératif, hormis la sociabilité de l'animal avec les autres concurrents à deux et quatre pattes, est que le chien ne doit jamais se trouver derrière son maître mais toujours devant ou au même niveau.
Il existe deux disciplines dérivées du Canicross, appelées Cani-VTT (ou Canicyclocross) et Canimarche. Le règlement est identique à celui du Canicross, à la différence près que le maître fait la course sur un Vélo Tout Terrain pour le Cani-VTT et que le parcours se fait en marchant (allure libre) pour le Canimarche. A l'heure actuelle, cette discipline est quelque peu victime d'un manque de coordination des fédérations qui la promouvent. La CNEA est la Commission officiellement désignée par la SCC pour gérer ces activités, mais une licence FSLC (Fédération des Sports et Loisirs Canins) donne accès aux championnats d'Europe de Canicross. Dans tous les cas de figure, seules les personnes titulaires d'une Licence Compétiteur peuvent prétendre à des titres officiels.
Le Ski Pulka
Le Ski Pulka est géré par la FFPTC (Fédération Française de Pulka et Traineau à Chiens) ou la FFST (Fédération Française des Sports de Traîneaux). Pour la FFPTC, seuls les chiens de type nordique sont autorisés à concourir (races reconnues par la Fédération Canine Internationale ou croisements de ces races titulaires d'un passeport délivré par la FFPTC). Pour la FFST, tous les chiens, LOF ou non LOF, sont acceptés.
La Pulka est une sorte de luge tractée par un à trois chiens et derrière laquelle le maître fait du ski de fond, en étant relié à la luge par une corde élastique. Les races les plus représentées dans cette discipline sont les chiens de type Alaskan Husky (chien originaire d'Alaska et issu du croisement de chiens esquimaux et indiens), les Greysters (issus d'un croisement entre braque et greyhound) et les races nordiques traditionnelles (Siberian husky, Malamute d'Alaska, Gröenlandais, Samoyède).
Le Skijoring
Le Skijoring repose sur le même principe que le Ski Pulka... mais sans la Pulka ! Le skieur est directement relié par la taille au harnais de son chien ou de ses deux chiens (nombre maximum). Dans cette discipline, les chiens doivent tracter le skieur, qui doit donc toujours se trouver derrière eux. Ce sport implique non seulement une parfaite maîtrise du ski de fond mais encore une parfaite condition physique.
Le traineau à chiens
Tout comme le Ski Pulka et le Skijoring, cette discipline est gérée par la FFPTC d'un côté et la FFST de l'autre. Les attelages sont formés de 2 à 8 chiens au plus et concourent dans des catégories différentes en fonction du nombre de chiens de l'attelage et des races qui les composent (catégorie 1 spéciale 'Husky' et catégorie 2 pour les autres races).
Cette discipline demande de véritables compétences de Musher (conducteur de traîneau à chiens) et un budget conséquent car l'achat et l'entretien du matériel comme des chiens est relativement onéreux.
Le Cavage
Le Cavage est une discipline reconnue par la SCC et gérée par une Commission de Cavage créée en 1991. Le Cavage est l'art de localiser des truffes (champignons) dans le sol. Cette discipline met en avant les qualités olfactives du chien. Tous les chiens titulaires d'une licence de cavage SCC et d'un carnet de travail, avec ou sans papiers, sont autorisés à participer. En revanche, seuls les chiens LOF verront leurs résultats homologués pour l'obtention du CACT (Certificat d'Aptitude au Championnat de Travail).
Il existe deux catégories de concours : les concours de catégorie A, réservés aux chiens débutants et/ou aux chiens de moins de 10 mois; et les concours de catégorie B, classe ouverte, accessible après l'obtention d'au moins un 'Excellent' en classe A.
Le Travail sur troupeaux
Longtemps réservée aux professionnels de l'élevage ovin, cette discipline reconnue par la SCC est désormais ouverte aux particuliers sous plusieurs conditions. Les concours échelon I sont ouverts aux chiens LOF et non LOF, sous réserve d'obtention d'un CACCBT (Certificat d'Aptitude à la Conduite du Chien de Berger sur Troupeaux). L'obtention de ce certificat implique au préalable un apprentissage de la discipline auprès d'un Moniteur Troupeaux habilité par la SCC, puis le passage d'un examen comportant une épreuve théorique (QCM) et pratique (travail du chien sur un troupeau). Cette discipline est gérée par la Commission d'Utilisation Nationale Chiens de Troupeaux (CUN-CT).
Les échelons II et III ne sont accessibles qu'aux chiens de race bergère inscrits au LOF. Deux mentions 'Excellent' obtenus en échelon II permettent d'obtenir un Brevet de Chien de Troupeaux et d'accéder à l'échelon III. Les concours échelon III constituent en fait les sélectifs du Championnat de France de Chiens de Troupeaux.
Le Field Trial
Reconnue par la SCC et gérée par la Commission d'Utilisation Nationale des Chiens d'arrêt, cette discipline comporte deux branches distinctes : les épreuves réservées aux chiens d'arrêt continentaux et les épreuves réservées aux chiens d'arrêt britanniques (spaniels, retrievers etc.). Le Field Trial (concours de chiens d'arrêt) se décline en Fields d'été, Fields de printemps et Fields d'automne. En fonction de la saisonnalité, différentes aptitudes sont évaluées, comme la sagesse devant le gibier ou l'indifférence aux coups de feu.
La Chasse Chiens Courant
Cette discipline est gérée par la Commission Vénerie (Commission SCC). Réservée aux chiens courants du 6e groupe inscrits au LOF, elle comporte des épreuves sur petits ou grands gibiers, ainsi que des épreuves spécifiques 'lièvre' ou 'bassets sur lièvre'. Les concours sont accessibles à partir d'un Brevet de Chasse.
Les courses de lévrier
Petit Lévrier Italien
Il existe deux principaux types de courses de lévrier, tous deux gérées par la Commission Nationale d'Utilisation des Lévriers (CNULEV). Ces concours sont réservés aux chiens du groupe 10 (lévriers) inscrits au LOF, titulaires d'un Brevet d'Aptitude aux Courses (BAC) et d'une attestation de validité délivrée par un club agréé.
- Les Epreuves Nationales sur Cynodrome (ENC) ont lieu sur pistes gazonnées ou sableuses, avec obligatoirement une ligne droite d'au moins 40m au départ et des virages d'au moins 8m de large. Les chiens sont dans des boîtes de départ, alignées horizontalement et séparées d'au moins 10cm chacune. Lorsque le signal de départ retentit, les portes des boîtes s'ouvrent simultanément et les chiens s'élancent derrière un leurre automatisé fixé sur un rail en bordure de piste.
- La Poursuite à Vue sur Leurre (PVL) a lieu en terrain dégagé (3 à 6 hectares minimum selon les parcours), herbeux, terreux ou sablonneux. La poursuite se fait sur 300 à 600m selon les races et les tailles de lévriers. Le chien poursuit en champ libre un leurre manoeuvré par un système de poulie permettant d'imiter les virages et les angles droits d'un véritable lièvre.
Les accès aux championnats sont règlementés de manière extrêmement rigoureuse.
Physiologie du chien de sport et de travail
Physiologie du chien de sport et de travail
Physiologie du chien de sport et de travail
Introduction
L'effort physique provoque chez le chien un certain nombre de modifications psycho-physiologiques qu'il convient de prendre en compte afin d'optimiser ses performances et de prévenir l'apparition de pathologies associées.
Comment ça marche ?
Lors d'un exercice physique, le rythme cardiaque s'accélère (jusquà 300 battements par minutes chez certains chiens) afin d'envoyer plus rapidement vers les tissus l'oxygène transporté par le sang. En effet, un apport suffisant en oxygène est indispensable au bon fonctionnement du muscle. Cet apport dépendra essentiellement de la capacité maximale du chien à consommer de l'oxygène ('VO2 max'). Cette VO2 max est en premier lieu conditionnée par des facteurs génétiques (les chiens de traîneau lignée travail atteignent fréquemment une VO2 max supérieure à 200ml/min/kg, contre moins de 100ml pour la majorité des chiens de race bergère), mais aussi par des facteurs extérieurs, comme l'alimentation ou l'entraînement.
L'activité musculaire résulte d'une production d'énergie. Les micro-éléments contenus dans les fibres musculaires interagissent pour permettre la transformation de l’énergie chimique contenue dans les aliments (nutriments) en énergie mécanique (action de contraction du muscle). Pour en arriver à ce résultat, l’organisme du chien doit d’abord synthétiser une molécule appelée ATP (adénosine tri-phosphate). En situation d'effort maîtrisé, la synthèse de l’ATP nécessite la présence d’oxygène et se fait principalement à partir des apports en glucose (glucides) et en acides gras (lipides) de l’alimentation. L’ATP est LA molécule qui convertit effectivement l’énergie chimique des nutriments en énergie mécanique. La difficulté de l’opération réside dans le fait qu’une molécule d’ATP ne peut servir qu’une seule fois. L’organisme doit donc en synthétiser en permanence, d’autant plus rapidement que l’effort musculaire est intense et la dépense énergétique importante.
Pour produire de l’énergie pendant l'effort, l'organisme a trois possibilités.Il peut d'abord utiliser le mode anaérobique (= sans oxygène) analactique (=sans production d'acide lactique). Ce mode de production d'énergie survient au début d'un effort violent et ne peut de toute façon se poursuivre au delà de 3 ou 4 secondes. La seconde possibilité est dite mode anaérobique (= sans oxygène) lactique (= avec production d’acide lactique) : ce mode se met en place lorsque le muscle n’est pas ou plus suffisamment approvisionné en oxygène et qu’il ne peut donc pas ou plus convertir lipides et glucides en ATP. Il va alors aller puiser dans ses propres réserves une substance apparentée au glucose appelée glycogène (forme de stockage des glucides au niveau du foie et du muscle), qui ne nécessite pas d’oxygène pour être converti en ATP. Cette réserve de glycogène (sucres complexes) est très faible et son utilisation génère la production d’acide lactique, qui est un déchet énergétique toxique. Enfin, la dernière possibilité de production d’énergie est appelée mode aérobique (= avec oxygène). C’est le mode qui s'installe et se maintient lorsque l'effort est maîtrisé (atteinte du 'plateau'). En mode aérobique, le chien métabolise les lipides et les glucides pour les convertir en ATP, chaque molécule de glucose ou de lipide exploitée par l'organisme induisant au passage la consommation de molécules d'oxygène. Or, dans ce mode de fonctionnement, une molécule de glucose produit 39 ATP alors qu’une molécule d’acide gras en produit 129. Voilà pourquoi les aliments pour chiens sportifs ont un taux de glucides inférieur à la moyenne et, à l'inverse, un taux de lipides supérieur à la moyenne. En mode aérobique, les déchets énergétiques (CO2, eau) sont naturellement éliminés ou réutilisés par l’organisme. Pour atteindre le stade aérobique (effort maîtrisé), une phase d’adaptation à l’effort doit avoir lieu, d’où l’importance de faire s’échauffer le chien avant le début de chaque exercice physique.
Contrairement à l’organisme humain, qui tire l’essentiel de son énergie des glucides (sucres), l’organisme canin tire l’essentiel de son énergie des lipides (graisses). Le chien, et en particulier le chien sportif, doit donc en consommer en quantité importante, car les lipides sont le carburant dont il a besoin pour ses activités physiques. Les lipides apportent au chien 2,25 fois plus d’énergie (calories) que les protéines ou les glucides (9 kcal pour 1 gramme de lipide contre 4 pour 1 gramme de glucide).
Mais les protéines sont elles aussi indispensables à l’organisme du chien, comme à celui de l’homme. Dans le cas du chien sportif, elles doivent être d’excellente qualité (hautement assimilables) et données en quantité élevée. Le rôle premier des protéines n’est pas de fournir de l’énergie mais de construire et de réparer les tissus musculaires et, plus largement, de régénérer les cellules de l’organisme quotidiennement abîmées. Les protéines sont donc les bâtisseurs du corps : sans elles, il s’effondre. Le capital musculaire du chien sportif étant mis à rude épreuve, on comprend vite l’intérêt d’un régime à haute valeur protéique pour ce dernier.
Lorsqu’on parle d’efforts et d’activités sportives, il est un facteur à ne surtout pas négliger : l’oxygénation des tissus, qui permet de maintenir l’effort sans fatigue ni douleur. Les premiers signes de fatigue (essoufflement, déperdition de force, crampes) surviennent lorsque l’oxygène véhiculé par le sang commence à manquer. Pour cette raison, on doit considérer comme néfaste l’administration des glucides (à l’exception du fructose) aux chiens sportifs : comme on l’a vu, les molécules de glucose (glucide transformé par l’organisme) produisent peu d’énergie, mais elles consomment beaucoup d’oxygène. Il est donc important que l’alimentation du chien sportif soit non seulement riche en lipides et en protéines, mais aussi très pauvre en glucides. Pour favoriser la bonne oxygénation des tissus musculaires, on veillera à fournir des nutriments qui améliorent la circulation sanguine et donc la circulation de l’oxygène transporté dans le sang, comme les acides gras omega 3 et la vitamine PP (niacine).
Il est également primordial de maintenir un taux d’hydratation constant dans l’organisme du chien pendant et après l’effort : l’eau est indispensable à l’élimination des déchets énergétiques (un muscle qui « chauffe » rejette un certain nombre d’éléments dont certains se révèlent nocifs s’ils ne sont pas évacués par l’organisme). L’eau est aussi le principal constituant du muscle : un muscle, comme toutes les cellules de l'organisme, est composé en moyenne à 70% d’eau, 20% de protéines et 10% de graisses.
L’alimentation du chien sportif doit donc fournir à la fois un maximum d’énergie et tous les éléments capables d’exploiter au mieux ce potentiel énergétique, le tout dans une ration de faible volume, afin d’éviter les surcharges et les risques d’accident qui y sont associés plus ou moins directement (torsions d’estomac, claquages, entorses, syncope etc.).
Parallèlement à la dépense énergétique qu’elle suppose, l’activité sportive impacte l’ensemble du squelette du chien : des compléments alimentaires comme la chondroïtine et la glucosamine, déjà naturellement présentes dans les os et les cartilages mais qui ont tendance à diminuer avec l’âge, favoriseront la protection et la régénération des cartilages articulaires.
Prévention des accidents et pathologies de l'effort
Torsions d'estomac, arthrose, claquages, entorses, ruptures ligamentaires, hypertrophie cardiaque : voici les risques encourus par un chien actif dont l'entraînement, l'alimentation ou les soins seraient inadaptés à sa physiologie.
Le chien actif doit bénéficier d'une alimentation non seulement spécifique à l'effort, mais encore spécifique au type d'effort qu'il entreprend. Si un 'ringueur' effectuant 3 à 4 entraînements par semaine peut se satisfaire d'une alimentation équilibrée à 28-30% de protéines et 18-20% de lipides (contre environ 20-22% de protéines et 10-12% de lipides pour un chien sédentaire), un chien de traîneau parcourant quotidiennement dans le froid vingt à trente kilomètres au trot aura besoin d'un aliment à teneur en protéines comprise entre 35 et 40% et à teneur en lipides à peu près équivalente. L'alimentation devra également tenir compte des périodes d'activité : aliment d'entretien de bonne qualité en période de repos, ration de travail en période d'entraînements ou de compétitions.
Selon le mode d'alimentation choisie (aliments secs, rations ménagères), des compléments alimentaires seront à ajouter à la ration pour favoriser la combustion des graisses (L-Carnitine), fournir à l'organisme une source d'énergie immédiatement disponible (Acides Gras à Chaîne Courte, comme l'huile de Coprah) ou protéger les tissus et les articulations (anti-oxydants, chondroïtine etc.). Si vous nourrissez votre chien à base de viandes crues (viandes recommandées : canard et poissons gras), il sera inutile, voire néfaste, de lui administrer de la L-Carnitine ou des anti-oxydants (la Carnitine et les anti-oxydants sont naturellements présents en grande quantité dans la viande crue). Vous devrez en revanche veiller à apporter à votre animal des éléments essentiels à la bonne assimilation des nutriments, comme les fibres solubles et le fructose (contenus dans les fruits), de la vitamine B (B9 ou acide folique en particulier) et des acides gras essentiels (huile de foie de morue, huile de colza, huile de pépin de raisins etc.). Comme indiqué dans la rubrique 'alimentation naturelle et alimentation industrielle', élaborer le menu d'un chien sportif est délicat : si vous nourrissez votre animal de façon naturelle (aliments frais non transformés), il est très fortement conseillé de demander conseil à votre vétérinaire, à moins que vous n'ayez vous-même d'excellentes connaissances en nutrition animale. Les conséquences d'une alimentation inadaptée ou déséquilibrée pour le chien actif sont désastreuses sur ses performances et sa santé à plus ou moins brève échéance.
L'entraînement de l'animal doit lui aussi être abordé de façon rationnelle. Pour développer et conserver les capacités physiques du chien, il est primordial d'augmenter progressivement mais régulièrement l'intensité et la durée de l'effort. Cette règle de base permet d'optimiser peu à peu le rendement cardio-respiratoire. Pour les chiens régulièrement soumis à des efforts violents de courte durée (sprint des lévriers de course, 'attaques' du ringueur ou du chien d'intervention, agility etc.), la méthode d'entraînement la plus utilisée et la plus efficace consiste à alterner des phases d'effort bref et intense avec des phases de récupération incomplète. L'organisme apprend ainsi à 'récupérer' plus rapidement et la masse musculaire augmente. A l'inverse, pour les chiens soumis à des efforts modérés sur du long terme (canicross, course de traîneaux, chasse, pistage), l'entraînement consistera plutôt à faire courir ou trotter le chien sur une longue distance, en ménageant entre les exercices des périodes de récupération complète. L'organisme du chien augmente ainsi sa capacité à consommer et utiliser l'oxygène.
Sources documentaires ayant servi à la rédaction de cet article :
https://www.bogeyman.org/
https://publications.royalcanin.com/
https://technicalim.ifrance.com/technicalim/dossier_sportif.htm
Old Tyme breeder
Old Tyme breeder
Like a lot of great things in the world of today such as football, rugby, cricket or the Queensbury rules, the history of these great things are British responsibilities. The same applies to the majority of great working dogs, be they running dogs, herding dogs or bull breeds. Our history makes it our responsibility to maintain these breeds in their original guise.
Our brutal past was not only imposed on our animals, but was part of people’s everyday lives. Whether a bare knuckle boxer, street kid or trader, life was hard and a step up the ladder only came from continual battles. Disease was rife and food was hard to come by, especially for the working classes.
The truth of the matter is when animals, including humans are faced with such adversities a certain mentality was undertaken, the survival of the fittest mentality; this included the live stock that shared our lives. The horses that could not perform their tasks were used for meat. Dogs that were unable to put food on the table or provide protection were disposed of.
These times produced hard people and the feelings of animals took second place to people’s welfare. Cheap food was achieved by the use of hunting animals, whether it is sight hounds, bull breed or mastiff types bringing home the bacon. Dogs were pitted against each other to achieve monetary gain for the owner and the gambling crowds.
This is not intended to be a history lesson, more to show the intense struggle the breeds have endured through the centuries and therefore highlight our present responsibility to them. These struggles gave us various types of dog that excelled at their given task. Over the years these dogs became set to type, their mindset and conformation was of the ultimate construction for the task.
For the bull, bear, and dog pit breeds, size and construction varied although to the untrained eye they are very similar. These different types should be studied by breed enthusiasts, and the subtle differences taken into account. Only then can we continue to breed and reproduce true replicas of yesterday’s canine gladiators.
The majority of bull breeds seen at K.C shows in the U.K are an untrue representation of the working dogs of the past, created by a misunderstanding of what body form a gladiator requires in order to stay the distance in his battles. These people do not understand the physical make up required for being able to bring these canines up to the physical fitness standards required for their original task, as most show bred stock lack the correct tools to achieve this state of fitness.
The K.C standards of these breeds are all well and good, but leave to much room for interpretation and exaggeration from the breeders fashion lead preferences.
It is true that most dogs today will never face such hard conditions again, nor should they, but the body structure they have been graced with and the unstoppable mental attitude processed by Bull breeds of all types should be protected, especially in the country of their origin.
I for one find bull breeds the most amazing creatures ever to have graced this world and the suffering of their past should be honoured by the retention of their greatest assets, their body and minds!
The future of our breeds needs protecting and education of the public is a vitally important. Shows, field trials, seminars and books with functional attributes being the focus are a way to achieve a brighter future for the modern bull breed, much good work is already being done but much more also needs to be done.
The breeds do have athletic shows to attend which are growing in size, but they are few and far between.
We need to come together and strike while the iron is hot to promote the return of the true British bull breed. The building blocks are there and it’s time to pick them up and build!
Here’s to the future, Neil Sherlock.
Revised standard for The Bulldog
Revised standard for The Bulldog
Head and Skull Skull relatively large in circumference. Viewed from front appears [delete – very] high from corner of lower jaw to apex of skull; also [Delete ‘very’] broad and square. Cheeks well rounded and extended sideways beyond eyes. Viewed from side, head appears very high and moderately short from back to point of nose. Forehead flat with skin on and about head, slightly loose and may be finely wrinkled, neither prominent nor overhanging face. [Delete ‘Projections of frontal bones prominent, broad, square and high; deep, wide indentation between eyes’]. From defined stop, a furrow [Delete ‘both broad and deep’] extending to middle of skull being traceable to apex. Face from front of cheek bone to nose, relatively short, skin may be slightly wrinkled. Muzzle short, broad, turned upwards and [Delete ‘very’] deep from corner of eye to corner of mouth. Nose and nostrils large, broad and black, under no circumstances liver colour, red or brown; [Delete ‘top set back towards eyes’]. [Delete ‘Distance from inner corner of eye (or from centre of stop between eyes) to extreme tip of nose not exceeding length from tip of nose to edge of underlip’]. Nostrils large, wide and open, with well defined vertical straight line between. Flews (chops) thick, broad, [delete ‘pendant and very’] and deep, covering [delete ‘hanging completely over’] lower jaws at sides, [delete ‘not in front’] but joining underlip in front. [Delete ‘and quite covering’] Teeth not visible. Jaws broad, strong, [delete – massive] and square, lower jaw slightly projecting in front of upper, with moderate turn up. [delete - and turning up]. Over nose wrinkle, if present, whole or broken, must never adversely affect or obscure eyes or nose. Pinched nostrils and heavy over nose wrinkle are unacceptable and should be heavily penalised. [Delete ‘Nose roll must not interfere with the line of layback’]. Viewed from front, the various properties of the face must be equally balanced on either side of an imaginary line down centre.
Eyes Seen from front, situated low down in skull, well away from ears. Eyes and stop in same straight line, at right angles to furrow. Wide apart, but outer corners within the outline of cheeks. Round [delete ‘in shape’], of moderate size, neither sunken nor prominent, in colour very dark – almost black – showing no white when looking directly forward. Free from obvious eye problems.
Neck Moderate in length, [Delete ‘very’] thick, deep and strong. Well arched at back, with some loose [delete ‘thick and wrinkled’] skin about throat, forming slight dewlap on each side. [Delete ‘from lower jaw to chest’].
Forequarters Shoulders broad, sloping and deep, very powerful and muscular giving appearance of being ’tacked on‘ body. Brisket [delete ‘capacious’], round and [delete ‘very’] deep [delete ‘from top of shoulders to lowest part where it joins chest’]. Well let down between forelegs. [Delete ‘Large in diameter, round behind forelegs’]. Ribs not flat-sided but well rounded. Forelegs very stout and strong, well developed, set wide apart, thick, muscular and straight, [Delete ‘presenting rather bowed outline, but’] bones of legs large and straight, not bandy nor curved and short in proportion to hindlegs, but not so short as to make back appear long, or detract from dog’s activity. [Delete ‘and so cripple him’]. Elbows low and standing well away from ribs. Pasterns short, straight and strong.
Body Chest wide, [delete ‘laterally round’] prominent and deep. Back short, strong, broad at shoulders [delete ‘comparatively narrower at loins’]. Slight fall to back close behind shoulders (lowest part) whence spine should rise to loins (top higher than top of shoulder), curving again more suddenly to tail, forming slight arch [delete ‘(termed roach back)’] – a distinctive characteristic of breed. Body well ribbed up behind with belly tucked up and not pendulous.
Hindquarters Legs large and muscular, slightly longer in proportion than forelegs, [delete ‘so as to elevate loins’]. Hocks slightly bent, well let down; legs long and muscular from loins to hock. [delete ‘short, straight, strong lower part’] Stifles [delete ‘round and’] turned very slightly outwards away from body. [Delete ‘Hocks thereby made to approach each other and hind feet to turn outwards’]
Gait/Movement [Delete ‘Peculiarly heavy and constrained’] Appearing to walk with short, quick steps on tips of toes, hind feet not lifted high, appearing to skim ground, running with one or other shoulder rather advanced. Soundness of movement of the utmost importance.
[Characteristics, Temperament, Ears, Mouth, Feet, Tail, Coat Colour Size, Faults, Note - no change.]
A step in the right direction 
A Little Pit History
A Little Pit History
Blood sports were so much a part of daily life in England that around 1800, in the town of Wednesbury in Staffordshire county, church bells rang in celebration of "Old Sal," when she finally managed to have puppies. Sal was famous for gameness but had never been able to whelp a litter. If a Bulldog bitch died during whelping in that mining district, women often raised the puppies by suckling them at their own breasts. Bullbaiting and other blood sports were not just entertainment for the working classes, but for all classes. In fact, kings and queens often mandated that a contest be arranged. When French ambassadors visited the court of Queen Elizabeth in 1559, the Queen graciously entertained them with a fine dinner followed by an exhibition of dogs baiting bulls and bears.
The Bull-And-Terrier
In the early 1800, some Bulldog breeders tried something new, hoping to breed faster, fiercer fighters. They bred the most formidable baiting and fighting Bulldogs with the toughest, quickest and bravest terriers. This cross was believed to enhance the fighting ability of the Bulldog by reducing his size while maintaining his strength and increasing his speed and agility. Although some historians say the smooth-coated Black-and-Tan and the White English Terrier (now extinct) were most frequently crossed with
Bulldogs, others say the terriers were chosen only on the basis of gameness and working ability, and that a variety of terrier-like dogs were used. The result or these crosses was called the Bull-and-Terrier or the Half-and-Half. As time passed and Bull-and-Terriers were selectively bred, they became recognizable as an emerging breed.
Arrival in America
Blood sports were popular in America, too, and the first Bulldogs and Bull-and-Terriers imported to the New World were brought over for that purpose. While bearbaiting was banned in New England as early as the 1600s, public spectacles such as bullbaiting, rat-killing competitions for dogs, dogfighting and cockfighting were extremely popular in New York City during the late seventeenth and early eighteenth centuries. Nearly all of America's early fighting dogs were British or Irish imports bred for generations to do battle, and many of the Americans who imported them continued breeding them for the same purpose. Dogfighting was so accepted in America that in 1881, when a fight was held in Louisville between the famed English imports, Lloyd's Pilot, owned by "Cockney Charlie" Lloyd, and Crib, owned by Louis Kreiger, the Ohio and Mississippi Railroad advertised special excursion fares to the big battle. Upon arrival in Louisville, bettors and spectators were taken to a fine hotel where they were warmly welcomed by the president of the Louisville board of alderman, the police chief and other local officials. The referee for the fight was William Harding, sports editor of The Police Gazette, and owner-publisher Richard K. Fox served as stakeholder. Pilot and Crib each weighed in at just under 28 pounds, and thrilled the spectators by fighting gamely for an hour and twenty-five minutes before Pilot won the victory.
Americanization of the Breed
Pilot and Crib, two of the most famous dogs of their period, weighed under 28 pounds, yet the weight of a male Pit Bull today ranges from 40 to 65 pounds. What happened? Pilot and Crib were at fighting weight, but though they would normally have weighed several pounds more, it would not have been nearly enough to make up the difference. One explanation is that because Americans always seem to believe bigger is better, they selected bigger dogs for breeding and thereby created a larger animal. Although this theory is partly correct, there is more to the story. It is believed that the breed's general usefulness on the frontier was a factor in increasing its size.
The American pioneers discovered the Bull-and-Terrier's versatility, bravery and devotion, and soon the dogs traveled west, becoming indispensable members of many ranch and farm families. The dogs were well-suited to life on the frontier, and guarded homesteads and children with confidence and authority. Many of them also helped round up stock. In addition, they protected the farm animals from predators and varmits ranging from rats and snakes to coyotes and bears. Eventally, the settlers probably decided that a slightly larger dog, with the same body style and bravery, would have an even better chance of defending the stock against marauding mountain lions and ravaging wolves. Consequently, when selecting breeding partners for their dogs, they chose larger specimens.
The Dog of the Day
Every dog does not have his day, but the Pit Bull certainly did. His day was just before and during World War I, when he was so highly regarded that he represented the U.S. on a World War I poster depicting each of the Allied forces as a gallant dog native to his country. During that time, many issues of Life magazine featured political cartoons with Pit Bulls as the main characters.
Pit Bulls even graced the covers of Life on February 4, 1915, and again on March 24, 1917. The first picture, captioned " The Morning After," showed a bandaged and scarred Pit Bull; the later one, captioned "After Six," displayed a gentlemanly Pit Bull in a bow tie and top hat. both were drawn by Will Rannells.
During World War I, the breed proved deserving of its country's esteem. A Pit Bull named Stubby was the war's most outstanding Canine Soldier. He earned the rank of sergeant, was mentioned in official dispatches and earned two medals, one for warning of a gas attack and the other for holding a German spy at Chemin des Dames until American troops arrived.
Following the war, the Pit Bull's popularity continued to grow. Depending on what it was used for and where it lived, the breed was still known by many different names, such as Bulldog, American Bull Terrier, Brindle Bull Dog, Yankee Terrier, Pit Dog, and, of course, American Pit Bull Terrier.
Le coups de chaleur chez le chien
Eloignez le chien de la source de chaleur. Nettoyez la salive de la gueule pour faciliter la respiration et épongez la face avec de l'eau fraîche. Contactez le vétérinaire. LE COUP DE CHALEURLe coups de chaleur
Définition
C’est la brusque élévation de la température corporelle du chien accompagnée d’une déshydratation importante, d’une accélération significative de la fréquence respiratoire et du rythme cardiaque , dont l’issue la plus souvent observée est la mort de l’animal en ½ heure. La prédominance de la survenue se situe au printemps .
Races concernées
Tous les chiens de toutes les races peuvent être concernés. Un vétérinaire m’a dit que le rottweiler est particulièrement exposé car il ne supporte pas le vent chaud et se déshydrate vite.
Causes
L’effort au cours d’exercices importants : ring, agility……. Avec recrudescence au printemps.Est tout particulièrement concerné le chien qui manque d’entraînement, auquel on demande un effort intense dans des conditions de chaleur inhabituelles.
Souvent sous estimé par le maître, l’enfermement du chien dans une voiture, même à l’ombre et vitres entre-ouvertes, par une température extérieure élevée : très rapidement la température à l’intérieur du véhicule peut atteindre 60°C..
Normes physiologiques
La température corporelle moyenne du chien se situe entre : 38°C - 39°C. Les chiens de petite taille, les lices gravides et les chiots ont une température légèrement plus élevée. La fréquence cardiaque au repos est de l’ordre de 60 à 80 pulsations par minute La fréquence respiratoire au repos se situe entre 10 à 12 respirations par minute Le temps de recoloration capillaire est inférieur à 2 secondes ( se fait en appuyant avec 1 doigt sur la gencive naturellement rose ; quand on enlève le doigt, la zone comprimée est blanche, mais reprend sa couleur rose initiale en 1 laps de temps qui porte le nom de temps de recoloration capillaire).
Symptômes
Lorsque la température corporelle du chien atteint 41°C, le sang doit être rapidement pompé de l’intérieur du corps vers la périphérie ce qui a pour conséquence une mauvaise irrigation des organes vitaux. C’est à ce moment que commence le coup de chaleur dont voici les différentes étapes, réparties en 2 phases
1ère phase.
le chien halète bruyamment (la fréquence respiratoire peut atteindre 400 respirations par minute), le chien est abattu, puis titube, ses gencives se décolorent.
2ème phase
la température corporelle monte à 42°C, 43°C. les muqueuses prennent une coloration violacée ou bleutée. très rapidement votre chien va vomir, avoir des instants d’inconscience avec désorientation, il peut avoir des crampes,l’albumine coagule, survient 1 œdème du cerveau avec hypertension intracrânienne, le chien sombre dans l’inconscience, la mort survient rapidement.
Conduite à tenir
Dans tous les cas de figure, il est préférable de conduire le chien chez le vétérinaire qui va perfuser pour une meilleure réhydratation.
Cependant vous pouvez agir de suite pour soulager l’animal en souffrance.
Dès les premiers symptômes, mettre le chien à l’ombre ( celle de la voiture est déjà acceptable) et le ventiler. Le tenir en laisse car il peut être désorienté.
À l’aide d’un linge mouillé d’eau froide, rafraîchir la tête et les oreilles.
Avec ce linge, rafraîchir le dessous des pattes, et remonter progressivement le long des membres.
Rafraîchir ensuite le haut des cuisses et des membres antérieurs, puis le ventre.
Penser à mouiller souvent le linge d’eau très froide, car la chaleur du chien réchauffe le linge.Si le chien en a la capacité, le faire boire doucement….. ne pas mettre de l’eau de force en gueule, car il peut ne pas être en mesure d’avaler, et dans ce cas, il risque l’étouffement. On peut alors passer un linge mouillé dans la gueule , et sur la langue.
Si vous avez la possibilité d’intervenir pendant la première phase, vous avez toutes les chances de remettre votre chien d’aplomb rapidement…
Ces gestes simples peuvent sauver la vie de votre animal pendant son transport à la clinique vétérinaire …..
Si vous êtes confrontés à la 2° phase, faites les mêmes gestes, dans la voiture qui vous conduit chez le vétérinaire, avec calme et précision car vous savez maintenant qu’il ne faut pas perdre une seconde, le pronostic vital étant très, très réservé..
Ce qu’il ne faut surtout pas faire
Ne jamais baigner le chien, ou l’arroser au tuyau d’arrosage.
Car le brusque changement de température peut provoquer une hydrocution qui, elle, va lui être fatale.
A savoir également en cas de fortes chaleurs
La Ligue Française des Droits de l’Animal a effectué des relevés de températures au sol et à différentes hauteurs, au moyen d’une sonde thermométrique.
Lorsque la température ambiante atteignait 34° C à l’ombre, sur le trottoir du côté de l’ensoleillement, l’asphalte était à 45° C. la température passe à 44.1° C à 5 cm du sol, 43° C à 10 cm, 41° C à 15 cm, 38.8° C à 20 cm, 37.3° C à 30 cm et 37.1° C à 50 cm de hauteur.
Si la température ambiante est plus forte, la température du sol peut dépasser 50° C.
Promenés sans précautions, les chiens peuvent être atteints de brûlures des coussinets qui s’infecteront souvent. Les chiens de petite taille et les chiots sont en entier dans une couche d’air à température très supérieure à leur température corporelle.
PRECAUTIONS
promener les chiens à l’ombre, les faire marcher dans l’eau (propre) dès que possible, après la promenade, tremper les pattes dans l’eau fraîche ET LES SECHER porter toujours les chiots dans les bras et, autant que possible, les chiens de petite taille.
En conclusion
En présence d’un coup de chaleur, restez calme, car votre agitation va provoquer un stress inutile à votre chien, parlez doucement, rassurez le, et agissez avec précision sans comportement extrême, appelez votre vétérinaire , ou tout simplement allez à son cabinet sans perdre de temps, en commençant les premiers gestes décrits plus haut.
Et tout d’abord, pensez à la prévention de ce coup de chaleur : ne laissez jamais votre chien seul dans un véhicule, même pour quelques minutes, même dans un véhicule à l’ombre, même si vous croyez qu’il ne fait pas si chaud que cela…..
Quand vous voyagez avec votre animal, pensez à le rafraîchir très régulièrement.
Bonnes vacances !!
L'huile d'olive : propriétés et vertues
L'huile d'olive : propriétés et vertues
LES PROPRIÉTÉS DE L’HUILE D’OLIVE
Ces dernières années, les scientifiques se sont penchés sur les vertus de la diète méditerranéenne et en particulier sur l’huile d’olive. Des examens plus approfondis ont révélé que ce liquide ancestral est plus qu’une simple source de graisse monoinsaturée. Il constitue également une source abondante d’antioxydants.
Les antioxydants aident à prévenir les dommages causés aux tissus corporels par certaines molécules appelées "radicaux libres". Le corps produit ces radicaux libres parce qu’il a besoin d’oxygène et leur quantité augmente au fur et à mesure que nous vieillissons. Les radicaux libres ont été mis en cause dans les maladies cardiaques, le cancer et le vieillissement.
Bien que le corps produise ses propres antioxydants, les aliments dont nous nous nourrissons en fournissent également. L’huile tirée de ce fruit qu’est l’olive contient une large gamme d’antioxydants précieux qui ne se retrouvent pas dans les autres huiles.
UNE MEILLEURE SANTÉ
Le rôle des antioxydants sur l’état des artères est fondamental. Les lipoprotéines de faible densité (LDL) ou mauvais cholestérol ne sont réellement nocives que lorsqu’elles s’oxydent. Dans ce cas, des particules se forment pour créer une plaque qui s’épaissit et menace dangereusement de bloquer les artères. L’huile d’olive, en tant qu’antioxydant naturel, aide à empêcher cette oxydation.
D’importants antioxydants sont également apportés par les végétaux mais les nutritionnistes doivent d’abord obtenir que les gens en consomment. Pour cela, ils doivent être savoureux. La cuisine méditerranéenne rend les légumes attirants en les assaisonnant avec de l’huile d’olive, du jus de citron, de l’ail et des herbes aromatiques et ceci explique pourquoi, dans les pays méditerranéens, les gens prennent plaisir à consommer de grandes quantités de végétaux tous les jours.
Des travaux successifs ont révélé que les graisses monoinsaturées sont meilleures que les polyinsaturées car elles réduisent les lipoprotéines de faible densité (LDL ou mauvais cholestérol), sans nuire aux lipoprotéines de haute densité (HDL ou bon cholestérol) qui sont protectrices. Outre l’effet bénéfique de l’huile d’olive dans la réduction des LDL, l’acide oléique est également réputé pour réduire la formation de caillots de sang dans les artères.
Les vertus de l’huile d’olive vont au-delà de la protection contre les maladies cardiovasculaires. Certains antioxydants appelés "polyphénols", présents dans l’huile d’olive, sont aptes à détruire des substances qui gouvernent la prolifération de cellules cancérigènes. Naturellement, la recherche doit se poursuivre pour expliquer ce phénomène de protection mais les faits sont là : dans les pays méditerranéens, les femmes souffrent moins de cancer du sein que dans des pays comme les Etats-Unis ou l’Australie, où leur taux est très élevé.
L’huile d’olive joue aussi un grand rôle dans le diabète. La science a démontré que les personnes qui utilisent de l’huile d’olive contrôlent mieux leur diabète et présentent des taux réduits de certaines graisses dans le sang, si nous comparons leur diète avec celle riche en hydrates de carbone qui est normalement recommandée pour ce type de diabète.
L’huile d’olive exerce un effet protecteur incontesté sur le métabolisme, les artères, l’estomac et la bile. Elle encourage la croissance pendant l’enfance et allonge l’espérance de vie des personnes âgées. Son impact est unique sur les lipides du sérum sanguin. En outre, l’huile d’olive semble avoir un effet cholagogue (expulsion de la bile) et un effet thérapeutique sur les ulcères peptiques.
https://www.passeportsante.net/fr/Actualites/Nouvelles/Fiche.aspx?doc=2006091221
Apple Cider Vinegar
Apple Cider Vinegar
Is good for the following;
Fighting infections
Arthritis/hip displasia
Metabolism/weight
Purifying cells
Constipation/scouring
Muscle cramp
Kidney failure/urinary tract infections/bladder stones
Coat condition/skin problems/itching/ringworm
Fertility/birthing/vitality of offspring
Mastitis/cell counts
Immune system
Insect/parasites problems, changes blood chemistry
Helps eliminate the need for antibiotics
A great tonic to use while animals are ill or convalescing
Blood pressure/cardiovascular
Digestion
Chronic fatigue
Relieve insect stings and bites
Stiffness
Stamina/endurance
Add to wet or dry food:
Small dogs/puppies - 10ml per day
Medium dogs - 15ml per day
Large dogs - 20ml per day
Working/Hunting dogs - 15ml twice a day when in use
To improve fertility - 15ml once a day
External parasites - Wash the dog with a mild shampoo, rinse, spray on ACV diluted with an equal amount of warm water
ACV may be given more while your dog is ill or convalescing as a 'pick me up'.
Un médecin américain, le Dr Jarvis, a popularisé l'utilisation du vinaigre de cidre comme remède. N'hésitez pas à redécouvrir et à utiliser ce vieux remède connu de nos ancêtres.
Le vinaigre peut être consommé quotidiennement à titre préventif pour tenter de garder la santé sous forme d'une boisson très rafraîchissante préparée en mélangeant deux cuillères à soupe de vinaigre de cidre (de préférence artisanal pur et non pasteurisé) pour un grand verre d'eau (avec éventuellement une ou deux cuillères à soupe de miel).
Par ses richesses en oligo-éléments (calcium, soufre, fer, silicium, bore, phosphore, magnésium, potassium, fluor…), et pectine, en vitamines, une demi-douzaine de vitamines : notamment B et D et acides essentiels, en enzymes et en acides aminés essentiels, le vinaigre de cidre mérite l'appellation "d'élixir de jeunesse". Des scientifiques de plus en plus nombreux sont convaincus que le vinaigre de cidre peut contribuer à aider et accélérer le processus de guérison. Le vinaigre favorise aussi l'absorption du calcium. Il contient aussi du bêta-carotène riche en vitamine A anti-oxydante.
Le vinaigre de cidre pur favorise le nettoyage de l'organisme et l'élimination des toxines grâce à son acidité, il détruit les mauvaises bactéries, absorbe le trop plein d'acides de l'estomac, régénère la flore intestinale, lutte contre la constipation, combat les flatulences et aide à résorber les intoxications alimentaires. Il est aussi stimulant de l'appétit et facilite la digestion. Il nettoie le canal urinaire et réduit les risques d'infection des reins. L'idéal est de le boire : ½ heure avant le repas pour faciliter la digestion, pendant le repas pour éliminer les brûlures d'estomac ou au coucher pour dissiper la constipation.
Il aide à stabiliser la tension artérielle et à équilibrer le pH du sang.
En détruisant les graisses, il aide à la perte de poids.
Il soulage les crampes musculaires. Il s'utilise en gargarisme (2 c. à c. de vinaigre de cidre dans 1/3 de tasse d'eau tiédie) et contre les inflammations buccales et les maux de gorge.
En inhalation (2 à 3 c. à s. de vinaigre de cidre dans un bol d'eau bouillante), il combat les migraines et les maux de tête.
Il est également utilisé contre les chaleurs de la ménopause, les varices, le zona…
Pris au coucher, le vinaigre agit comme un calmant léger contre la nervosité.
Le vinaigre doit cependant être consommé sans exagération pour ne pas provoquer de brûlures d'estomac et fatiguer le foie. Une consommation excessive de vinaigre à jeun peut entraîner des problèmes d'estomac. Ce liquide aide à soulager de petits maux de la vie quotidienne et est utilisé pour ses propriétés thérapeutiques (parfois additionné de substances parfumées ou médicamenteuses) comme désinfectant (c'est un antibiotique naturel), il permet de soigner des plaies et brûlures légères. Il est aussi antiseptique et antifongique. Le vinaigre est sert aussi en utilisations externes contre l'eczéma, l'urticaire, pour soigner les coups de soleil, etc… Un linge imbibé de vinaigre de cidre permet de frictionner les régions douloureuses et de réduire les douleurs musculaires (additionné ou non d'eau chaude et de sel).
Prendre un bain d'eau additionné d'une verre de vinaigre, pendant 15 à 20 minutes, favorise le sommeil et la détente.
Les mères de vinaigre trouvent une utilité comme emplâtres sur les foulures, les entorses ou les brûlures.
Le vinaigre sert aussi à soigner les animaux.
https://www.crossgatesfarm.co.uk/
’effet antibactérien du vinaigre pour le soin des oreilles
La grande acidité du vinaigre en fait un très bon antibactérien. L’effet antibactérien n’a toutefois pas la même efficacité pour tous les types de bactéries. Une équipe de chercheurs12 a vérifié par culture cellulaire l’efficacité de l’acide acétique sur la croissance de diverses bactéries causant les maux d’oreilles les plus fréquents (Pseudomonas, Staphylococcus, Proteus).
(à titre informatif .... )
Aliments toxiques chez le chien
Aliments toxiques chez le chien
La socialisation du chien
La socialisation du chien
La socialisation du chien
La socialisation de votre chien passe aussi bien par son bon comportement avec les membres de la famille que par sa civilité par rapport aux autres chiens.
Le caresses et l'affection très tôt
Votre chien vous sera d'autant plus agréable que vous saurez le caresser.
En lui passant la main sur le crâne, le cou et le garrot, vous affirmerez votre dominance. Un jeune chien peut, s'il veut affirmer son autorité, gronder quand un enfant de la famille le caresse. Il doit alors être immédiatement réprimandé, par exemple en le secouant par la peau du cou. Ainsi le chien est remis à sa place dans la hiérarchie du groupe.
Les caresses affectueuses se situent également dans les mêmes régions : la gorge, le ventre, les flancs et les cuisses. Vous verrez comme il apprécie ces massages tendres. Pour un chien à poils longs, ces caresses peuvent se muer en brossages ; pour les chiens à poil court, prenez un gant de crin.
Donner confiance aux chiots pour qu'ils se sentent en sécurité
Les chiots détestent sentir le vide au-dessous d'eux. Pour éviter de leur faire mal, montrez à vos enfants comment le saisir: en passant un bras entre les deux pattes avant, l’autre bras maintient le corps contre soi. De cette manière, ils se sentent en sécurité.
Il ne faut pas tirer un chien pas ses pattes. On peut par contre prendre un chiot ou un chien de taille moyenne par la peau du cou sans lui causer un aucun mal: c’est d’ailleurs de cette manière que les chiennes transportent leurs petits.
Rapports de domination entre deux chiens
Entre deux chiens, le dominant pose sa tête ou sa patte au niveau du garrot du dominé pour s’imposer. S’il s’agit d’un jeu, même très vif, vous pourrez observer qu'ils évitent soigneusement tout ce qui pourrait ressembler à cette attitude dominatrice, et ne touchent que les parties inférieures du corps.
C'est en suivant des cours de dressage avec votre compagnon que vous apprendrez les gestes justes à adopter avec votre chien.
Assurer a toutou sa place dans votre pièce de vie
Et si socialiser, c'était aussi prévoir, pour votre compagnon, un bon gros plaid écossais bien confortable dans votre salon? Toute simple, cette couverture typique assure à votre chien sa place propre dans votre pièce de vie, un endroit bien à lui pour les petits sommes de la journée, juste à côté de ses maîtres. Agréablement chauds pour les froides journées d’hiver, certains modèles peuvent procurer à votre animal les bienfaits de la magnétothérapie, grâce à un coussin muni d’aimants qui apportent vitalité, forme et détente. Les animaux vieillissants en particulier bénéficient ainsi d’une bien meilleure qualité de vie.
Les différentes étapes de la socialisation des chiens
Il faut attendre douze semaines pour observer la première marque de socialisation du petit. Le site insiste sur le fait qu'il ne faut pas hésiter à sortir votre chiot dès ses trois mois, pour qu'il soit mis en contact avec un maximum de personnes mais aussi avec ses congénères. Il peut alors être éduqué à ne pas être effrayé par la circulation automobile ou par les passants, ni même par un chien inconnu qu'il pourrait être amené à croiser.
La socialisation est une étape décisive et nécessaire.
Dès que votre chiot aura reçu sa deuxième injection de rappel (normalement à trois mois), n'hésitez pas à le sortir le plus souvent possible dans la foule. Il faut qu'il soit mis en contact, dès son plus jeune âge, avec un maximum de personnes mais aussi avec ses congénères. Vous pourrez ainsi l'éduquer pour qu'il ne soit pas effrayé par la circulation et pour qu'il ne risque pas d'agresser un passant ou un autre chien lorsqu'il sera plus grand.
ETAPES MOYENNES D'EVOLUTION
à nuancer selon la race du chiot
0 à 8 semaines :
Dépendance de la mère.
6 à 18 semaines :
Sevrage, stress de la séparation maternelle.
Indépendance graduelle.
8 à 12 semaines :
1ère socialisation.
Elle se traduit par l'imprégnation affective par la mère ou l'être humain adoptif.
Établissement de la hiérarchie par rapport à la meute ou à la famille.
Début des aboiements.
Attitude de méfiance envers les étrangers vers la huitième semaine.
12 à 24 semaines :
2ème socialisation.
On constate l'établissement des relations affectives à l'extérieur du milieu. Les sorties et les jeux aideront le chiot à s'équilibrer par rapport à ces nouvelles frontières.
Crainte des étrangers.
Attachement puissant à son milieu.
Manifestation de l'instinct de défense du territoire.
24 à 52 semaines :
Premières chaleurs ou premières manifestations d'intérêt pour les femelles.
Défense volontaire du territoire et respect des autres.
54 à 76 semaines :
Maturité physique et psychique (évolution selon les races)
Recherche d'un statut social.
Huile de saumon
Huile de saumon
L'huile de saumon contient de nombreux omégas 3 essentiels pour divers fonctions de l'organisme des chiens . Ces acides gras sont essentiels pour une croissance saine et un bon fonctionnement des tissus et des organes suivants :
membranes cellulaires
cerveau
peau et pelage
reins
vaisseaux sanguins
système immunitaire
précurseur pour les hormones
yeux (rétine)
L'alimentation habituelle des animaux peinent bien souvent à leur apporter une quantité suffisante d'omégas 3. Certaines situations psychologiques et pathologiques augmentent les besoins des animaux en omégas 3. C'est pourquoi l'huile de saumon est particulièrement utile dans les cas suivants :
infections
guérisons
stress postopératoire
maladies de peau (eczéma, pellicules, pelage clairsemé)
allergies
maladies du système immunitaire et stress
affections cardiaques
problèmes liés à l'âge
L'huile de saumon contient des acides arachidoniques, que ne contiennent pas les huiles végétales, et qui sont essentiels puisqu'ils sont reconnu pour leur action bénéfique sur le pelage et la peau.
L'huile de saumon doit être pure, elle améliore la santé, donne un pelage soyeux et brillant et renforce leurs pattes lorsqu'elle est quotidiennement ajoutée à leur nourriture.
Dosage recommandé (pour les chiens) :
Poids Dose journalière
moins de 5 kg 2,5 ml
5 - 15 kg 5,0 ml
15 - 30 kg 10,0 ml
plus de 30 kg 15,0 ml
Commencez par donner 1/3 de la dose à votre animal puis augmentez progressivement la dose sur 7 à 14 jours pour atteindre la dose recommandée. L'huile de saumon doit être ajoutée à la nourriture de l'animal une fois par jour. Il est important de respecter la dose recommandée car un surdosage n'a pas d'effets positifs.
Analyse :
Omégas 3 = 26,7 %, acides éicosapentaènoïques = 6,3 % (de la valeur totale), acides docosahexaènoïques = 10,2 % (de la valeur totale), omégas 6 = 9,5 %, acides arachidoniques = 0,6 % (de la valeur totale)
Recettes de Biscuits pour chiens ^^ !
Recettes de Biscuits pour chiens ^^ !
Biscuits à chiens
Ingrédients:
2 tasses de farine tout usage
1 tasse de semoule de maïs
1/4 tasse de germe de blé
2. c. thé de boeuf en poudre
1/2 c. thé de poudre d'ail
1 gros oeuf
1 c. table d'huile de cuisson
1 tasse d'eau chaude
Préparation:
Chauffer le four à 275F. Combiner les 5 premiers ingrédients dans le bol. Remuer. Ajouter l'oeuf, l'huile de cuisson et l'eau. Bien remuer. Déposer la pâte avec une cuillère faisant des biscuits qui mesurent 1 demi pouce d'épaisseur. Disposer les morceaux de pâte sur la tôle à biscuits non graissée.
Cuire sur la grille du milieu du four pendant environ 2 heures, jusqu'à ce que les biscuits soient secs et très durs. Retirer la tôle du four et la poser sur la grille. Laisser refroidir. Laisser reposer jusqu'au lendemain pour que les biscuits sèchent complètement. Ranger dans un contenant muni d'un couvercle. Donne 20 biscuits.
BISCUITS À CHIENS
1 tasse de farine blanche
1 tasse de farine de blé
1/2 tasse de germe de blé
1/2 tasse de poudre de lait (lait déshydraté... Carnation)
1/2 c. à thé de sel
10 c. à table de graisse végétale froide (OU 6 c. à table + 1 oeuf supplémentaire)
1 oeuf battu avec 1 c. à table de cassonade
1/3 tasse de légumes déshydratés
On fait comme pour une pâte à tarte. On peut pétrir au robot en utilisant le crochet sans problème. On met au réfrigérateur 1 heure avant d'envoyer au four à 325°F - centre du four - 20 à 25 minutes selon l'épaisseur.
BISCUITS À CHIENS
Ingrédients:
2 tasses de farine tout usage
1 tasse de semoule de maïs
1/4 tasse de germe de blé
2c.à thé de boeuf en poudre
1/2 c. à thé de poudre d'ail
1 gros oeuf
Chauffer le four à 275F.
Combiner les 5 premiers ingrédients dans le bol.
1c. à table d'huile de cuisson
1 tasse d'eau chaude
Préparation:
Chauffer le four à 275F.Combiner les 5 premiers ingrédients dans le bol.
Remuer, Ajouter l'oeuf, l'huile de cuisson et l'eau. Bien remuer.
Déposer la pâte avec une cuillère faisant des biscuits qui mesurent 1/2 pouce d'épaisseur. Disposer les morceaux de pâte sur la tôle à biscuits non graissée. Cuire sur la grille du milieu du four pendant environ 2 heures, jusqu'à ce que les biscuits soient secs et très durs. Retirer la tôle du four et la poser sur la grille. Laisser refroidir. Laisser reposer jusqu'au lendemain pour que les biscuits sèchent complètement. Ranger dans un contenant muni d'un couvercle. Donne 20 biscuits.
Biscuits pour chiens
· 4 tasses de farine de blé entier
· 1 c. à table de poudre à pâte
· 2 oeufs
· 5 c. à table de bouillon de poulet
· 10 onces d'eau
· 1 tasse de fromage
Placez tous les ingrédients dans un bol et mélangez jusqu'à ce que vous obteniez une boule. Roulez la pâte sur une surface farinée jusqu'à 1/3 de pouce d'épaisseur. Découpez les formes voulues, déposez-les sur une plaque et cuire au four 40 minutes à 350º.
Biscuits à saveur de viande
· 2 pots de bébé à la viande
· 5 onces de germe de blé
· 4 onces de lait en poudre
Brasser les ingrédients ensembles jusqu'à l'obtention d'une boule. Aplanir la pâte jusqu'à 1/2 pouce d'épaisseur pour les petits biscuits et 1 pouce pour les grands. Découper les formes voulues. Mettre sur une plaque à biscuits.
Chauffer le four à 350º. Retirer quand le tout est doré.
Gâteries au foie
· 1 livre de foie de boeuf
· 4 oeufs
· 1 tasse de farine d'avoine
· Sel d'ail
Mélanger tous les ingrédients jusqu'à l'obtention d'une pâte. Couper les formes voulues. Mettre sur une plaque à biscuits. Chauffer le four à 350º pendant 30 minutes environ
Biscuits au beurre d'arachides
2 tasses de farine de blé entier
1 tasse de germe de blé ou de gruau
1 tasse de beurre d'arachides
1 oeuf
1/4 tasse d'huile végétale
1 tasse d'eau
Préchauffer le four à 350'. Mélanger la farine et le gruau dans un grand bol.
Mélanger le beurre d'arachides, l'oeuf, l'huile et l'eau. Abaisser à 1/2 pouce d'épaisseur. Tailler à l'emporte pièce ou en petits carrés. Mettre sur une tôle non graissée. Cuire 15 à 30 minutes. Fermer le four et laisser sécher les biscuits 1/2 à 1 heure pour qu'ils soient
croustillants.
Biscuits natures
2 tasses de farine de blé entier
1/2 tasse de gruau
6 c. à table de margarine
1 oeuf
1/2 tasse de lait en poudre
1/2 tasse d'eau froide
Préchauffer le four à 350'. Mélanger tous les ingrédients et pétrir la pâte jusqu'à ce qu'elle forme une boule.
Abaisser la pâte à 1/2 pouce d'épaisseur et découper en morceaux. Cuire sur une tôle à biscuits non graissée 30 minutes.
Fermer le four et laisser sécher les biscuits 1/2 à 1 heure pour qu'ils soient croustillants.
Biscuits au thon
2 boites de 6 onces de thon dans l'huile
2 tasses de "cornmeal"
2 tasses de farine
1 1/2 tasse d'eau
2/3 tasse d'huile végétale
Préchauffer le four à 350'. Enlever l'huile du thon. Mélanger les ingrédients.
Abaisser la pâte à 1/2 pouce d'épaisseur et découper en morceaux. Cuire sur une tôle à biscuits non graissée 30 minutes. Fermer le four et laisser sécher les biscuits 1/2 à 1 heure pour qu'ils soient croustillants.
Biscuits "vite faits"
Prendre la moulée habituelle de votre chien. Laisser tremper dans l'eau jusqu'à la formation d'une pâte. Ajouter de la poudre d'ail. Former des galettes et faire cuire au four à 350' jusqu'à la consistance d'un biscuit sec.
Il faut conserver ces biscuits (les quatre recettes) au réfrigérateur, se conservent environ deux semaines. Se congèlent très bien.
Foie séché
Faire bouillir des tranches de foie de boeuf pendant 20 minutes. Mettre par la suite le foie au four à 300' pendant environ 30 minutes. Fermer le four et laisser sécher environ 45 minutes jusqu'à ce que le foie prenne une texture de liège. Couper en petits morceaux lorsque froid. Un délice! Recommandé pour le dressage.
Variante au foie séché: Ajouter de la poudre d'ail à l'eau lors de l'ébullition
Un grand Merci À Chantal Gagnon pour toutes ces recettes! ^^ 
La croissance du chiot
La croissance du chiot
La croissance du chiot
Votre chiot subit d'énormes changements entre le jour de sa naissance et le moment où il devient adulte, vers l'âge d'un ou deux ans, selon sa taille. Voici quelques-unes de ses évolutions physiques majeures.
Santé du système digestif
Son système digestif double de poids au cours des 24 heures qui suivent sa naissance. Vers l'âge de 3 semaines, le niveau d'enzymes de son système digestif a plus que doublé depuis sa naissance. En grandissant et en avançant vers l'âge adulte, ses capacités digestives se développent. Sa taille adulte détermine sa maturité digestive, moment où il possédera toutes les enzymes nécessaires à une digestion normale des aliments.
Santé du système immunitaire
L'immunité des chiots est faible de l’âge de 3 semaines à l'âge de 5 mois. Pendant cette période, les chiots sont confrontés à un ''trou immunitaire'', en attendant que leur propre système immunitaire se développe. Les chiots ont donc besoin d'une alimentation hautement digestible, qui favorise le bon fonctionnement de leur système digestif, élément majeur de leur équilibre immunitaire. Ils ont également besoin de vitamines A et E et de minéraux (sélénium et zinc), afin de renforcer l'efficacité de leur système immunitaire.
Santé de la peau et du pelage
Le pelage de votre chiot est composé de 95% de protéines. 30% de ses apports journaliers en protéines sont utilisés pour la croissance de son pelage et de sa peau. Si son pelage est terne ou sa peau irritée, cela signifie peut-être que ses besoins nutritionnels ne sont pas satisfaits. Ces symptômes peuvent apparaître plus rapidement chez les jeunes chiots car leur cycle de repousse du poil est plus court que celui de l'adulte. L'acide linoléique (acide gras oméga-3 important), les vitamines A et E, et les protéines de qualité favorisent la santé de la peau ainsi que l'épaisseur et la brillance du pelage, qui sont des signes extérieurs de bonne santé.
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Lui apprendre à mordiller
Le fait qu'un chien soit capable de contrôler sa mâchoire s'appelle la "morsure inhibée". C'est un des nombreux "autocontrôles" qu'un chiot doit apprendre au cours de sa croissance pour être un adulte équilibré. Cette morsure contrôlée est généralement le résultat d'un apprentissage très précoce, effectué par la mère et les frères et sœurs. Si le chiot est séparé trop tôt de sa fratrie, cet apprentissage n'a pas l'occasion de se faire. C'est alors à vous d'apprendre au chiot qu'il ne doit pas mordiller. Un simple "NON !" suffit souvent à le faire stopper. Si ce n'est pas le cas, vous pouvez essayer d'arrêter le jeu immédiatement. Le chiot comprendra rapidement que lorsqu'il adopte cette attitude, il n'y a plus d'interactions avec son maître. Vous pouvez aussi lever les bras et mettre vos mains hors de la portée de la mâchoire de l'animal, lui tourner le dos, en ayant pris la précaution d'exprimer votre mécontentement d'un "NON" ferme et sans équivoque. Là encore, il s'agit de faire comprendre au chien, sans violence, qu'il n'a aucun intérêt à mordre trop fort.
Les pellicules chez le chien
Les pellicules chez le chien
Les pellicules chez le chien
par Jacinthe Godin, Tech. en santé animale, Toiletteur canin
Les pellicules sont un problème fréquent chez le chien au pelage sec. Ces petites particules épidermiques blanches qui se détachent de la robe particulièrement le long de la colonne vertébrale ressemblent beaucoup aux pellicules humaines. On les remarque surtout chez les animaux à robes foncées.
Les pellicules sont-elles une maladie de la peau ?
Il s'agit d'une maladie de la peau qu'il faut soigner avant que cela devienne un problème. Il y a sur le marché des shampoings vendus chez le vétérinaire ou en animalerie pour aider à s'en débarrasser. Mais parfois, il faut faire plus que laver le chien avec un shampoing médicamenté, un traitement vétérinaire s'impose.
Quelles sont les causes des pellicules ?
Après le bain, un mauvais rinçage
Un désordre cutané
Une peau très sèche causée par une nourriture faible en nutriments et vitamines
Un désordre des glandes sébacées
En hiver, l'air ambiant de la maison chaud et sec
Un manque d'acides gras essentiels dans leur alimentation quotidienne
Un stress causé par un déménagement, une visite chez le vétérinaire ou chez le toiletteur
Comment éviter ce problème ?
Lors du bain, il faut utiliser un bon shampoing à base de protéine ou à la lanoline, ensuite utiliser un revitalisant au rinçage. Après le bain, on peut utiliser aussi un revitalisant à base de lanoline ou d'huile de vison en aérosol ou en pompe pour donner un lustre au pelage. Une nourriture équilibrée avec un supplément à base de vitamines et d'acides gras essentiels aide à éviter ce problème et ainsi à l'éliminer.
Quels genres d'acides gras essentiels peut-on donner à son chien ?
Il y a sur le marché des suppléments à base d'huile de germe de blé avec les acides gras essentiels et les vitamines A, D et E. Pour traiter le chien, il faut lui en donner pour un certain temps, environ une à deux semaines, à tous les jours. Dépendant le poids de votre animal, une à deux cuillerées à thé pour les petits chiens ou une à deux c. à table pour les plus gros, ou selon la direction, nombre de jets de pompe. Pour aider à prévenir, on donne régulièrement, trois à quatre fois par semaine, de l'huile de germe de blé dans sa nourriture. L'huile de tournesol ou de maïs utilisée pour la cuisson peut aider aussi pour la prévention de la peau sèche.
Les fleurs de Bach et nos chiens, why not ^^ !
Les animaux ont aussi des sentiments
Remèdes utiles pour les animaux
Si votre animal...
...est plus timide ou peureux que d'habitude, ne supporte pas les bruits trop forts...
=> Mimulus - Mimule Bio (n°20)
...a vécu des choses désagréables, est perturbé, peut-être à cause de son proporiétaire précédent
=> Etoile de Bethléem - Star of Bethléem Bio (n°29)
... est plein d'énergie, vite excité et hypersensible
=> Verveine- Vervain Bio (n°31)
... s'adapte difficilement aux changements, par exemple à un déménagement, une grossesse, la présence de nouveaux animaux
=>Noyer - Walnut Bio (n°33)
... manque de confiance en soi et évite les défis comme les concours ou la fréquentation d'autres animaux
=> Mélèze - Larch Bio (n°19)
... ne réagit pas à vos programmes d'éducation, continue à présebter un comportement indésirable
=> Bourg. de Marronier- Chestnut Bud Bio (n°7)
Complexe de Secours -rescue apporte une aide en cas de maladie, après une opération ou avant une visite chez le vétérinaire
Dosage:
Mélanger les remèdes à l'eau ou à la nourriture de l'animal, à raison de 2 gouttes de chaque remède (4 gouttes de rescue ou 2 spray) par repas.
Pour les animaux plus grands (chevaux): 5 gouttes
Autre méthode, faire tomber les gouttes sur les pattes, les griffes ou les oreilles pour qu'elles soient directement absorbées par la peau.
Il faut toujours consulter le vétérinaire lorsque l'animal tombe malade ou si son comportement se modifie soudainement.
Fleurs de Bach - Elixirs floraux
Que sont les Fleurs de Bach ?
Ce sont des élixirs naturels, élaborés à partir de fleurs sauvages et d’eau de source. Chaque préparation vise à reproduire le phénomène naturel de la rosée matinale. L’eau, sous l’action du soleil, s’imprègne de l’énergie de la fleur. Au nombre de 38, les Fleurs du Dr Bach s’adressent aux émotions, aux humeurs, aux sentiments, voire à des personnalités différentes. Elles agissent de façon vibratoire pour aboutir au rétablissement d’un équilibre propre à chacun.
Les élixirs se présentent sous forme liquide, à prendre purs ou en dilution, séparément ou associés les uns aux autres (maximum 6 ou 7 par mélange). Uniquement pour raison de conservation, de l’alcool est ajouté à la préparation de base.
Animaux : les fleurs de Bach pour l’animal de compagnie
Le chien, le chat, le cheval et les fleurs de Bach
lundi 24 octobre 2005. par Jacques David
Première parution : magazine "Biocontact" [1], octobre 2004.
La musique des fleurs
Les fleurs de Bach fonctionnent de façon tout à fait similaire à un enregistrement musical. En guise de "CD" : du cognac pur. Biologique, évidemment : qui aurait l’idée de graver de la musique sur un disque gondolé ? En guise de musique : la vibration propre à chaque fleur, fixée dans le liquide grâce à l’action, non pas du laser, mais des puissants rayons du soleil. Les fleurs, posées sur le liquide, sont traversées pendant plusieurs heures par l’énergie solaire qui imprime leurs caractéristiques vibratoires dans l’eau, la partie "alcool" du cognac jouant ensuite le rôle de conservateur naturel. Le produit obtenu ne contient aucune substance matérielle mesurable ou analysable, contrairement à la phytothérapie ou médecine par les plantes, qui s’appuie au contraire sur des substances matérielles. De même, la musique gravée sur un disque ne peut être ni pesée, ni analysée chimiquement. Certaines fleurs de Bach, au lieu d’utiliser la solarisation vue ci-dessus, se préparent selon la méthode d’ébullition, mais toujours en visant la dimension « informative » ou « vibratoire » de la fleur.
A quelques manipulations et détails techniques près, il ne reste plus ensuite qu’à absorber le produit ainsi obtenu, de façon à nous imprégner de la qualité qui nous manque à un moment de notre vie, ou depuis toujours : courage, calme, patience... la liste des possibilités est longue.
Cette méthode aussi originale qu’efficace fut mise au point par le Dr Edward Bach, né en 1886 au Royaume-Uni, mort en 1936. D’abord bactériologiste de renom, puis homéopathe reconnu, le Dr Bach s’orienta progressivement vers la recherche d’une méthode entièrement basée sur l’harmonie. Il la trouva dans la fleur : chaque variété florale manifeste des qualités précises, une "gestuelle", une façon d’être qui lui est propre. Par ailleurs, le fait même qu’une fleur existe, qu’elle ait achevé sa croissance et sa perfection, est la preuve même de l’équilibre de la plante, de sa "réussite", pourrait-on dire, qu’elle concentre et concrétise de façon frappante.
38 portraits psychologiques Doté d’un flair hors pair, le Dr Bach détermina en quelques années les "portraits" correspondant à 38 variétés florales. Déterminer les propriétés d’un élixir floral, c’est en effet déterminer un portrait en déséquilibre (le "défaut" dont on veut se débarrasser) et un portrait en équilibre (la qualité apportée par la prise de l’élixir) qui est l’inverse du premier. On appelle « fleurs de Bach » les remèdes floraux tirés de ces 38 variétés précises, et plus généralement « élixirs floraux » les remèdes ainsi préparés. En somme, les 38 « fleurs de Bach » font partie des élixirs floraux.
Une méthode simple... Les fleurs de Bach sont simples à prendre. Chez l’être humain : quelques gouttes sous la langue quatre fois par jour, à distance des repas, pendant un ou deux mois. Plusieurs élixirs peuvent être pris en même temps, séparément ou mélangés dans un flacon, en ne dépassant pas cinq élixirs. On peut également mettre quatre gouttes de chaque élixir choisi dans un verre d’eau de bonne qualité, et consommer par petites gorgées au cours de la journée.
L’animal réagissant beaucoup plus vite et facilement que l’être humain, on peut heureusement avoir recours à des modes d’absorption plus pratiques ! Au choix :
quelques gouttes dans la nourriture
quelques gouttes dans la boisson
quelques gouttes sur ou à l’arrière de la tête
Le choix de la méthode d’absorption sera également fonction de la race. Certains animaux sont hypersensibles à l’odeur et au goût de l’alcool. C’est fréquent chez le chat, peu amateur de cognacs, même biologiques ! On aura alors recours à la troisième solution. On peut aussi déposer l’élixir sur d’autres zones du pelage : avec un peu de chance, l’animal fera sa toilette juste après, combinant ainsi deux modes d’absorption. Toutefois on privilégiera si possible la solution "boisson". La quantité d’élixir ajoutée à l’eau de boisson sera fonction du poids de l’animal. Pour un animal de petite taille, une ou deux gouttes dans une tasse ou un petit bol suffiront. A l’inverse, le cheval ayant une consommation d’eau de plusieurs dizaines de litres par jour, il faudra incorporer une dose suffisante de chaque élixir : 5 à 10 gouttes par litre, voire plus en cas de mauvaise qualité de l’eau ou du stockage. Il faut en effet veiller à ce que la qualité vibratoire soit conservée. Il n’est pas nécessaire que toute l’eau de la journée soit imprégnée, on peut donc, lorsque cela est concrètement réalisable, intercaler une à plusieurs fois dans la journée un seau d’eau "floralisée".
... Et totalement sûre Si la vibration choisie n’est pas la bonne, aucune résonance ne peut se produire, d’où une totale absence de nocivité. Soit on fait le bon choix et les choses s’améliorent, soit on fait le mauvais choix et il ne se passe rien. Aucun surdosage n’est possible, pour les mêmes raisons : prendre un flacon entier en une fois ne peut produire aucune intoxication, sauf intolérance grave et rarissime à l’alcool qui sert de conservateur. C’est la fréquence des prises qui produit le résultat, et non la dose ingérée en une fois, pourvu bien sûr que l’information soit préservée. Si l’on prend un remède floral "trop souvent", certaines prises seront tout simplement inutiles : l’organisme métabolise l’information à son propre rythme.
Veiller à la qualité Si les élixirs floraux ne peuvent nuire, ils peuvent par contre être inactifs. Par exemple, il y a une contradiction flagrante dans le fait de trouver des élixirs floraux préparés sur cognac non biologique. Par définition, le "non-biologique" contient des informations parasites qui polluent l’ "Information" recherchée, celle qui va réharmoniser.
L’animal et les fleurs de Bach L’animal réagit en général plus vite que l’être humain aux élixirs floraux. Comme il ne peut formuler son malaise en mots, il faut observer son comportement pour déterminer le bon élixir, ce qui peut être extrêmement facile dans certains cas, et un peu moins facile parfois, mais nous allons voir quelques cas classiques et compréhensibles par tous. Dans bien des cas, c’est le changement de comportement qui nous permettra de déterminer l’essence du malaise vécu par l’animal.
Ce tour d’horizon des remèdes fréquemment utiles chez l’animal se fera selon trois angles de vue successifs : le caractère de base de chaque espèce, les situations auxquelles les animaux peuvent être confrontés, et enfin nous tâcherons de nous souvenir que parfois c’est... le maître qui doit se soigner.
Des portraits de base
Toute fleur de Bach peut être indiquée pour l’animal, aussi bien que pour l’humain. Mais le chien, le chat, le cheval, présentent des "caractères de base" propres à leur espèce, et bénéficieront donc de remèdes de fond précis. Cette loi n’a toutefois pas de caractère absolu : à l’intérieur d’une espèce les races peuvent avoir des caractères très différents, et au sein d’une race les individus peuvent se différencier plus ou moins de leurs congénères. De même, il n’y a pas de barrières infranchissables entre les espèces : si l’on a un chat, on pourra malgré tout lire avec profit les élixirs décrits ci-dessous pour le chien, etc.
La juste mesure Les fleurs de Bach ne donneront pas à un chat le caractère d’un chien ! Elles ne transformeront pas non plus un Bichon en Rottweiler, ou un Siamois en Chartreux... et ne rendront pas l’éducation de l’animal facultative. Ces remèdes favorisent l’équilibre propre à chaque espèce, race ou individu, et ne peuvent en aucun cas opérer une « chirurgie émotionnelle ». Par contre, lorsque les caractéristiques propres à l’espèce vont trop loin, ou lorsque l’individu expérimente des émotions négatives qui ne servent plus sa survie mais la mettent en cause, la florathérapie permet de ramener l’équilibre et la juste mesure.
Les limites On ne demande pas aux élixirs floraux de réduire une fracture et de remplacer le plâtrage ! Une fracture est un problème physique, appelant une action physique précise. Ceci paraît évident à tous, mais lorsqu’il est question d’animaux, il est fréquent que l’on trouve des attentes tout aussi irréalistes.
Il n’est pas rare que l’on me contacte pour me demander comment faire pour calmer -grâce à des élixirs floraux- un chat en chaleur, comment faire pour qu’il ne sorte pas car il risque de se faire écraser, etc. Compter sur les élixirs floraux pour régler un tel problème serait aussi illusoire que d’attendre d’une fracture qu’elle se réduise toute seule ! Les élixirs floraux n’ont pas la capacité de modifier ce que la nature a prévu, et ils n’ont d’ailleurs pas vocation à le faire. Les animaux sont, beaucoup plus que l’être humain, assujettis aux lois de leur propre espèce, et si l’on veut intervenir sur celles-ci, il faut faire appel à des actes plus "autoritaires" que les élixirs floraux.
Ces limites étant clairement posées, il reste que les élixirs floraux sont des remèdes efficaces et dénués de toute nocivité, permettant d’harmoniser le caractère de l’animal, de lui permettre de surmonter des chocs, etc.
Son altesse le Chat : WATER VIOLET, CLEMATIS ET MIMULUS Le chat s’est taillé une solide réputation dans au moins trois secteurs : le sommeil, l’indépendance et le plaisir de vivre un quotidien confortable.
Si la tendance « sommeil » dépasse les bornes, on a un chat qui dort le jour ET la nuit, ne mettant jamais le nez dehors ! C’est un chat « Clematis » : rêveur, distrait, somnolent, absent... La prise de Clematis lui permettra de continuer à se livrer à son « sport » favori la plupart du temps, ce qu’il est bien censé faire, mais en lui redonnant le goût d’aller chasser ou s’amuser quelques heures ici ou là.
S’il est excessivement distant, vaguement condescendant et pas du tout câlin, donnant l’impression de tout savoir et de ne pas vouloir se mêler à la « valetaille », donnons-lui « Water Violet » qui le rendra plus... « humain » et accessible. Attention toutefois : certains chats de race ont ce profil, qui ne pourra probablement pas être modifié, ou seulement très partiellement.
Si c’est au contraire un mini-fauve, menant « une vie de chat de gouttière », indomptable, hyperactif, éventuellement très calin malgré tout, mais impossible à enfermer, avec peut-être des accès de « folie » en nombre excessif, l’opposé exact en somme de Clematis... il bénéficiera de la prise de Chamomile. [2]. Notons bien que si notre chat voit sa sauvagerie ramenée à de justes proportions, nous n’en ferons jamais un chat d’intérieur. Les élixirs floraux donnent la « juste mesure », sur la base de ce que l’individu est censé être, en évitant les débordements. L’animal habituellement calme qui devient hyperactif bénéficiera par contre pleinement de la prise de cet élixir.
Le chien : un comportement de meute « Ils sont comme chien et chat » dit-on de deux personnes dont les caractères sont opposés, voire incompatibles. Tonique, expansif, exubérant, le chien est aux antipodes du chat. L’harmonisation de son tempérament de base devra tenir compte de deux facteurs essentiels. Tout d’abord, la diversité des races canines : certaines ne sont pas du tout aussi extraverties et pourront bénéficier des conseils donnés à propos du chat. Ensuite, le comportement de meute, profondément ancré chez le chien : si l’on fait preuve d’imprécision dans son éducation, il en déduit tout naturellement qu’il est le chef de meute et se conduit ou essaie de se conduire en conséquence, ce qui est évidemment invivable pour la maisonnée, et éventuellement pour l’animal lui-même.
Les fleurs de Bach ne remplacent pas le dressage Les fleurs de Bach ne pourront en aucune façon pallier à un tel laxisme, et ce n’est pas leur fonction : elles peuvent aider l’enfant en difficulté scolaire, mais ne le dispenseront pas d’aller en classe ! Ce point est crucial, et on devra toujours le garder présent à l’esprit dans ce qui suit. Le chien a besoin de signes bien précis lui indiquant sa place et son rôle, et qui ne s’improvisent pas : c’est au maître de faire tout d’abord cet apprentissage. On trouvera ces connaissances dans des ouvrages spécialisés ou auprès des professionnels, et le présent article les suppose intégrées [3]. Par contre, l’animal récalcitrant à une éducation pourtant rigoureuse pourra bénéficier d’un traitement floral.
Pour le chien trop "bavard" : HEATHER Plus que le chat, le chien peut manifester de grandes différences de comportement selon sa race. Certaines races sont placides et peu sonores, mais néanmoins, le chien a globalement tendance à « s’exprimer » beaucoup plus que le chat. Si cette tendance, tout à fait naturelle, en vient à devenir excessive, on aura alors à faire à un chien « Heather ». L’individu « Heather » centralise l’attention et veut qu’on l’écoute. Quand c’est un humain, il parle, parle, parle... quand c’est un chien, il aboie, constamment, y compris sans raison.
Pour le chien rebelle : HOLLY ET VINE Le chien excessivement agressif bénéficiera de la prise de « Holly », indiqué pour réharmoniser toutes les émotions violentes : haine, jalousie seront régulées par la prise de cet élixir. S’il est difficile à dresser, il sera du ressort de « Vine », indiqué pour les individus autoritaires, qui veulent constamment diriger leur entourage.
Contre l’excès d’impatience Tendu comme une arbalète, notre canidé favori a à peine entendu « ...promener » qu’il est déjà prêt à pulvériser la porte ! S’il ne démarrait pas au quart de tour ce ne serait pas un chien, et les fleurs de Bach n’en feront pas un chat... mais il y a des degrés, et si vraiment son impatience dépasse les bornes, donnons-lui... « Impatiens »... qui, comme son nom l’indique, soigne l’impatience.
Le cheval : tremble, carcasse ! Crinière frémissante, le cheval hume la brise et tout à coup, lâchant un hennissement, il part comme une flèche. Qu’a-t-il vu ou entendu qui le mette dans un tel état ? Il semble toujours en éveil, prêt à réagir à quelque chose d’invisible, comme si le moindre souffle d’air le faisait trembler de peur... Comme « Aspen », c’est-à-dire le Tremble, arbre bien nommé puisque le moindre souffle d’air agite et fait bruire ses feuilles « hyper anxieuses » qui s’inquiètent sans raison. Nous ne ferons pas du cheval un mollusque, mais là encore il y a des degrés. La prise d’Aspen les aidera à devenir moins craintifs. Cet élixir convient d’ailleurs également au chien ou au chat qui ont peur sans raison. On peut valablement, pour beaucoup de chevaux, prescrire un complexe Aspen / Mimulus / Impatiens.
Situations et comportements fréquents
Certaines situations et certains comportements sont très caractéristiques des animaux de compagnie, avec des particularités propres à chaque espèce : il est fréquent de voir des chats ou des chiens abandonnés lors des départs en vacances. D’autre part l’animal, comparé à l’être humain, est plus en prise avec des « émotions de base » très tranchées comme la colère ou la peur.
Faisons un tour d’horizon des problèmes les plus fréquemment rencontrés.
l’animal abandonné : « Star of Bethlehem » ou « remède d’urgence » contre le choc, « Chicory » pour lui éviter de devenir excessivement dépendant de ses nouveaux maîtres, Mimulus pour au contraire qu’il n’ait pas peur d’eux.
l’animal agressif : « Holly », indiqué également lorsqu’un nouvel animal ou un enfant arrive à la maison, ce qui implique un partage de territoire ou d’affection. Cet élixir désamorce en effet toutes les émotions violentes, non seulement la haine mais aussi la jalousie. On ne pourra pas supprimer la relation dominant/dominé à l’intérieur d’une espèce.
l’animal trop dépendant : Chicory.
l’animal et les parasites : « Crab Apple » l’aidera à faire peau ou poil neufs, mais une alimentation de bonne qualité est un facteur d’équilibre incontournable à ce niveau, ainsi que le recours au vétérinaire et l’apport de compléments alimentaires adaptés.
L’animal transplanté ou confié provisoirement à d’autres personnes : « Walnut » pour s’adapter au nouvel environnement, « Mimulus » contre la peur, « Star of Bethlehem » contre le choc.
Les chocs ou accidents divers seront du ressort du « remède d’urgence », composé de cinq fleurs qui fait cesser l’état de choc et aide au rétablissement, ce qui ne dispense évidemment pas des soins vétérinaires. Ce remède est également indiqué à chaque fois qu’un problème de santé surgit brutalement. Il est toujours intéressant d’essayer le remède d’urgence lorsque l’on ne sait pas quoi faire. On y trouvera fréquemment au moins une amélioration. En attendant la visite chez le vétérinaire, le chat qui se gratte l’oreille frénétiquement réagira souvent favorablement à quelques gouttes étalées derrière le pavillon et, s’il est de bonne composition, sur le pavillon et un peu à l’intérieur, mais attention : pas dans le conduit auditif.
La relation Homme - Animal : quand c’est le maître qui doit se soigner
CHICORY : l’amour destructeur Deux problèmes diamétralement opposés se rencontrent fréquemment dans le comportement de l’homme vis-à-vis de l’animal : le maître peut être excessivement possessif, ne laissant pas l’animal vivre sa vie, ou être au contraire excessivement préoccupé du bien-être de celui-ci. On retrouve le premier comportement chez les parents qui manifestent vis-à-vis de l’enfant un amour apparemment débordant, mais en fait très égoïste et captateur (« après tout ce que j’ai fait pour toi... ») : c’est le profil « Chicory », dont l’amour béant est un puits sans fond jamais comblé et très destructeur. La prise de cet élixir aidera le maître à accepter, tout simplement, que l’animal... n’est pas un être humain. Il a un fonctionnement et des besoins spécifiques à chaque espèce et qui doivent être impérativement connus et reconnus. Il n’est pas la simple projection des attentes et désirs de son maître.
RED CHESTNUT : la mère poule A l’inverse, la « mère poule » s’inquiète et s’auto détruit à la moindre anicroche, le plus petit événement prenant des proportions inquiétantes : et s’il était gravement malade ? C’est alors « Red Chestnut » qui est indiqué.
Excès ou manque d’autorité : VINE ET CENTAURY Le maître de type « Centaury » ne sait pas dire « non » ou « stop », il se laisse déborder, exploiter : c’est l’animal qui commande le maître, on n’arrive pas à lui fixer de limites. Au contraire, le maître de type « Vine » est excessivement autoritaire, le verbe haut, tout le monde doit lui obéir, constamment, en toutes choses.
L’animal comme révélateur Tous ces problèmes vécus par l’être humain dans son rapport avec l’animal de compagnie seront fréquemment l’expression de problèmes plus globaux. L’animal sera alors le révélateur d’une tendance pathologique chez le maître, à moins qu’il ne se produise une inversion entre vie publique et vie privée, ce qui est très courant également. On trouve par exemple le maître qui souffre d’un excès d’affirmation à l’extérieur, et qui compense ce déséquilibre habituel par un comportement exactement inverse à la maison où il devient le « domestique » de son animal favori.
Lorsque les problèmes émotionnels du maître sont suffisamment aigus et prolongés, l’animal lui-même pourra en être affecté profondément dans sa vie émotionnelle, jusqu’à vivre des types de déséquilibres normalement réservés à l’humain.
« Tel chien, tel maître » ... Ou l’animal comme support de névrose Ce proverbe populaire se vérifie fréquemment, et pas seulement chez le chien. L’animal livré à lui-même a plutôt des émotions « utiles » : il répond à des besoins vitaux, ne se met pas en conflit avec lui-même (pas de névrose), ne pousse pas le conflit avec autrui au-delà de la stricte nécessité (pas de tendance caractérielle), ne réfléchit pas sur la comète... L’animal sauvage a des émotions, mais elles sont simples, en relation directe avec des situations fondamentales : amitié, faim, agression, reproduction... Beaucoup de complications humaines lui sont donc épargnées. La domestication réintroduit le cas échéant ces complications, par un phénomène de projection que l’on peut souvent constater de façon frappante, en positif comme en négatif : le maître calme qui a un berger allemand placide, le maître agressif qui a un mini chien prêt à manger tout le monde sont des exemples certes caricaturaux mais que nous avons tous eu l’occasion de rencontrer. Il ne faut certes pas tomber dans une psychologisation outrancière de la relation homme-animal : celui-ci a aussi un caractère inné, mais indéniablement les phénomènes de projection existent, les deux facteurs se conjuguant dans des proportions variables.
L’animal thérapeute Heureusement l’animal ne pose pas que des problèmes, et ne fait pas qu’intégrer les déséquilibres de l’humain de service. Lorsque tout se passe au moins à peu près bien, il garde son équilibre et se révèle alors thérapeute hors pair, doté de précieuses qualités : amour inconditionnel, innocence, et surtout une infinie capacité à vivre l’instant présent. Qualité irremplaçable à notre époque hyper-cérébralisée ! Remède fiable à la solitude, au manque d’affection, aux excès pathologiques de réflexion, aux stress de toutes sortes, l’animal domestique symbolise et rétablit concrètement ce rapport avec la nature que nous perdons trop souvent. Contre l’anxiété, le chat est un « remède » à l’efficacité prouvée. Il interviendra aussi très favorablement dans des symptômes tels que les colites et dans diverses sortes de douleurs, et ira souvent spontanément se lover sur la personne et la zone malades. Pour les hyperactifs, rien de tel qu’un chat pour apprendre à ne rien faire. Le chien, avec son comportement en forme d’éclat de rire, est un auxiliaire incomparable pour réapprendre à sortir, voir du monde, aller spontanément vers l’autre. Il aide l’introverti à sortir de sa coquille et à nouer des contacts. Le cheval, symbole de la puissance musculaire mise au service des grands espaces, est à lui seul une école de maîtrise et de dépassement de soi. Certes l’équitation, pour différentes raisons, n’est pas une pratique accessible à tous. Mais le simple contact régulier avec le cheval permettra aux individus aspirant à plus de plénitude d’apprendre à dominer et intégrer leurs impulsions pour en faire un tout coordonné en vue d’un but distant ou élevé. Seul bémol à cette « thérapie par l’animal » : on choisit souvent le semblable plutôt que le complémentaire. Heureusement, même ainsi, c’est déjà une puissante source d’équilibre.
Dans le rapport entre l’animal et l’homme, les fleurs de Bach amènent aux deux parties un équilibre de bon aloi, d’où puisse découler une relation fructueuse. Les potentialités de la thérapie florale sont donc nombreuses et se situent à plusieurs niveaux. De multiples possibilités n’ont pas été abordées ici, en particulier le développement de la communication avec l’animal, en nous et hors de nous. En effet, si l’on pousse la réflexion, le rapport homme/animal de compagnie repose en fin de compte sur ce principe : chaque animal nous renvoie à une partie de nous-même avec laquelle nous pouvons renouer le contact.
© Jacques David. Cet article est soumis aux lois sur la propriété intellectuelle. Pour toute reproduction, contacter l’auteur (voir fiche auteur en haut de la marge de gauche). Logo fleur déposé auprès de l’INPI.
[1] Biocontact - BP 8 - 81601 GAILLAC cedex.
[2] Elixir de la FES, Flower Essence Society.
[3] La même remarque vaut pour le chat : son mode de fonctionnement doit être connu et compris par le maître, faute de quoi il en résulte nécessairement des déséquilibres pour l’animal.
Les Fleurs de Bach ont une action tout en
douceur. Mais étant donné qu’elles sont con-
servées dans de l’alcool, elles doivent toujours
être administrées diluées. Faites vous conseiller
par votre vétérinaire si votre animal est allergique
à l’alcool ou s’il doit prendre des médicaments
qui ne sont pas compatibles avec l’alcool.
Faites toujours appel à un vétérinaire qualifié si
votre animal est malade ou s’il présente des modi-
fications subites de comportement.
TRAITEMENT VETERINAIRE
DOSAGE
Vous trouverez des ouvrages qui vous aideront à
choisir correctement les Concentrés de Fleurs de
Bachdans toutes les librairies bien achalandées.
Méthode du verre d’eau: verser deux gouttes du
concentré souhaité (quatre gouttes de Rescue)
dans l’auge.
Pour les animaux de grande taille, comme par
exemple les chevaux, verser cinq gouttes (dix
gouttes de Rescue) dans l’auge.
Flacons de traitement: en cas d’utilisation pro-
longée ou si votre animal ne boit pas suffisam-
ment, préparez une bouteille pour la prise du con-
centré. Pour ce faire, verser deux gouttes de
chaque concentré respectif* (sept au maximum)
dans une bouteille de 30 ml et remplissez-la
ensuite d’eau minérale plate. Donnez-en au moins
quatre fois par jour à votre animal. Le dosage est
identique pour les petits et les grands animaux.
* de Rescue: 4 gouttes
de RescueSpray: actionner 2 fois le mécanisme
vaporisateur
Utilisation:
• Verser la dose directement dans la gueule de
l’animal en utilisant la pipette.
• Appliquer les gouttes sur le nez de l’animal pour
qu’il puisse les lécher.
• Appliquer les gouttes sur les pattes ou les
oreilles de l’animal; elles sont ensuite absorbées
par la peau.
Les Concentrés de Fleurs de Bach peuvent être
utilisées tant que vous avez l’impression que votre
animal en a besoin.
DONNEZ LA PAROLE AUX ANIMAUX
Différences morphologiques am staff/ pit/ staffies
Différences morphologiques am staff/ pit/ staffies
Les qualités d''un bon maître
Les qualités d''un bon maître
Vous savez ce que vous voulez de votre compagnon et comment l'obtenir. Face à lui, vous ne jouez pas les bravaches car vous connaissez sa puissance et son courage.
Tout au contraire, vous connaissez vos limites et en tenez compte dans votre système éducatif.
Votre force physique importe relativement peu dans votre éducation, c'est votre volonté qui est prépondérante.
Equilibre et contrôle
Vous vous contrôlez tant dans vos relations avec votre entourage qu'avec votre compagnon, vous ne vouS autorisez pas de débordement d'humeur car c'est le signe d'un manque de contrôle de soi.
Vous n'utilisez pas les cris, les coups ou toute violence physique pour faire obéir votre chien car vous savez que ce genre d'attitude va l'exaspérer et le rendre vindicatif.
Conséquences
Vous avez des exigences précises mais raisonnables, vous êtes capable de les appliquer à votre compagnon d'une façon calme, claire et compréhensible.
Vous ne changez pas d'avis d'un jour à l'autre sur les choses qui lui sont autorisés ou interdites.
Ténacité
Vous savez que l'éducation d'un chien doit se faire et se poursuivre durant toute sa vie et qu'il y aura des périodes d'opposition parfois dures de sa part, vous êtes décidé à ne pas baisser les bras et à vous "accrocher" .
Vous êtes aussi conscient du fait que le Fila est têtu et que vous devrez vous montrer plus têtu que lui mais de façon réfléchie et positive.
Compréhension
Vous avez bien compris que votre Fila est un chien particulier, vous savez aussi que son éducation sera faite d'énormément de nuances mais axée sur un contrôle en toutes circonstances.
Respect de sa nature
Votre Fila n'est ni un enfant ni un fauve, c'est un être totalement différent de vous, qui possède sa façon de s'exprimer, de penser, de vivre.
Vous êtes décidé à tout faire pour vous mettre à son niveau afin de mieux le comprendre et d'appréhender correctement ses réactions.
Juste, mesuré et sensé
Vous savez reconnaître ses bonnes actions et réactions et vous l'en félicitez. S'il fait quelque chose de "mal", vous savez quand et comment le corriger pour qu'il ne recommence plus.
Votre réprimande est toujours justifiée, proportionnelle à l'erreur commise, et contrôlée.
Les actes que vous lui demandez sont à sa portée tant au niveau de sa compréhension que de ses aptitudes physiques et de son âge.
Le Fila Brasileiro
Marie-Paule Daniels-Moulin
Editions de Vecchi
Les 10 commandements du bon maître.
Staffordshire Bull terrier Mag - Premier numéro - parution 5 Octobre
Staffordshire Bull Terrier Mag
Sommaire du mag
. Editorial Chris et Brian présentation de notre asso et de ce nouveau magazine.
. Traduction de l'article d'une éleveuse spécialiste du bleu (ACEBLUE - Australie) avec ouverture sur des questions auxquelles il sera répondu par cette même éleveuse dans le N° 2 (Janvier 2011).
. Traduction de la dernière interview de Joe Mallen.
. Les chroniques de Lucy - What's going on dans le monde du staffie.
. Rescue : Quels sont les types d'adoptions, notre coup de coeur (un titi à adopter). Ecrit par Békha
. Comportement et éducation écrit par Djazz
. Santé - le Shiatsu pour les chiens - trucs et astuces santé.
. Anecdotes - l'histoire de Buddy (pour illustrer l'article de Békha). Ecrit par Békha
. Evénements : La réunion staffie du 09 Octobre 2010
. Le coin des artistes
. Galeries photos - les photos de vos staffies, cette fois le thème est Humour, fun à gogo.
. Le courrier des lecteurs - réponses à vos questions. (les réponses pourront être apportées par des vétos, spécialistes ...).
. Annonces - Bon plans
. Dans le prochain numéro ? ... (petite mise en bouche ^^).